One of the Continent's secret offshore gems

Fanø is the best place to go wild in Denmark. This Nantucket-like island off the country's west coast teems with bird life, has miles of empty cycling paths, and offers broad beaches bathed in pewter-colored light. The place to stay is Denmark's oldest kro, or inn: the romantic Sønderho, a Relais & Châteaux property that's supremely snug and friendly. Opened in 1722 to serve thirsty smugglers, it has been in owner Birgit Sørensen's family for nine generations. (Her seafaring ancestors brought back the Delft tiles depicting biblical scenes, and salvaged the massive beams in the cozy, low-ceilinged dining room from a wrecked English ship.) Rooms, in several renovated fishermen's cottages, have bleached-wood floors, goose-down duvets, and tile bathrooms that have deep, old-fashioned tubs and separate showers. Dinner is surprisingly stylish, with appetizers such as quail eggs and entrées that include lobster soup (45-75-164009, fax -164385; doubles, $130–$170).

Local attractions include Sønderho Kirke, the sturdy eighteenth-century church known for its 14 votive ships, built to thank God or the Virgin for saving sailors" lives; the Hannes Hus museum, an evocative eighteenth-century sea captain's house; and the Fanø Golf Links, an 18-hole course that is a particular favorite of the links-loving gentry in nearby Hamburg (45-75-161400).