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May 05, 2009

Buenos Aires: Where to Find Chocolate Con Churros

Photo: jonlk on Flickr
using Creative Commons

by Tara Kalmanson

Any Buenos Aires native will claim churros originated in Argentina, but some say the only thing Argentines added to the sugary Spanish snack is the gooey, caramel-like dulce de leche at the center. Still, saying "chocolate con churros" at any Argentine café will land you at least three sticks of crunchy fried dough and a cup of hot, melted-down dark-chocolate bars. No two experiences with chocolate con churros in Buenos Aires are alike, so you may have to try all three of our picks below. Happy tasting.

Classic: Café de los Angelitos, 2100 Rivadavia
Tourists and upper-middle class locals alike stop at Los Angelitos around 4 p.m. for coffee and dessert, but not many know this café has some of the best churros in the city. Ask for chocolate espeso con churros rellenos and you'll get a couple of dulce de leche-filled churros and melted dark chocolate in a cup with hot milk. Not in the mood for churros? Try the torta de ricotta, an Argentine version of cheesecake made with ricotta.

People-watching heaven: Café Tortoni, 825 Avenida de Mayo
When hip Uruguayans and Brazilians vacation in Argentina, they head for this mainstay in the center of Buenos Aires. Just because the joint is a little more polished (like a museum of 1950s tango-era eye candy) doesn't mean the churros are weaker--they're thicker than usual and extra crunchy. You'll pay more, but you'll get more.

Inexpensive and authentic: La Giralda, 1453 Corrientes
You might walk past this plain café before you notice it hidden behind a subway entrance, but dont judge by the (lack of) decor. La Giralda used to be an intellectual center during revolutionary times, and if you can handle bad service and worse English, you'll spend the afternoon snacking beside the locals: Buenos Aires natives stop in to warm up as winter approaches in the Southern Hemisphere. Ask for chocolate espejo con churros chocolates (or write it on a napkin and show the waiter) and you'll get a cup of heavy, dark hot chocolate and chocolate-covered churros for dunking.


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