Any visit should include an excursion to one of the outlying calanques, deep inlets between dramatic white cliffs that conceal tiny fishing villages and small, sheltered beaches. Most are within a 20-minute drive of the city center or can be reached by boat from the Vieux-Port marina. Or take a train from the Gare St-Charles to one of the nearby seaside towns like Ciotat or Cassis. The little railway stations, all terra-cotta and pink, have a cinematic feel reminiscent of Jean-Claude Ozon's recent film, Swimming Pool (check voyages-sncf.com for train schedules).

Rent a car or you'll spend quite a bit on taxis visiting Marseille's various neighborhoods and the beaches along the Corniche Président John F. Kennedy. If you want a guide to show you the main points of interest for a half or full day, contact Ann Menuhin (33-4-90-92-07-22; ann.menuhin@free.fr). As for the beaches, the private Plage des Catalans is closest to the town center ($2 entrance fee). If your trip falls toward the end of July, it will coincide with Marseille's annual Five Continents Jazz Festival. We saw Cassandra Wilson perform at night amid the gardens of the stunning 19th-century Palais Longchamp (go to jazzbreak.com and look under "Festivals").

The country and city code for Marseille is 33-4. Prices quoted are for the current month. The U.S. embassy is on the Place Varian Fry (91-54-92-00; www.amb-usa.fr).

Lodging
Along the Corniche Kennedy, about two miles from the center of town, is the recently rebuilt and renovated Sofitel Palm Beach—a sleek, spare, restfully minimalist structure with stone floors, glass walls, and cool colors. All 160 rooms, many with balconies, have heart-stoppingly beautiful sea views. A large pool terrace juts out into the Mediterranean, and the buffet breakfast is stupendous (91-16-19-00; H3485@accor-hotels.com; doubles, $230-$260; w). The Sofitel Marseille Vieux-Port is similarly upscale (although it looks more like a business hotel). It has equally gorgeous views—not of the open sea but of the bustling Vieux-Port area and the imposing Fort St-Jean, built by Louis XIV (91-15-59-24; H0542@accor-hotels.com; doubles, $213-$295; w).