There's only one word for time spent on Capri and that's sybaritic. And all good sybarites agree that long walks and climbs on the island's winding pathways tend to heighten the pleasures of the hotel pool and its adjacent bar. A good walking map is an absolute necessity, as is a guidebook that tells you what you're looking at (see 'Reading,' below). The Villa Jovis walk is demanding but well worth the effort: Follow the signs on the corner walls (you have to watch for them). To see the island's lush flora, walk along the Via Tragara from the Via Camarelle, the high-fashion street, to the lookout point in front of the Hotel Punta Tragara. For a town walk, stroll the Via Botteghe, filled with grocery stores, boutiques, and wine shops; to extend this journey, take the Via Matermania past the restaurant Le Grotelle to the belvedere at the Matermania Grotto. Then descend 600 steps, take the path to the staircase side of the Casa Malaparte, and swing around the Via Pizzolungo back to town. The Villa Damecuta, a romantic ruin by the sea, is best reached from Anacapri (the booklet Guide to the Ancient Monuments—see 'Reading'—has directions, but follow the map starting at the Via Boffe).

The country and city code for Capri and Naples is 39-081. Rates quoted are for the current month, which is high season. The U.S. consulate is on the Piazza della Repubblica in Naples (583-8111; usembassy.it/naples).

Lodging

If you ever needed a reason to go upscale on hotels, Capri is that reason. The Villa Brunella is small and intimate, the staff are extremely attentive, and the owner serves as the concierge and will find you anything you need on the island. Ask for a room with a terrace and a sea view. The restaurant more than deserves a visit, even if you aren't staying here (837-0122; villabrunella.it doubles, $230-$350; v). The 30-room La Scalinatella has a near-perfect ratio of intimacy to marble and is the choice of many longtime Capriophiles (837-0633; scalinatella.com doubles, $530).

High on Anacapri, with terraces overlooking the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius, the Hotel San Michele di Anacapri is an excellent buy, and breakfast is included (837-1427, fax -1420; doubles, $174- $206; v). The five-star Capri Palace, on the other hand, is at the top of the class in Anacapri (978-0111; capri-palace.com doubles, $295-$480).

Dining

Capri has an elevated reputation for dining, and the standard is indeed unbelievably high. The island is essentially a piece of Naples that drifted out to sea, so the cuisine is Neapolitan, with a few local specialties. For an appetizer, there's always insalata caprese (tomato, basil, and mozzarella), or fried mozzarella, or the local cacciato cheese. And try the antipasto table, which has seafood salads galore (you'll be charged based on the size of your plate).