Malaysia is more than one trip for any but the most ambitious traveler. Though only a little larger than New Mexico, the country is separated by the South China Sea into Peninsular Malaysia (to the west) and Malaysian Borneo (the larger area). Even for a lush tropical nation, it has remarkable variety and, of course, great natural beauty. We concentrate here on Peninsular Malaysia, a region with white beaches, verdant rain forests, rushing rivers, and a profusion of ethnic cuisines.

The country code for Malaysia is 60. Prices quoted are for October 2009.

Cameron Highlands

Kuala Lumpur

The capital has few interesting hotels—except for the Carcosa Seri Negara, the former British governor's home in the hills above the city. Take tea on the veranda, as ceiling fans cut through the humidity, and you get a sense of how the British ruled until their departure in 1957: from on high. The rooms have heavy European furniture, and the hallways are lined with portraits of the country's nine sultans, who now take turns as figurehead king (3-2145-9599; doubles, $295–$350). The Mandarin Oriental is centrally located and efficient, with modern rooms (3-2179-8818; doubles, $180-$370).

From Asian fusion eateries filled with English-speaking Chinese and Malay yuppies, to high-end European restaurants, to cheap open-air Indian and Chinese canteens, Kuala Lumpur has something for every taste. Bijan serves traditional spicy Malay sambal stew and fried prawns in a hip space with huge round lanterns above the bar (3 Jalan Ceylon; 3-2031-3575; entrées, $12–$70). Inside what was once the guild hall of the Selangor & Federal Territory Laundry Association, Old China Café is furnished with heavy wood tables with marble tops. The specialty is the nyonya fare of the Straits Chinese: laksa, a spicy coconut milk soup, and piee tee (top hats), crispy rice–flour snacks with minced chicken (11 Jalan Balai Polis; 3-2072-5915; entrées, $3–$11).