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December 23, 2008

Not Your Godfather's Sicily

Chef Ciccio Sultano has made
Duomo one of the finest
restaurants in Sicily.

Photo: Rick Lew for
Condé Nast Traveler

Away from the island's familiar sweet spots, a new generation of Sicilians is reshaping its wine, food, and hotels. Here are five of Daily Traveler Ondine Cohane's top dining picks:

* Trapani's Cantina Siciliana, in the former Jewish quarter, this humble spot serves delicious pasta with swordfish and eggplant, and bruschetta with bottarga (36 Via Giudecca; 0923-28673; entrées, $11-$36)

* Ragusa Ibla's Duomo should be on any itinerary that takes you near Syracuse. In addition to Ciccio Sultano's innovative cooking, the wine list is impressive and a good introduction to the vintages of the region (31 Boccheri; 0932-651-265; entrées, $46-$55)

* Travelers with a sweet tooth shouldn't miss Caffé Sicilia, in Noto, known for its granita (125 Corso Vittorio Emanuele; 0931-835-013)

* La Conchiglietta, a simple trattoria on the waterfront in Marzamemi, has delicious spaghetti alle vongole and whole grilled fish (9 Via Regina Elena; 0931-841-191; entr&eaute;es, $31-$37)

* At Mount Etna, stop into Santa Venerina's Pasticceria Russo, a pastry shop that's been in the family since 1880, and try the fish-shaped marzipan candy (105 Via Vittorio Emanuele; 095-953-202)

To read more about the Sicilians who are lifting the art of fine living to new heights--and for more of the island's hot spots--pick up Condé Nast Traveler's January issue, on stands today.

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