Some 1,700 islands and one highway, the Florida Keys deliver tropical pleasures from luxe to louche. Joyce Pendola finds fun, sun, and surprisingly good food

A T-shirt hanging in the No Name Pub on Big Pine Key reads, SAVE THE KEYS...BLOW THE BRIDGES. A bit over the top, perhaps, but only one of many indications that locals revere this fragile chain of reef-endowed islands. There are lots of reminders of the small contributions you can make to the preservation of the Keys, particularly in the state parks. Heeding them will serve to enhance the islands' pleasures: wildlife, parks, sunsets.

Route One is the sole road linking the Florida Keys, and since almost all of the hotels, restaurants, and shops are right on it, traffic can be a challenge, especially in peak season.

The area code for the Keys is 305. Prices quoted are for the current month. Individual keys are discussed in geographic order from northeast to southwest (MM indicates the mile marker).

Key Largo
It doesn't have the partylike vibe of Key West or the pricey upscale pampering of Islamorada, but there are enough choices to satisfy a range of preferences. The full-service Marriott Key Largo Bay Resort has a small boutiquey feel and a friendly bar overlooking the bay. Overheard at the pool: Heather is the best masseuse in the biz (MM 103.8; 453-0000; www.marriottkeylargo.com; doubles, $159-$219; wheelchair-accessible). The lovely, artsy, no-kids Kona Kai Resort & Gallery is a delicious hideaway (MM 97.8; 852-7200; konakairesort.com; doubles, $202-$211), while next door, the Bay Harbor Lodge and Coconut Bay Resort is a cozy alternative for half the price (852-5695; www.coconutbaykeylargo.com; doubles, $75-$135).

The Fish House Restaurant & Seafood Market remains a local favorite for lunch (MM 102.4; 451-4665; entrées, $17-$25) and delivers a more diverse dinner menu at Encore, next door (451-0650; entrées, $17-$25). Off the road, Calypso's Seafood Grille, set on a pretty little marina, has passable seafood but makes a mean Philly cheesesteak (MM 99.5; 451-0600; entrées, $13-$20). Especially good for breakfast, Harriette's has a cozy local atmosphere, friendly staff, and no dish over $10 (MM 95.7; 852-8689).

At John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, you can rent equipment for snorkeling ($28) or diving ($42) or hop on a glass-bottom boat ($21); guides deliver a good orientation for water sports throughout the Keys (MM 102.5; 451-6300; www.pennekamppark.com). Steve Harris at Bay Breeze Cruises gives private two-hour sunset sails in Blackwater Bay (942-3431; $235 for up to five people).