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Word of Mouth: The Chain Gang

Among the latest Japanese imports: A fleet of restaurants to make even snobs feed a yen

Modeled after Europe's gourmet delis, Rock Field's are the largest producers of prepared foods in Japan. The first U.S. project, Delica RF-1, in San Francisco's Ferry Building, turns out sozai—small dishes such as spring rolls of salmon, spinach, and bell peppers (415-834-0344; www.delicarf1.com; dishes from $3).

Cream puff fans flock to Beard Papa's, bright and cheery spots featuring choux pastry filled with custard in flavors including Madagascar vanilla, dark chocolate, and green tea. The ethereal puffs became an instant hit when the chain, with 270 shops in Japan, blew into Manhattan last year (212-799-3770; www.muginohousa.com; puffs, $2). In the future, look for Papa in Chicago, Philadelphia, and Washington, D.C.

With more than 1,200 restaurants in Japan, Gyu-Kaku is known for yakiniku, or DIY charcoal grilling. The trendy masses have been heading to this hot spot since it arrived in Los Angeles to sip shochu cocktails while barbecuing cuts like skirt steak marinated in miso—the area has three locations. Gyu-Kaku has two restaurants in Hawaii and another in New York City, with outposts set to roll out in Chicago, San Diego, San Francisco, and Seattle (www.gyu-kaku.com; entrées, $5-$20).

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Published in December 2008. Prices and other information were accurate at press time, but are subject to change. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.
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