Your Own Private Hawaii
OAHU
The southern city of Honolulu is surprisingly urbane for the world's most remote capital: reservations-only restaurants, world-class museums, and a United Nations' worth of languages—all floating 2,400 miles from the nearest continent. Waikiki, where the vast majority of hotels are concentrated, is always ripe for a party, and, therefore, not everyone's idea of paradise. Still, it has a fine beach, and a one-hour drive will take you to the wonderfully wild North Shore, best known for its giant waves and surfer culture.
Turtle Bay Cottages, Kahuku
Number of accommodations: 42
Here on Oahu's North Shore lies the stuff of South Seas idylls: Mango trees grow in profusion, corn and pineapple fields line the road, and the only "action" is offshore, where winter waves rise 30 feet and an international cadre of surfers gather to ride them. But that doesn't mean you can't live the high life; in fact, with the Turtle Bay Cottages as an option, it would be a pity not to. Part of the 880-acre Turtle Bay Resort, the 42 cottages, clustered in groups of six around their namesake bay, underwent a multimillion-dollar renovation in 2002. The smallest is 740 square feet, but all feel expansive thanks to 15-foot floor-to-ceiling windows, sunken living rooms, and cavernous white-marble bathrooms. Outside, teak rocking chairs face a small stretch of manicured garden and the sea. Should the view render you indolent, simply call the round-the-clock valet, who will unpack your bags, fetch you a mai tai, or stock the minibar to your specifications—in addition to almost anything else you might require. And when you're again ready to face the world, the resort's amenities, including two golf courses, a new spa, and a lovely oceanfront bar, are but a short stroll away (808-293-8811; www.turtlebayresort.com; cottages, $550-$700; wheelchair-accessible; beach; concierge; housekeeping; restaurant; room service; spa; sports; swimming; view).
W Honolulu
Number of accommodations: 49
Small and classy is tough to find on rollicking Waikiki Beach. But look no further than the W, which inhabits the erstwhile circa 1961 Colony Surf Hotel. With a mere 49 rooms, it is by far the smallest of the W properties—a discreet outpost of cool, where the staff may be characteristically young, attractive, and clad in the requisite black, but where they're far too chatty and genuine to be anything but native islanders. Rooms are generously sized—especially Nos. 1025, 1125, and 1225, with balconies affording views of the sea in one direction and Diamond Head in the other. The decor is all white and teak, made homey by Balinese wood carvings and gold chenille throws. Workspaces come with dual phone jacks and high-speed Internet access, and a few rooms even have printers and fax machines. What you won't find are bathtubs or a swimming pool, so you'll have to confine your soaking to the turquoise-blue sea (a three-minute walk leads you to a small cove frequented by locals). At night, the second-floor Diamond Head Grill/Wonder Lounge snaps to life. Members of the armed services, honeymooners, and coeds from the nearby University of Hawaii all jostle around the copper bar or consort over artfully plated, vaguely Hawaiian dishes such as the Kalua pig quesadilla. Waikiki's busy strip is a ten-minute walk away, and in summer the Honolulu symphony orchestra gives free concerts in the band shell across the street in Kapiolani Park (808-922-1700; www.whotels.com; doubles, $280-$535; wheelchair-accessible; concierge; housekeeping; restaurant; room service; view).
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