Founded by the Nguyen Dynasty in the seventeenth century, taken over by the French in the nineteenth, the capital of South Vietnam from the 1950s to 1970s, Ho Chi Minh City bares traces of its varied history in its very name—all but Party elites still refer to it as Saigon—as well as in its architecture. While it might be tempting to zigzag through traffic on a motorcycle, accidents are common. A safer alternative: Hail one of the ubiquitous moto cabs, strap on a helmet (locals call the hated safety devices "rice cookers"), and leave the steering to the pros while you take in the sights. If you want to try to drive yourself, Saigon Scooter Centre rents Vespas and other makes (3848-7816; from $12 a day).

Another option: The specialists at Travel Indochina organize trips to Vietnam and Southeast Asia that include stops in Ho Chi Minh City. They can also arrange guides to take you on an efficient tour (866-459-6158; guides from $170 a day). Ho Chi Minh City is best from November through April, when the weather is fair, but is particularly festive during the Tet celebrations of late January and February.

The country and city code for Ho Chi Minh City is 84-8. Prices quoted are for October 2009.

LODGING

Although built in 2005, the 259-room Park Hyatt Saigon takes its design scheme from Vietnam's colonial history, with ceiling fans whirling above four-poster beds. In some rooms, the louvered windows reveal a view of the French-built opera house. By the outdoor pool, the waterfall drowns out the din of the traffic (3824-1234; doubles, $247–$450). The posh Caravelle Hotel marks its fiftieth anniversary this year. During the war, Western reporters frequented its famed rooftop bar. The decor has since been updated, and the surrounding views remain impressive. The District 1 location is well situated for shopping and museum hopping (3823-4999; doubles, $166–$216). The opulent Majestic Hotel has an older vintage—it dates back to the 1920s—and cultural bona fides: Graham Greene worked on a draft of The Quiet American here. If you can't score a room that faces the river, head to the rooftop bar for sunset cocktails and to watch the rush–hour ferries negotiate the Saigon River current (3829-5517; doubles, $170–$200).

DINING

The name of the Park Hyatt's signature restaurant, Square One, is a nod to its enviable real estate on Lam Son Square as well as to the open kitchen's back-to-basics approach: grilled Wagyu steaks and lobster seasoned with salt, pepper, and lime juice (entrées, $8–$52). Off the lobby, the casual Restaurant Opera turns out Italian classics. The creamy mushroom risotto is a standout (entrées, $7–$34). Near a former opium refinery by the opera house is Hoa Tuc; even though its name means "poppy," it's the scent of jasmine that hits you as you enter the garden. The appetizer sampler lets you try bite-size specialties from north, south, and central Vietnam (74 Hai Ba Trung St.; 3825-1676; entrées, $6–$25). Not far from Reunification Palace, Pho Hoa noodle shop is no less authentic for having an English menu. You may have to share a table, but don't let that keep you from tucking into a bowl (260C Pasteur St.; 3829-7943; pho, $1.50).