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Strategies: Keeping It Real

by Krista Carothers | Published April 2004 | See more Condé Nast Traveler articles

Groups in remote areas are usually hosted in community centers or homes, but many participants stay in comfortable guesthouses and hotels. Volunteer vacations aren't cheap, since most of the trips' cost goes to support the projects. But unlike tours offered by museums and the like, these are tax deductible.

Eco-Lodges
In response to heightened awareness about the environment and a widespread desire to prevent overdevelopment, eco-lodges are growing in number from the Amazon to Australia. While many focus on conserving natural resources, others also establish strong ties to their communities and allow guests to experience indigenous cultures through special programs as well as casual interaction with the staff.

If you're looking for more than a superficial understanding of the lifestyles of local people—and a chance to converse with them in a meaningful way—be sure to seek out lodges where the community has a stake in the business.

In the Peruvian Amazon, for instance, the Posada Amazonas hires guides and other staff from the nearby village of Infierno, and 60 percent of the lodge's profits go to the local people. General Manager Kurt Holle says that the relationship between Posada Amazonas' staff and the visitors is key. "Guests experience the excitement of people who are making a future for themselves. They also learn what a typical weekend is like, and even what a funeral or a graduation is like—all in the middle of the Amazon."

Going Solo
For those who prefer the freedom of independent travel, finding your way to the authentic can be especially challenging. When starting your search, it's important that you ask the right questions and use the best resources. Here are some tips on how to get off the beaten tourist path wherever you go:


Visit in the off-season. There are fewer tourists, so attractions are less crowded and the locals are often less wary.

Walk or take public transportation. You'll get a better feel for a place if you move through it slowly, and you're more likely to stumble upon treasures that your guidebook doesn't mention. When my husband and I were walking through the hilly colonial section of Quito, Ecuador, not long ago, we discovered a fabulous cathedral that was festooned with hand-carved sloths, tortoises, iguanas, and boobies. It merited only a sentence in our guidebook but was a highlight of our trip.

Ride a bicycle. In rural areas, you'll cover a lot of ground and catch all the smells and sounds of the countryside. While staying at a hacienda in the Ecuadorean Andes, my husband and I borrowed bikes and pedaled through tiny villages and past rose farms, getting a glimpse of life there that we would otherwise never have had.

Read the local press. There's no better way to find out about the hottest new restaurants and the best gallery exhibitions than to pore over local newspapers and magazines. And guidebooks sold at your destination—especially those printed by small regional publishers—sometimes offer better coverage and insight than those you'll find in your local bookstore.

Hire a private guide and/or a driver. In many developing countries, booking a driver for a day costs less than what you'll pay for lunch in most world capitals. A good driver can be an excellent guide and a font of cultural information: A driver I hired on Chiloe Island in Chile a few years ago introduced me to the local custom of building small houses at the graves of the dead. For tips on how to find a good private guide, see "The Perrin Report."

Work with an expert agent. Someone who knows your destination intimately can send you off with a list of restaurants, attractions, and possibly even friends to contact. A good place to start your search is Finding the Inside Track.

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