Think Geneva is a cold, stiff banker's haven? Not so: Its residents are too busy plunging into Lake Geneva and hiking the mountains to site inside counting (what's left of) their money. We present a weekend guide to the city

FRIDAY
4P.M. Check into your hotel. Looking for service that runs like an expensive Swiss watch? Stay at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues(41-22-908-7000; doubles, $756). For modern glam, book a Jacques Garcia-designed room at La Réserve (41-22-959-5959; doubles, $514–$887).
7 P.M. Dive into the laid-back local scene in the arts district of Plainpalais. Order a drink at the Café La Ferblanterie, a former ironmonger's shop turned student hangout, and people-watch to the strains of Tom Waits (8 rue de l'École de Médicine).
8:30 P.M. Stop by the chic Café des Bains, a bistro with an international wine list. In a cozy space filled with wooden tables and contemporary art, museum curators and writers mingle for hours over dishes like tuna seviche with celery and radish, and crushed meringues with raspberries and cream (26 rue des Bains; 41-22-321-5798; entrées, $25–$43).

SATURDAY
9 A.M. Geneva's true heart is the crescent-shaped Lac Geneva, and for most locals a perfect summer day means time on or near the water. Some like to start the weekend with a quick swim or a spin on water skis. Others simply grab a lakeside breakfast of coffee and Bircher muesli at Barbier-Mueller Museum, a small but internationally respected Old Town museum of primitive art from Africa, Asia, and Oceania. Exhibits include Indonesian jewels, ancient masks, and pre-Columbian art (1-22-312-0270). 4:30 P.M. Combine coffee with a spot of shopping at L'Adresse, a stylish fashion boutique and café with Wi-Fi and magazines. In the summer, regulars scoop up chic casual designs by Isabel Marant and APC, then head to the rooftop terrace for a drink (32 rue du 31 Décembre).
8 P.M. At the trendy Asian fusion restaurant Le Comptoir, join the fun mix of locals at the long white communal table, or snag yourself a booth and share a plate of satay and crispy duck (9 rue de Richemont; 41-22-731-3237; entrées, $23–$28)

SUNDAY
NOON Still need convincing that Geneva is more than diplomatic? Brunch on Moroccan cuisine at Alhambar, a boho mélange of mirrors, velvet, and zebra-print lamp shades (10 rue de la Rôtisserie; 41-22-312-13-13; brunch, $19).
2:30 P.M.Take to the lake. Boat company CGN offers everything from gourmet dinner sailings catered by local two-Michelin-star chef Philippe Chevrier's kitchen team to cruises on elegant Belle É poque paddle steamers (41-848-811-848; $94 per person).
11 P.M. Nightlife goes avant-garde at L'Usine, a Plainpalais complex with a theater, bars, an art gallery, and concert space (4 Place des Voluntaires). Le Bateau is a floating venue for the latest DJs and musicians (Quai Gustave-Ador), while the designer-clad Euro crowd head to flashy La Bohème (36 blvd. Helvétique).