Hotel Hana-Maui, Hana
Number of accommodations: 66
The Hotel Hana-Maui has always had an enviable location, bordering a black-rimmed, deep-green bluff in the mythical town of Hana. But now that it's been revived—by the team behind Big Sur's Post Ranch Inn, no less—there's simply no finer place to stay on this side of the island. Getting there requires nerves of steel, whether you take the winding two-lane road or a puddle jumper to Hana's small airport. That, and the fact that this is Maui's rainiest corner, keeps the sun-worshipping mobs away, leaving plenty of elbow room in the multicolored coves flanking Hana Bay (Red Sand Beach, for one, is a stunner). Alas, the strand at the hotel is too rocky to frolic on, but there are plenty of other worthwhile preoccupations, from morning yoga and a hot lava-stone massage to horseback riding and lolling by the stone-patioed swimming pool. Meals are excellent but pricey, and there are few other options, since the hotel's three restaurants are the only game in town. All 66 rooms are fabulous, but the Sea Ranch Cottages reign supreme. Closest to the water, palatial, and comfortable but not overdone, they're decorated in the vibrant earth tones of the local landscape and feature floor-to-ceiling windows with views of sea and ranch. Many have hot tubs on the supersized decks, but not one has a television set, so be prepared to revel in leaving the real world behind (808-248-8211; hotelhanamaui.com; doubles, $375-$845; wheelchair-accessible; beach; concierge; housekeeping; nature; restaurant; room service; spa; sports; swimming; view).

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MOLOKAI
Molokai has refreshingly few tourist trappings, thanks to the conservation-minded, largely native Hawaiian population. Much of the land is private, undeveloped, and fiercely protected, which means independent travelers can't explore as freely as they might like. The advantage to staying at the old Molokai Ranch (see Sheraton Molokai Lodge and Beach Village, below) is that guests are given access to the property's 64,000 rolling acres. And even nonguests can sign up for the ranch's guided horseback and mountain-bike trips, as well as its exceptionally fun kayaking and snorkeling expeditions. The island's most famous sight is also well worth a visit: the old leper colony, now a national park, on the Kalaupapa Peninsula (although the colony is still active, there is nothing to fear but fear itself).

Sheraton Molokai Lodge and Beach Village, Molokai
Number of accommodations: 62
With so few rooms on 64,000 acres of near-desolate ranchland, Molokai's best hotel is as laid-back and sparsely populated as the island itself. Not even a packed house can transcend the solitude and eerie beauty of the place. The cushiest quarters are in the lodge in the small plantation town of Maunaloa, on the island's arid west end (only the small KFC mars its rural character): Imagine a sparkling new ranch house where the living room has enormous picture windows and deep leather sofas, the bar has cowhide stools, and the guest rooms—just 22—are bright and spacious, with distressed-wood desks and benches, colorful quilts, and claw-foot tubs. Insist on Nos. 20 through 23 or No. 105, all of which have gigantic lanais overlooking the slate-tiled swimming pool and hilly pasture. Across from the lodge is a bike-rental shop and activities center that proffers every imaginable outdoor thrill, from cattle herding to stargazing. Alternatively, there are 40 seaside "tentalows" at Kaupoa Beach, a bumpy, 20-minute drive away but still within ranch boundaries. Each one is its own canvas-walled minicomplex, with two bedrooms, a tiny bathroom, an open-air shower, solar-powered lights, a picnic table, and a hammock. The tentalows may be more primitive than the lodge rooms, but they're still perfectly comfortable and clean—and just steps away from an isolated stretch of sand and tide pools. The ranch has two dining options: a casual open-air eatery on the beach and a dressier dining room in the lodge (808-660-2824; www.sheraton-molokai.com; doubles, $185-$460; wheelchair-accessible; beach; concierge; housekeeping; nature; restaurant; room service; spa; sports; swimming; value; view).