The otherwise beautiful scene
of the snob.

by Mollie Chen

Last October I attended a farm dinner at Brentwood's Knoll Farm, where I was seated next to the president of a regional Slow Food convivium. Initially excited to share the experience with someone so obviously in love with the farm-to-table concept, I was quickly turned off by his, how do you say, pompous attitude. After about two courses of listening to the Italian expat go on about how Americans don't know anything about appreciating food and living properly, I picked up my glass of biodynamic wine and moved to the far end of the table.

Despite that unfortunate run-in with a Slow Food snob, I am little-kid excited about Slow Food Nation, a three-day bonanza happening in San Francisco over Labor Day weekend. It's more than just a big party with great food and top chefs. As Kim Severson points out in her thoughtful New York Times article this morning, Slow Food Nation is a chance for the organization to reinvigorate itself and expand its influence and appeal.

Since coming over to the United States a decade ago, the movement has been criticized for everything from its supposed lack of socioeconomic diversity to its stance against technology to its good old-fashioned elitism. Which is why all eyes are on the upcoming 50,000-person Bay Area party and its potential to catalyze a major good food movement. As for me, I'm planning on checking out some of my local Slow Food NYC events--perhaps August 6th's Greenmarket mixology class at Astor Center? Because there's no better way to win new converts than with tasty cocktails.