O Ya's kinmedai sashimi.
Photo: Boston Globe

Every May, Conde Nast Traveler releases its Hot List, a collection of the best new hotels, spas, restaurants, and nightspots. Check the Daily Traveler every day for a new post from this year's list.

Tucked into an alley in Boston's Leather District (because "next to the bus station" might scare away visitors), O Ya proves that a truly great meal may be worth your very last dime. The lengthy izakaya-style menu imaginatively pairs Japanese staples with flavors from around the world. Foie gras, seasoned with balsamic chocolate kabayaki and raisin cocoa pulp, is served with a sip of aged sake, while cucumber, avocado, carrot, and a ponzu vinaigrette bring a crunchy sweet-sour tang to smoky tea-brined chicken. In honor of the Beantown fixation on clam chowder, there's a version featuring tempura, potato, Kurobuta pork fat drizzle, and cracklings. The dark wood, soft lighting, and quietly expert servers in this renovated firehouse transform what could be an overly fussy experience into a personal seating at Babette's feast: You walk away delighted, even though your wallet is empty and the buses are rumbling past (dishes, $5-$160).

Further reading:
* Hot List 2008.
* More Boston nibbles.
* The Boston Globe's O Ya review.