Conde Nast Traveler Concierge.com

« Seņor Coconut: Funky Latin-Electro Fun | Main | Japanese Slang and Bunny Jumping »

November 20, 2008

The Czech "Velvet Revolution" 19 Years Later

Michael Chertoff title=
John Bok in his kitchen.
Photo: Guy Martin

by Guy Martin

"Naturally, the police beat the hell out of us, but that's not the point, my boy!" shouts John Bok across the bar in his Prague neighborhood of Karlin. 

Couples snuggling in the corners to Louis Armstrong's "It's a Wonderful World" look up at the gray-bearded eccentric in his elegant black vest. It's 11 at night on the nineteenth anniversary of the demonstration that started what's known outside the Czech Republic as the Velvet Revolution. Bok, 63, the seminal and hilariously irascible Czech dissident, had what we can call a very good war as the former Soviet satrapies threw off communism. He was the prime architect of the demonstration on the Czech revolution's first day, November 17, 1989.   

"The police carried the long sticks," Bok says, "but it was a little ironic, you know? They trapped us between two cordons of bad boys in front of the Ministry of Justice. Get the joke? That's the Ministry of Justice. Then they marched in on us, cutting down people left and right. Like they were cutting hay."

Bok is explaining why the term coined by the French journalist from the Parisian daily Liberation--the adjectival modifier "velvet"--is the misnomer that most Czechs think it is. East Berlin's crash-the-Wall blitz on the night of November 9 was by far the more "velvety" event. The hapless East German border guards addressed their politely queuing burghers as "Dear Citizens" before allowing them through to West Berlin.

But the farther east we surf in 1989's history--meaning, the farther outside the ken of Western media that the revolutions occurred--the more ferocious those revolution days get. In Timisoara, Romania, hundreds were massacred by the Securitate, the Romanian security police, and the dictator Nicolai Ceausescu  was lynched by a mob incensed that the police had been given carte blanche to kill.

In Prague on the afternoon of November 17, 1989, the police strategy was a bit different, namely, to send out a few hundred officers with truncheons to crack as much demonstrator skull as they possibly could. If somebody died, well, that would just be something that they'd fix.

The "official" memorial that afternoon--the memorial that became the demonstration--had been called by university students. The assembly was sanctioned by the government because the event had been billed by the organizers in honor of Jan Opletal, a student who was killed 50 years earlier, on November 17, 1939. He was killed by the Nazis as part of a student demonstration protesting the Nazis' occupation of Prague.   

The students' theory was to hold a demonstration, of which the communists could not disapprove. For their part, the Milos Jakes regime wanted to pretend that they were Gorbachev-perestroika hangers-on. Everybody knew the demonstration was about current events. The Berlin Wall had fallen eight days earlier. 

As the candlelight vigil for Opletal at the Vysehrad cemetery--where Czech cultural and political heroes such as the composers Smetana and Dvorak and the philosopher Palacky are buried--wound down, Bok nicked the meeting by sheer personal force, exhorting the people to follow him to the center of Prague in protest.

An early signatory of Charter 77, the open letter of protest in 1977 that forged what became the Czech and Slovak political opposition, Bok had already withstood a decade of persecution and jailings. He knew what he had to do.

"Basically, I just ran around yelling at the people that it was time to take the message to the government," he laughs.; But, we know what one drop of water can do as a dam is about to break. Some ten thousand people followed Bok down the hill to the center of town and straight into the maw of the police. At the Ministry of Justice, about a mile and a half south of Prague's Old Town, the police cordons split the crowd, trapping several thousand and forcing another several thousand outside the cordons to the riverside. An hour later, they were able to sneak in to remount a protest in the town center, on National Avenue (Narodni Trida), before also being crushed and carted off by the police. Hundreds were arrested at both sites. 

Bok was with the thousands caught in the first wave of arrests inside the cordons at the Ministry of Justice.

"I had been doing some things for Olga [Havlova, or Mrs. Vaclav Havel] and Vaclav at their riverside flat," Bok says, "so I got picked up around four to go to the Opletal vigil. We did the candlelight thing, then got everybody to march down the hill. Bloody hell, when they got us trapped they were swinging. One dancer coming from rehearsal across the square was taken, even though she was not one of us; I pulled her away from the cops as they were beating her on the ground. Then we were all arrested and taken away in the little cars. I was interrogated and beaten, of course, because they knew me. I remember my body turning amazing colors in the days after, blue next to brown, next to green and yellow, but, I must say, it was only the normal beating, nothing special. This would be the night of the 17th in Ruzyne prison."

Firing the Communist regime's total desperation was the realization in that moment that, no matter how many truncheon-bearing centurions they sent out, they had lost. It had all gone too far; the weight of history was against them. Because of the violence of the crackdown on the 17th and the intense international outrage it engendered, the citizens of Prague were liberated to hit the streets without fear of such reprisals. The overwhelming 500,000-strong demonstrations on Wenceslas Square that come to mind when we think of November and December 1989 in Prague took place on that little bit of free ground won by the demonstrators on November 17.   

Which is why the 17th is now a national holiday in the Czech Republic.   

Bok was sprung from detainment on the 20th and went straight to Wenceslas Square, to Vaclav Havel's ground-breaking speech before a crowd of 200,000. During the blistering two-month-long run-up to the presidential election in December, Bok was a core security tactician at Havel's side, shuttling Havel to his back-channel meetings with the Communists as they negotiated how and when the Communists would abdicate.

Thirty-nine days later, on December 29, 1989, the non-velvet revolution had succeeded: Havel was elected president. During Havel's first term, Bok served as a sort of one-man truth commission in the dirtiest possible place, the Interior Ministry, where he was responsible for filtering out Communists, garden-variety sadists, torturers, and other human-rights violators. He now runs the Salamoun Society, a watchdog NGO monitoring mistrials and other abuses of rights within the Czech justice system.

"You know one funny thing after all these years," says Bok, an infamously detail-obsessed fixer. "I can't remember what we were working on that day. Was it the furnace? Something in the kitchen?; Anyway, I regret that I never got back to the Havel's flat to finish whatever it was."

Further Reading:
* Prague Rocks: Guy Martin loves the town

Comments

click to post a comment >
Airline news on the Daily Traveler
  • The Two Faces of Yemenia
  • Two New Airbus Emergencies
  • More on Clear
  • What is Wrong with the Dreamliner?
  • Boeing's Dreamliner Debacle
  • The Paris Air Show

  • July 2009 issue of Conde Nast Traveler is on the stands now
    Condé Nast Traveler for $1/issue

    About this blog
    The editors at Conde Nast Traveler answer questions and share travel secrets, tips, and dispatches

    Twitter: CNTraveler
    RSS: RSS Feed
    Email: Daily updates

    WEEKLY TOPICS
    RECENT COMMENTS


    UPDATES ON TWITTER

    TRAVEL BLOGS
    Featured in Alltop

    Prices and other information were accurate at press time, but are subject to change. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.

    EXPRESS SIGN-UP Sign up for one of our exciting panels and receive the latest news, travel offers, and event invitations from Condé Nast Traveler and our valued advertising partners.

    http://www.cntpromo.com/ex.asp

    My Concierge.com

    Advertisement

    Advertisement

    I understand and agree that registration on or use of this site constitutes agreement to its User Agreement, Privacy Policy, and Mobile Terms and Conditions.

    Subscribe to our free RSS feeds:

    Get the latest destinations picks, hot hotel lists, travel deals and blog posts automatically added to your newsreader or your personalized homepage.

    Learn More ›

    Special Advertisement

    Contests & Sweepstakes