Driving in Turkey can be daunting even to seasoned motorists. Thanks to plodding cattle and errant sheep, heavy truck and tractor traffic, a dearth of decent road signs, and a plethora of potholes, I found that as a rule I should allow 30 percent more time between destinations than the mileage would suggest. Madcap local motorists are themselves a hazard: Try to restrict your driving to daylight hours. If your automotive insurance policy doesn't cover Turkey, buy the supplemental coverage available from most car-rental agencies. (Note that the areas discussed are arranged from north to south, beginning in Asia Minor and ending in Antalya, with inland detours along the way.)

Turkish law stipulates that all tourist guides be licensed; ignore the touts at ruins, and, if in doubt, ask to see a badge. Whether for English-speaking guides, specialized itineraries, or apartment rentals, I recommend Protravel International, which made most of my arrangements (800-227-1059; www.protravelinc.com). For more on Protravel, see "Wendy Perrin's World's Greatest Travel Specialists."

The country code for Turkey is 90. Prices quoted are for the current month, which is high season. The U.S. consulate is at 2 Kaplicalar Mevkii Sokak in Istanbul (212-335-9000; www.usconsulate-istanbul.org.tr).

ASIA MINOR
Canakkale makes a good overnight stop en route from Istanbul to "steep and windy Troy." The town's seaside Kolin Hotel has all the mod cons but no Turkish charm (286-218-0808; www.kolinhotel.com; doubles, $120-$140; entrées, $20-$25). From the hotel it's a 45-minute drive south to Troy, marked variously as Truva and Truja. The erudite guide and researcher Mustafa Askin frequents the Hisarlik Hotel and Restaurant, near the entrance to the ruins, and can make Troy come alive for you (542-243-9359; thetroyguide@hotmail.com; tours, $50).

In Bozcaada, Özcan Germiyanoglu's Rengigül Guesthouse is the choice of connoisseurs (286-697-8171; www.rengigul.com; doubles, $84-$110).

BERGAMA
Along the main Canakkale-Ayvacik road, and overlooking the Greek island of Lesbos, Assos is a clifftop town infused with sunlight and maritime breezes. It's well worth a stop for the view and the tranquility. The seaside Nazlihan Boutique Hotel, in Assos, is reached after a white-knuckle descent down a cobblestoned mountain road (286-721-7385; doubles, $106-$120).

In Bergama's old town, off the central square, Mehmet Saglam's Saglam Restaurant serves 70 varieties of kebab, including the house specialties: beyti kebab and kardelen kebab—respectively, lamb with parsley, pistachio, and hot spices and chicken and lamb with parsley, sesame, and mint (232-632-8897; entrées, $10-$18). You may find the affable guide Levent Sisman there sipping tea. If not, ask Mehmet to summon him (232-632-1097; dsnlevent@hotmail.com; tours, $50).