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June 01, 2009

Cairo Gets Ready for Obama

Sultan Hassan Mosque
President Obama's Cairo visit will include a stop at Sultan Hassan Mosque (above), an architectural masterwork.
Photo: Susan Hack

by Susan Hack

Cairo is a city with an ancient history and a fatalistic attitude toward government. The Pyramids have been standing for 5,000 years. So what if you've been waiting five years to get that hole in the street fixed? And you think 27 years is a long time for one man, Hosni Mubarak, to be president? Why, that's just an eyeblink in the life of the Sphinx!

But Cairo's stasis and slumber have been shattered by the imminent arrival of President Obama, who is flying into the city on Thursday to deliver a major speech he says will be "about how the United States can change for the better its relationship with the Muslim world." According to Egyptian officials, Obama will spend about eight hours in the capital, meeting with the 81-year-old Mubarak at Kuba Palace, visiting the Sultan Hassan Mosque (a fourteenth-century masterpiece of Islamic architecture), making a much anticipated speech at Cairo University, and then touring the Pyramids in the company of Egypt's most famous archaeologist and international television personality, Dr. Zahi Hawass.

Obama's selection of Cairo as the place from which to address the world's 1.5 billion Muslims has energized and lent prestige to a city that has always considered itself the center of the Islamic and Arab world, yet whose influence has lately faded.

I drove around the city to gauge the hectic preparations. City workers were sweeping desert sand off the airport highway, replacing wind-torn Egyptian flags with new ones, repairing street lamps, and planting Cairo University with flowers (something that did not happen when the campus marked its centenary last year).

Obama T-Shirt

In the Khan al Khalili bazaar, freshly minted Obama merchandise was on display. King Tut's image, copied from the famous golden mask discovered by Howard Carter, is on nearly everything in the tourist bazaar, from shisha pipes to ashtrays to beach towels and coffee mugs. But I found the "Obama New Tutankhamon of the World" slogan (left, on a T-shirt) a little troubling. Yes, like King Tut, who became pharaoh at the age of ten, Obama is a youthful leader of a world power. But, remember, Tut left office--and this world--prematurely, dying 3,000 years ago under mysterious circumstances around the age of 19. A hole discovered at the base of his skull has led some forensic anthropologists to speculate that he was assassinated.

I wondered, could the Obama/Tut souvenirs contain a not-so-subtle warning to the American president? A warning that says, "You may be young and powerful, but you--or at least your honeymoon with the Islamic world--will be in big trouble if you fail to live up to your promises."

When I asked 25-year-old shopkeeper Hamada Hagar, proprietor of the Welcome souvenir shop, about the meaning of the T-shirt, he merely shrugged. "NBC ordered it," he said, referring to the American television network. "My sister works for them. CNN ordered ceramic plates with Obama's picture on it and 30 cartouches with 'Obama' written in hieroglyphics.

"You want one? I can have it ready from the factory around the corner in 30 minutes."

Leave it to the world's press--the Ministry of Information had 850 reporters on its Obama trip accreditation list as of last Sunday--to want souvenirs from their lightning trip to the "heart of civilization," as Egypt likes to call itself. (When I was working in Amman during the 1990 Gulf War, Jordanian souvenir sellers made a killing off Scud missile key chains and fake Rolexes whose faces featured the mugs of Yasser Arafat and Saddam Hussein.)

Meanwhile, 18 million Cairenes and 80 million Egyptians, more than half of whom are under 25, have great expectations of Obama, who since his election has pledged new momentum for the Israeli-Palestinian peace process, U.S. withdrawal from Iraq, better understanding between America and Muslims, and a better example within the United States of the democratic values U.S. foreign policy tries to promote worldwide.

Already 60 percent of Egyptians approve of Obama, and their generally negative views toward America are falling, according to a Brookings Institute poll of Arab opinion released on May 19. But whatever Obama says in Cairo this Thursday, Egyptians are waiting--some more patiently than others--to see words matched by actual deeds.

In the meantime, I'll keep you posted about whether those Obama T-shirts have legs.

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