Calling Los Angeles one big sprawl belies its true character: It is a multitude of mini metropolises stitched together in a crazy quilt that is by turns glitzy, exotic, and unexpectedly bucolic (who says nobody walks in L.A.?). Stacie Stukin fashions an insider's guide to 30 neighborhoods that will have you seeing stars—and then some.

Beverly Boulevard, La Brea Avenue, Melrose Avenue: Decor, Couture, and a Mean Chili Dog

For a true L.A. retail experience, shun the Beverly Center (and every other mall) and take a drive on Melrose Avenue. Better yet, defy convention, park the car, and walk. Start with a caffeine-and-sugar fix at Sweet Lady Jane the desserts are to die for (8360 Melrose Ave.; 323-653-7145). Then start strolling off the calories. Gemini G.E.L. Gallery handles pieces by Los Angeles's biggies—David Hockney and Frank Gehry among them (8365 Melrose Ave.; 323-651-0513). Vintage-couture aficionados—including Nicole Kidman, Jennifer Lopez, and Renée Zellweger—flock to Decades (82141/2 Melrose Ave.; 323-655-0223). Melrose Avenue also hosts Costume National (No. 8001; 323-655-8160), Madison (No. 8115; 323-651-3662), and Miu Miu (No. 8025; 323-651-0073). Moms-to-be can get an ego boost at Naissance, whose motto is "Stylish, sexy—and pregnant" (8250 Melrose Ave.; 323-653-8850). Agent Provocateur has lingerie that puts Viagra to shame (7961 Melrose Ave.; 323-653-0229).

Home furnishings hounds can wear themselves out at Russell Simpson Company, whose 2,100 square feet of '40s through '70s objets and furniture are a magnet for the city's top interior designers and their celebrity clientele (8121 Melrose Ave.; 323-651-3992). Pegaso International offers Italian eclecticism from the '20s through the '70s (8117 Melrose Ave.; 323-655-8117). And Jonathan Adler is pottery heaven (8125 Melrose Ave.; 800-657-7752).

Now, do what the locals do and drive east to La Brea and Pink's—a Los Angeles classic for more than 60 years that attracts all kinds, at all hours, with a divine chili dog (323-931-4223; dishes, $3-$5). If you're after a more sophisticated culinary experience, check out Charlie Chaplin's old office space at 624 South La Brea Avenue. It is home to both Campanile—which hosts a Thursday grilled-cheese night that takes the artisanal cheese craze to new heights (323-938-1447; entrées, $24-$38)—and La Brea Bakery, which brought designer breads to Los Angeles, including a sinful chocolate-cherry (323-939-6813). Attention, shoe fetishists: Don't miss Diavolina II, the last word in sexy pumps (334 S. La Brea Ave.; 323-936-5444).

Spare your new Lucite heels and head west on four wheels along Beverly Boulevard. There you'll come upon the eponymous boutique of one of L.A.'s seminal designers, Richard Tyler (7290 Beverly Blvd.; 323-931-9678), and El Coyote, which serves cheap, strong margaritas and passable Mexican fare to a rock "n" roll crowd (323-939-2255; entrées, $6-$9). Modernica is another contemporary-furniture mecca (7366 Beverly Blvd.; 323-933-0383), and Twentieth is square one for midcentury modern (8057 Beverly Blvd.; 323-904-1200).