Japan, as all first-time travelers there can attest, can be difficult to navigate. My trip to Kyoto was arranged by the Tokyo-based Michi Travel Japan, which specializes in tailor-made luxury experiences. Although many companies offer geisha-oriented itineraries, I found Michi not only the most affordable but also the most flexible (and all of its staff speak fluent English). Customized geisha tours aren't cheap, but the experience is, of course, singular (81-3-5213-5040; michitravel .com; tours, $860–$1,050).

The country and city code for Kyoto is 81-75. Prices quoted are for October 2009.

Lodging

There are three Western-style hotels of note in Kyoto: The posh Hyatt Regency has simple functional rooms with kimono- fabric accents (541-1234; doubles, $260–$480); the 121-year-old Okura's sumptuous European interiors include a variety of restaurants serving everything from pasta to teppanyaki, or griddle-cooked food (211-5111; doubles, $420–$680); and a serene Japanese garden, hiking trails, and a "Philosopher's Walk" save the otherwise standard–issue Westin Miyako (771-7111; doubles, $185–$375). Among ryokans, or traditional inns, the Hiiragiya is considered the best, with spacious tatami rooms, en suite bathrooms, and fine kaiseki cuisine (221-1136; doubles, $368–$495 per person, including breakfast and dinner). Highly perfumed with citron, the Yuzuya has a public bath and considerate service (605-0000; doubles, $330–$513 per person, including breakfast and dinner). For an entirely different experience, the Iori Trust, a nonprofit preservation group, rents out traditional machiya, or shophouses, that have been restored and fitted with modern conveniences (352-0211; machiya, $63–$415 per person).

Dining

Kyoto has numerous Japanese specialty restaurants serving tempura, teppanyaki, hot pot, sushi, and kaiseki. Its yudofu (tofu with grated ginger and other garnishes) is famous, as are its soba (buckwheat) noodles. Most convenience stores carry bento boxes with reasonably priced food. Kaiseki is at the other end of the spectrum, consisting of elaborate multiple-course meals of seasonal ingredients that are beautifully presented.

Once a princely residence, the Yoshida Sanso is now a boutique inn serving incredible kaiseki (9–1 Yoshida Shimo-ooji-cho, Sakyo-ku; 771-6125; set menu, $175). Tempura Yoshikawa has amazingly light and flavorful morsels of deep-fried fish and vegetables (Tominokoji-dori Oike-sagaru, Nakagyo-ku; 221-5544; prix fixes, $60–$200). Hyotei, near the Nanzenji Temple, serves refined traditional dishes such as quail rice porridge, sashimi, grilled skewers, and bento lunches (35 Kusakawa-cho; 771–4116; set menus, $90–$200). In the atmospheric Gion district, Mikaku is famed for its teppanyaki made from the best Kobe beef in town (Nawate Dori, Shijo–agaru, Gion; 525–1129; set menu, $225). For inventive kaiseki with a hint of French flavor, try Giro Giro Hitoshina (420-7 Nanba-cho, Nishi Kiya-machi-dori; 343-7070; set menu, $175). Finally, Scorpione Kichiu blends Japanese ingredients into pizza recipes on a terrace overlooking the Kamo River (133-140-18 Saito-cho, Nishi ishigaki-dori; 354-9517; set menus, $58–$86).