Unpretentious and underdeveloped—by Caribbean standards—St. Croix claims tourism as a small but growing part of the economy, meaning Crucians have yet to grow tired of their visitors. The island takes only a couple of hours to explore by car, and you should include a drive through the rain forest, on the roughest road your rental can handle. Sunset kayak trips in Salt River Bay cost $45 from both Virgin Kayak Tours, which sometimes hauls out its fast, foot-pedaled boats (340-778-0071), and Caribbean Adventure Tours (340-778-1522). Carambola Golf & Country Club's challenging course on Davis Bay is rarely crowded, even during holiday weeks (340-778-5638; greens fee, $90). Cane Bay Dive Shop is a popular scuba and snorkel outfit on the North Shore, with both beach and boat dives to the Wall, a 3,000-foot drop (340-773-9913; Wall dives, $90). Bilinda Charters is one of several sailboat outfits at Green Cay Marina (340-514-2270; four hours crewed or bareboat, $400).

The area code is 340. Prices quoted are for December 2009, which is high season.

Lodging

Half the suites at the stunning but casual Carambola Beach Resort are newly renovated. Its greatest asset—seclusion on beautiful Davis Bay—also means that there are just two restaurants and a poolside bar, and no cell phone service (340-778-3800; doubles, $175–$325). The 182-room Buccaneer resort is more like a country club, with three great beaches, lawns, and a golf course, as well as a terrific breakfast buffet (800-255-3881; doubles, $345–$815). Arawak Bay: The Inn at Salt River is a simple and spacious 14-room B&B (340-772-1684; doubles, $140). Rental villas can be found at gotostcroix.com.

Dining

In Christiansted, well-heeled locals favor the lovely courtyard at Kendrick's, where they dine on rack of lamb or tuna (21-32 Company St.; 773-9199; entrées, $27–$38). Around the corner, Restaurant Bacchus has a pool table and a bar and serves international food; try the great beet salad with pecans and Gorgonzola (Queen Cross St.; 692-9922; entrées, $20–$40). For lunch, the dark bar at the Bombay Club, with its vaulted brick ceiling, is a refuge from the sun (5A King St.; 773-1838; entrées, $14–$22).

One street behind Frederiksted's waterfront, Le St. Tropez serves French salads and seafood dishes from a blackboard menu (227 King St.; 772–3000; entrées, $17–$30).Facing the sea, Blue Moon dishes up spicy Cajun-and Cuban-influenced bistro fare and has live jazz some nights (7 Strand St.; 772-2222; entrées, $23–$29).

Shopping

Most visitors shop for two things on St. Croix: rum and silver. Inexpensive rums are available duty-free at the island's two Kmarts. Sonya Ltd., in Christiansted, created popular hook bracelets (1 Company St.; 877-766-9284; bracelets, $600–$2,300), a design adapted by other silversmiths, including Ib Designs (Company and Queen Cross Sts.; 773-4322; bracelets, $60–$1,025).