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August 20, 2008

Reisling-Filled Nights at Terroir

Pauil Grieco
Paul Grieco schools us all.

by Mollie Chen

Perhaps I haven't been going to the right kinds of events, but I have found that wine tastings are often high on posturing and low on fun. Not so with the "Summer of Riesling Festival" at Manhattan's Terroir.

Last night, the sliver of a wine bar hosted an intensive Alsatian wine tutorial led by general manager Paul Grieco. Grieco, who oversees the wine program at Terroir as well as at its sister restaurants Hearth and Insieme, may be the city's most exuberant (and most quotable) sommelier. The first clue that this was not going to be a typical tasting was the (temporary) gothic-style Riesling tattoo running along Grieco's arm; the second was the list of "safety tips" on the table, which included "Do not drink and drive or accept a ride from someone who claims that they don't like Riesling" and "Always carry enough money for another glass of Riesling."

The Toronto native was refreshingly candid as he walked us through eight different wines, explaining why he thinks Riesling is the most incredible grape on the planet. Along the way, I learned that Alsace is the driest region in France, that monks were responsible for preserving numerous grape varietals, and that the range of terroirs in Alsace is "off the hook." I also learned that Riesling doesn't have to be sweet--the best ones can be dry as a bone--and that winemaker Jean-Michel Deiss is a genius, but also an "absolute wack job." (Greico's words, not mine.)

As the class started to wind down, concluding with a rich onion tart, Grieco made one last pitch: "Do you realize we drink less Alsatian wine than the Flemish?," he asked. "A small region in Belgium consumes more Riesling than we do." Waving a glass of 1996 Hugel Vendange Tardive, he charged us to "Go out there and starting drinking more of these wines." And with that, we left, somewhat tipsily, armed with our motley souvenirs: a map of Alsace scribbled with arrows and notes like "volcanic = acidity" and "good rot," temporary Riesling tattoos, and an "I Was a Teenage Scheurebe Addict" sticker. Terroir will host one last Riesling event soon and plans to have more tastings this fall. Check out the schedule here.

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