All islanders love their homelands, but nobody is doing more to prepare for the future than Bajans. With all their island has to offer, it's no wonder

Every tropical island will be faced with defending its coastline from the multiple effects of climate change, not just for ecological reasons but for economic ones: Vacationers want beaches. To that end, several beach hotels are recommended below, though there's plenty more to Barbados than its white strands.

In fact, many of its pleasures lie inland, in various parks and pre-serves, and more than a few of its natural wonders are underwater.

(The country code for Barbados is 246.)

Lodging and Dining

In St. Peter Parish, on the northern part of the west coast, Little Good Harbour is built on the remnants of a 17th-century fort that later became a storage site for sugar. The hotel's restaurant, the Fish Pot, sits atop much of the original foundation and incorporates a portion of the old fort walls into its own. The stretch of beach here is much quieter than anything you'll find farther south on this coast. Walk up the hill on a weekend night—or let the hotel have someone drive you—and partake of the neighborhood fish fry (439-3000; www.littlegoodharbourbarbados.com; doubles, $226–$302; entr??es, $19???$40).

The Atlantis Hotel, in Bathsheba, St. Joseph, is the perfect spot for lunch. The kitchen promises ABC—All Bajan Cuisine—but the food takes a backseat to the atmosphere and view: From an outside patio overlooking the Atlantic, you can sip, sup, and watch the fishing boats bring in the day's catch (433-9445; www.atlantisbarbados.com/dining.htm; doubles, $65–$135; prix fixe lunch, $17).

Set amid 15 lush acres of tropical woodlands and gardens in St. John, the Villa Nova is a pleasant respite from the frenetic beaches. Once a sugar plantation's great house (built in 1832), Villa Nova is a peaceful setting for lunch (only well-behaved children over 12 are welcome). There are working cane fields near the grounds, and the place oozes history—Churchill holidayed here, Queen Elizabeth II took tea at the plantation, and the place was once owned by British Prime Minister Anthony Eden, a.k.a. Lord Avon (433-1524; www.villanovabarbados.com; doubles, $360–$600; two- and three-course lunches, $30 and $43).

When the magnificent Fisher Pond Great House started serving planter's lunches last spring, it instantly became the Sunday noonish place to meet and greet for Barbados's old-line families. One of the most historic plantation houses in the Caribbean (built in 1635), it is filled with antiques and surrounded by 3.5 acres of gardens that produce 40 different types of hibiscus. Blossoms find their way to your table, which is set with vintage crystal and china. In the kitchen, 30 traditional recipes range from pepper pot and red snapper pâté to rarified sea eggs (sea urchin roe) and curried green bananas. There's also the famous Ocean View Rum Punch, which does indeed pack one (433-1754; planter's lunch, $33).

Reading

Among guidebooks, Explore Barbados tells you everything you need to know to get around the island (Manatee Press, $19), and the publisher helps you stay current with updates at www.savethemanatee.com.

The official site of the Barbados Tourism Authority, www.barbados.org, is a good, all-purpose clearinghouse, but the Barbados Travel Guide site, www.barbadosguide.com, is more focused and easier to navigate. The Barbados National Trust site, www.trust.funbarbados.com, covers places of environmental and historic importance.