James Oglethorpe, the English gentleman who founded Savannah in 1733, knew precisely what he was doing. This new town in a new world would follow the grid pattern, but every two blocks there would be a leafy, green interruption in the form of a square garden, with houses built around it. Twenty-one of the original 24 squares remain today, and with their huge, shady trees, flowers, fountains, and monuments, they provide oases on any walking tour around this (almost) perfectly preserved urban Southern belle.

If you have time and want to escape to the beach, head for chichi Tybee Island (only about 20 minutes from downtown), where Sandra Bullock recently bought a house. Try down-to-earth Georges' of Tybee, where in an insulated beach cottage, Big George and Handsome George serve up a scrumptious contemporary menu, the best of which includes tuna steak, rack of lamb, banana cheesecake, and Georges' crab soup, a Savannah classic (912-786-9730; entrées, $18-$22).

The area code for Savannah is 912. Prices quoted are for the current month but don't tend to change with the seasons.

Lodging

The whole point of Savannah is to lose yourself in the past, so the best places to stay are the B&Bs that have been created in a number of old houses. Starting at the top (pricewise), The Ballastone is stunningly beautiful, with a walled courtyard, marble fireplaces, and superb food and service (236-1484; ballastone.com doubles, $215-$415). Both the Gastonian (232-2869; gastonian.com doubles, $215-$350), which has an especially pretty garden, and the Granite Steps (233-5380; granitesteps.com doubles, $275-$375) are slightly farther away from the center of the historic district but are still up there in terms of luxe and loveliness. The Eliza Thompson House is another good choice, bang in the middle of the district and reasonably priced (236-3620; elizathompsonhouse.com doubles, $169-$269). The William Kehoe House looks out over Columbia Square but has no garden of its own (232-1020; williamkehoehouse.com doubles, $155-$345). Joan's on Jones, which takes up the ground floor of a Victorian house on Jones Street, only has two suites, but if you book both, it can sleep a total of seven (234-3863; bbonline.com doubles, $145-$160; v).

If you want to stay in a 'real' hotel, the Marshall House, built in the 19th century, has rockers on its wrought iron balcony overlooking Broughton Street. It also has a great bar and 45 Bistro, a restaurant where you'll want to eat even if you don't happen to be staying at the hotel (644-7896; marshallhouse.com doubles, $159-$189; entrées, $15-$24; w).