Calling Los Angeles one big sprawl belies its true character: It is a multitude of mini metropolises stitched together in a crazy quilt that is by turns glitzy, exotic, and unexpectedly bucolic (who says nobody walks in L.A.?). Stacie Stukin fashions an insider's guide to 30 neighborhoods that will have you seeing stars—and then some.

South L.A.: Tunes, Rib Tips, and Watts Towers

South L.A. (a.k.a. the Harlem of the West) has famously been the backdrop for riots and gang violence, but jazz enthusiasts know that Central Avenue's clubs once hosted the likes of Louis Armstrong and the two Charlies (Mingus and Parker). Today, the cultural center of gravity has shifted to Leimert Park, where tidy homes line Degnan Boulevard. Lucy Florence Coffee House is a great place to hear live music over a slice of moist coconut cake (323-293-2395; entrées, $7-$20). Around the corner is Baby & Ricky's Inn, whose reputation as a blues joint has drawn the likes of Eric Clapton (4339 Leimert Blvd.; 323-295-9112). For some of the best barbecue in town, carry out some rib tips or chicken from Philip's BBQ (323-292-7613; dishes, $8-$13). Visit Eso Won Books, where L.A.'s African-American intelligentsia gather for readings, lectures, and aisle browsing (3655 S. La Brea Ave.; 323-294-0324). And by all means take in the recently renovated Watts Towers, Simon Rodia's Gaudi-esque folk art masterpiece that took 30 years to build, along with the ever-changing exhibitions at the adjacent arts center (213-847-4646; www.wattstowers.net). On your way out of the area, swing through West Adams (Adams Blvd. between Crenshaw and Figueroa Blvds.), where historic-preservation sites include bungalows and Victorian homes once owned by such prominent African-Americans as Hattie McDaniel, the first black woman to win an Academy Award (2657 S. Van Buren Pl.).