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Emilia-Romagna: Where to Stay, Eat, and Play

by Patrick Symmes | Published September 2009 | See more Condé Nast Traveler articles

Pearls on a necklace, the main cities of Emilia-Romagna are easily reachable by train. Parma, Modena, Bologna, and Rimini are strung along the rail line from Milan; Ferrara, the bicycle city, is just 25 minutes from Bologna even by local train; Ravenna is easy to reach as well. Most people fly into Milan's Malpensa airport. If you head into the city, use the airport train rather than a taxi, which costs more than $100. The Italian Tourist Board is particularly helpful and speedily answers questions about travel in Emilia-Romagna (italiantourism.com).

The country code for Italy is 39. Prices quoted are for September 2009.

LODGING
Nothing makes landing in Milan easier than a night in the chic center of town. The Antica Locanda dei Mercanti, where most rooms have balconies, is in the city's pedestrian-friendly center and has car rentals and trains close by (02-805-4080; doubles, $326-$520).

Almost any place in Emilia-Romagna is within a day's trip of any other; whether your base is central Bologna, a quiet outpost in a rural area, or urbane Ferrara, you'll still be able to range easily through the smaller gems like Modena, Parma, and Brisighella. In Bologna, the regional capital and an industrial hub, massive trade fairs can fill every hotel room in the city: Book in advance (and check dates to avoid, at biztradeshows.com/italy/bologna). In a former nunnery with vaulted rooms, the Convento dei Fiori di Seta is a charmer, but management was more interested in cultivating a bar scene than serving guests (051-272-039; doubles, $236-$409). In the medieval quarter and also charming, the small Hotel Corona d'Oro 1890 is a 14th-century house that retains its original facade, complete with rustic wooden columns (051-745-7611; doubles, $290-$502); its three sisters—Hotel Commercianti, Hotel Orologio, and Hotel Novecento—all in Bologna, also mix style and tradition at a similar price (jpmoser.com). In Parma, the marble-floored Park Hotel Toscanini is centrally located and offers free bikes (0521-289-141; doubles, $257).

Renting a property over the Internet can be risky (who can judge a house by a tiny photo?) but my experience with U.K.-based Owners Direct was superb; it has extensive listings in Italy and is searchable by region, including Emilia-Romagna.

Antica Corte Pallavicina, on the Po in Polesine Parmense, has six guest rooms in a restored medieval castle. The owners make celebrated cured meats and hold cooking classes in everything from making pasta to infusing liquors (0524-936-539; acpallavicina.com; doubles, $199-$270).

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Prices and other information were accurate at press time, but are subject to change. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.

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