Far from the hustle and bustle,
J.K. Place is a world unto itself.
Photo: Concierge.com

by Ondine Cohane

In Condé Nast Traveler's August issue, writer Mark Schatzker talks about circumventing the crowds that descend in high season on Capri and Amalfi by paddling the coast in a kayak. It's an ingenious way to avoid the chaos. When I was in Capri last week I tried to think of other ways to break away from the tourists who, especially during the day, can make the main towns feel more like a Vegas version of the island than the real thing.

One of the best things to do is to rent a moped (available by the main port and by the bus station in Capri), as most people stick to the same sights. By the time I got to the other side of Anacapri I could see where the locals lived and the beautiful scenery without a million cameras in my way. One of the best places I stopped at was the Lido di Faro, a beach club that's popular with residents, where you can swim and eat a great (and reasonable) lunch in a pretty, secluded cove.

The other way to escape is by foot. I ran into very few other walkers on the 45-minute trail to Villa Jovis, the spectacular hideaway of Emperor Tiberius, where he apparently took licentious behavior to a whole new level. No matter. The man had the best views in all Italy with the Amalfi coast, Naples, and the whole seafront up to Rome in his panorama. But apart from a very earnest group of German archeology students, I was on my own at one of Capri's must-sees.

Good timing is another key to having a more secluded experience. Marina Grande, the port where day trippers stream in from places on the mainland, grows quiet when the ferries stop running for the night. At dinner at the wonderfully designed J.K. Place, one of Condé Nast Traveler's Hot List properties this year, my husband and I were the only ones eating dinner on the terrace (the hotel has lots of little hideaways, so you don't have to sit with other people if you don't want to). With the cruise ships gone, the full moon rising above the sea, and just a few twinkling lights across from us, I understood why this place remains such a magnet despite its overwhelming popularity.

Further reading:
* Mark Schatzker kayaks from Vietri sul Mare to the isle of Capri
* Word of Mouth