A Tapas Discovery in Valencia
The comfy, pantrylike Montana.
Photo: Casa Montana
If you read the Daily Traveler this summer you already know that I have a fondness for tapas. My former favorite small-plates spot was Barcelona's Cal Pep, but this week I discovered its gastronomic rival, Casa Montana, just down the Mediterranean coast in Valencia's Cabañal neighborhood. Although new to me, this is no trendy newcomer. A city institution that's been around since 1836, Casa Montana is full of people whose idea of the holy grail is an unpretentious, atmospheric local spot that serves a great glass of wine and rounds of appetizers that highlight the best of the region's ingredients. (The real Holy Grail, by the way, is supposedly across town in Valencia's gorgeous Gothic cathedral.)
Casa Montana's main room is lined with huge wood wine barrels and chalkboards that announce the weekly wines available by the glass. The prices are very reasonable; an excellent Tempranillo-Syrah mix only set me back 1.80 euros. As we moved on to the second glass, my husband and I ordered a stream of wonderful tapas under the excellent tutelage of our bartender, Alejandro Garcia Llinares, who puts many sommeliers to shame.
Hearty protein-packed broad beans were followed by perfectly marinated anchovy filets, tiny artichoke hearts, pimentos stuffed with béchamel, late-season tomatoes marinated in oil with a touch of sea salt, olives from Seville, and acorn-fed Iberico ham in superslim slices (and that was just to start). Alejandro told us about his time as an exchange student in high school in the suburbs of Detroit, and we shared excitement over Barack Obama's victory. (I have never been treated with anything but respect as an American living in Europe, but this past week the reception grew even warmer--especially when people heard which way we voted!) He also told us that Gwyneth Paltrow and Mario Batali shot part of the new PBS series Spain--On the Road Again, at Casa Montana. So I am not the only one who thinks this place is one-of-a-kind. If you find yourself in that part of the world, go to Casa Montana, worship, eat, and drink. And be happy that such a place exists.
Recession special: Guests who book three consecutive nights at any Banyan Tree hotel or resort will now receive a complimentary 90-minute massage session, normally worth at least $100.
Further reading:
* Barcelona's Latest: My gastro-dream tour of the city
* The Fame in Spain: Many superstar architects are working in Spain, with spectacular results
* The world reacts to Obama's win
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide
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Mmm, sounds yummy! We winter in Spain, so love tapas and will have to check this out the next time we are in that area.
We have done tapa crawls all over Spain & I think the best has to be in San Sebastian!
Posted by: Soultravelers3 | November 10, 2008 at 10:51 AM
I haven't been to San Sebastian yet but it is my list. What was your favorite place for tapas there? On your next trip try to make it to Barcelona's Cal Pep too!
Posted by: ocohane | November 12, 2008 at 01:17 PM
Hola,
Sounds as a great Tapasbar in Valencia. Since 2008, we live in Valencia. Such a fantastic city. Good temperatures, sun, beautiful beaches, friendly people, super tapas.To get to know, besides the very good but touristic tapas bars, we show people around during our Tapastour. We go to the places where the valencian people normally go to. If you might be interested, just send us an e-mail: info@verrassendvalencia.nl
We do have a website with ,more information, but it is in Dutch, on a short term we will offer the information also in English!!
Saludos
Roos
http://www.verrassendvalencia.nl/
Posted by: doornroozje | October 02, 2009 at 08:22 AM