Mumbai is an easy city to get lost in, though goodness knows there are guides aplenty. Most hotels rent chauffeured cars ($30 per day), or you can just hail a taxi: My female Mumbai friends routinely take cabs even late at night. Trains are for the truly adventurous or the foolhardy, but as experiences go, they're hard to beat. A former banker now with Mumbai Magic, Deepa Krishnan leads extremely informative customized tours (98-6770-7414; from $31). Less irreverent tours are given by Bombay Heritage Walks. Of particular note is the two-hour "Bombay Gothic' architecture jaunt (22-2369-0992; from $10 per person). Finally, for a visit to the Dharavi slums, contact Reality Tours & Travels (98-2082-2253; from $10). For more on this tour, visit cntraveler.com to read News Editor Kevin Doyle's account of his trip into Dharavi.

The country code for India is 91. Prices quoted are for October 2009.

Lodging

The granddaddy of them all, the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower was commissioned by industrialist Jamsetji Tata in the early 1900s when he was allegedly refused entrance into the now-defunct whites-only Watson's Hotel. The flagship property of the Taj group, it is architecturally stunning, with Belgian chandeliers and Goan artifacts. The Taj began reconstruction work directly after last November's bombings; most of its rooms, restaurants, and suites will reopen this December. The renovation will be complete in March 2010 (22-6665-3366; doubles, $226–$466). The  ITC Grand Central's midtown location makes it a favorite of visiting sports teams and therefore of gawkers. Its female-only floor, Eva, has a great selection of toiletries from Forest Essentials, a local brand (22-2410-1010; doubles, $490–$656).

In Juhu, balding Bollywood producers, aspiring starlets, and socialites do deals at the glitzy JW Marriott. The rooms are small, but the infinity pool has nice sunset views (22-6693-3000; doubles, $187–$343). With great vistas of the Arabian Sea and the lights of Marine Drive, The Oberoi—which, like the Taj, is also undergoing serious renovations—is a good choice for Nariman Point financiers. There's no date for its reopening yet, but when it does, check out the Tiffin Room; it's the place for power breakfasts (22-6632-5757). The InterContinental Marine Drive is a small high–design hotel with a great rooftop bar called Dome. Extras include a free welcome massage and free brownies (22-3987-9999; doubles, $298–$525). The posh Grand Hyatt houses wonderful contemporary Indian art and a good restaurant, China House (22-6676-1234; doubles, $184–$398; entrées, $14–$35). The eco-conscious should head to the Orchid, which combines luxury with genuine green credentials (22-616-4040; doubles, $370). Finally, the new Four Seasons has superb service and comfortable if cozy rooms. The two in–house restaurants are worth a visit (22-2481-8000; doubles, $276–$419; entrées, $12–$33).