The restaurant at the new Palazzina Grassi hotel in Venice is bound to be a hotspot.

by Ondine Cohane

Just back from Venice, where the big news is the opening of the Palazzina Grassi hotel this week. The place wasn't quite finished yet when I took the grand tour, but it was already clear that the property is going to a stylish and intimate addition to the city's hotel scene. The project marks designer Philippe Starck's first foray into Italy, and although there are plenty of modern, playful touches (like his signature oversize lamps and furniture), he used lots of local materials, too. You'll find handmade Murano glass and mirrors (there are about 298 on site, so you better like looking at yourself), Venetian plaster walls in reds and greens, and traditional terrazzo floors throughout the property's 24 rooms. (Those rooms are set out between two buildings dating from the 19th and 16th centuries, but the kick-ass suites are in the older structure overlooking the Grand Canal). In addition to a restaurant and bar that are open to the public, there will be a second bar area downstairs that's reserved for hotel guests only. Supposedly VIP Venetians will be invited there, too, as part of a members-only club--I bet it will become celeb central during the Film Festival and the Biennale.

One of the best aspects to the property is its neighborhood. Near Campo Santo Stefano, the hotel is also nestled behind the Palazzo Grassi, one of the city's best new contemporary art museums, and only a short walk to must-stops like San Marco, the Accademia, and the funky neighborhood of Dorsoduro.

Looking for somewhere to eat nearby? Grab a plate of delicious cicchetti, Venice's answer to tapas, and great wine by the glass at Bacaro da Fiore on Calle delle Botteghe.

Further reading:
* Show Stopper: An insider's Venice (CNT, December 2008)
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

A view from the top: Hidden Dragon's living room
Photo: Mark Sanders

by Ondine Cohane

Looking for a snowy retreat with plenty of pampering? I just got an email from Ashlee Benis about her new hideaway in Switzerland's 4-Valley region that seriously piqued my interest. Hidden Dragon, which opened a couple of months ago, is nestled in a forest away from the crowds but close to some of the region's best skiing with ski-in ski-out access to more than 92 runs linking resorts like Verbier, Thyon and Les Masses. Even more interesting, though, is how Benis's Eurasian background has impacted the design and ethos of the place: instead of a conventional chalet approach, she built the lodge using feng shui principles and included an Eastern-oriented spa with yoga and meditation rooms as well as traditional massage areas to soothe ski-weary muscles. Other nice touches include a hot tub overlooking the mountains, a state of the art wine cellar with an emphasis on Bordeaux vintages, and a screening room for cozy evening movies. It seems like the perfect spot to rent as a family or group of friends. Now I just have to figure out when I can make an escape there.

Looking for more Swiss insight? The November issue of Condé Nast Traveler includes a 16 page pull-out on the country with tips on cool spas, cutting edge architecture and the best ski spots.

Hidden Dragon's Meditation Room
Photo: Mark Sanders

"Long Run Destinations are business enterprises, mainly sustainable tourism destinations, committed to maximizing positive and minimizing negative impacts around the world," says the Long Run Web site. This one, Chumbe, is a tropical island situated 8 miles southwest of Zanzibar town, Tanzania.

by Ondine Cohane

Jochen Zeitz is one of the most successful CEOs in the world, and he didn't start running Puma until the ripe old age of 30. So, when he contacted me last year about creating a network of sustainable, socially conscious retreats--including one that he had already started to build in Kenya--I was extremely interested in learning more. I helped Zeitz narrow in on some places that I thought he should consider, like Indonesia's Nihiwatu, but it was clear that the guy had done his research. It was also clear that he was interested in more than a press release; he dismissed resorts that didn't truly help to better their communities.

Last week Zeitz officially launched his foundation with nine spots in Brazil, Tanzania and New Zealand, among other locations. His goal? To "provide and build sustainable, mostly tourism-driven enterprises, community development and cultural stewardship," and "projects that balance conservation, community, culture, and commerce...a model that shows how working toward ecosphere safety can be commercially viable." The new properties try to both protect endangered areas and promote cultural diversity and local stewardship. For a list of the retreats, go to thelongrun.com.

In both the articles I have read about Zeitz and the conversations I had with him, it is clear that he is a man who travels a great deal for work, and takes the time to learn about various issues and fault lines as he does so. I am very happy that his vision now has an outlet.

Further reading:
* The Zeitz Foundation Web site
* The Long Run destinations
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

The old-school vibe at Brooklyn's Henry Public

by Ondine Cohane

As you may have noticed from my Brooklyn's Own Little Italian Empire post, this former Brooklyn resident hasn't forgotten about her borough or its foodie scene. The latest must try on my list? Henry Public, the recent opening from friends Matt Dawson and Jen Albano who made Brooklyn Social my go-to stop in Carroll Gardens. The tasty panini and painstakingly made cocktails also made it my preferred place to recharge after a long-haul flight.

This new venture brings comfort food dishes like grass-fed hamburgers, turkey leg sandwiches and freshly shucked oysters together with another fab-sounding drinks list--the "Public Smash" with bourbon, mint, maple syrup and aromatic bitters, "Two-cents Fancy" with pear, tarragon honey, and champagne, and "Kings County Sour" with rye whiskey, lemon, sugar, egg white and port float, all sound like they could render decision making difficult. If you are around on the weekend, you can even stop in during the day for an egg sandwich, coffee, or better yet, another cocktail. I was already sold on the concept, but as luck would have it I had dinner this week with a woman who works at Saveur magazine (so good food cred) who went in on the restaurant's opening night. Her verdict: a solid thumb's up for both the food and the cozy 19th century-inspired decor. So if you are in the 'hood, head on in.

329 Henry St.; 718-852-8630

Verdura Resort and Spa is an entirely a new build except for the golf club, housed in an old tower, and the reception in a former railway station house.
Photo: Verdura Resort and Spa

by Ondine Cohane

Sicily has gotten under my skin. This marks my third annual trip to the Italian island--I first covered it on a pilgrimage to find an Italian wine baron and then last year I scouted its best beaches. This year I found myself first in Palermo, and then at Rocco Forte's new resort, Verdura Resort and Spa, for a quick September getaway.

Palermo, as always, didn't disappoint; a dilapidated chaotic gritty city that's still home to grand palazzi and amazing examples of Arab and Norman architecture. This isn't a sanitized tourist destination, though: on my first night there, all the street lights went out, leaving me in a small alley in total darkness for a good five minutes. Among my new discoveries was the BB22, a chic bed and breakfast next to the Vucurria food market, another one of my picks. BB22 was great, especially for 150 euros, and the staff was friendly and helpful. I also checked out Cana Enoteca, a little wine bar not far from Piazza Marina that proved a gem for its selection of Sicilian vintages (don't miss the reds from Mount Etna), large plates of cheese and local salamis, and cozy wood-paneled atmosphere. If I lived in town, it would definitely become my favored neighborhood spot.

The following morning I headed on to Verdura, a resort that's been generating a lot of buzz in Italy.

Opening Ceremony Tokyo opened with a home section and a café, both new
components of the brand
Photo: Frame Noir

by Ondine Cohane

Have a penchant for fashion and want to travel to get your fix? Opening Ceremony, one of retail's most cutting edge shops and design groups, recently opened a 50,000 square foot flagship in Japan's capital that's already a fashion world darling. Helmed by Humberto Leon and Carol Lim--who have built their concept from a fledgling group of international designers (hence the name play on the Olympics) to one of the most fashion forward and successful undertakings in years--the store certainly seems to fly in the face of recent economic woes. The eight floor extravaganza showcases the duo's own designs alongside a devoted shop to Alexander Wang, a new line from Chloe Sevigny, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler and Acne jeans, among others. The launch party was similarly celeb studded--Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Jason Schwartzman, Kirsten Dunst, and Sean Lennon (and mom Yoko Ono) were among the attendees. And Opening Ceremony isn't the only stateside shop to end up in Tokyo of late; LA's Kitson and a new Tom Ford outpost are also about to open their doors. Get your credit cards ready!

Further reading:
* Etiquette 101: Dress Codes (fanny packs not allowed)
* That Mango Will Blow Your Damn Mind: Adam Platt on Tokyo's fanatical foodies (CNT, September 2007)
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

The "Relaxation Terrace" at Cornwall's new Scarlet hotel.
Photo courtesy of the Scarlet

by Ondine Cohane

One of the trends I've been seeing of late is hotels with a surf theme or barefoot-chic beachy vibe--properties like Montauk, Long Island's popular Surf Lodge and Bungalow on the Jersey Shore.

Now there are two more to keep on your radar. The Scarlet, in England's Cornwall region, just opened a few weeks back and is already making waves for its eco-sensibility and stylish vibe. The 37-room property overlooks the Atlantic Ocean and has an Ayurvedic spa on site. Cornwall has become one of Europe's hottest surf centers--the countryside is gorgeous, and the food is just great--and I have a feeling The Scarlet is going to make the area even more of a draw.

I just found out about a new spot opening October 15 in St. Pete Beach, Florida. The Postcard Inn on the Beach is the latest from restaurateur Stephen Hanson (behind the James Hotel in Chicago), and claims to be "laid-back, beachy, and carefree" as well as affordable. Think surf-inspired accommodations, beers and burgers, and comfy hammocks by the sea. A whole generation of travelers want affordable, chic beachside places--hoteliers should keep them coming.

In the meantime, got a relaxed seaside favorite that has the surfer (or surfer wannabe) vibe? Let us know.

Further reading:
* Stiletto Watch: Montauk
* A New Reason to Hit the Jersey Shore This Summer
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

A new look for the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat.

by Ondine Cohane

After my visit to La Réserve Ramatuelle, outside St-Tropez, I decided to check out some other grande dame hotels in the South of France that have been recently refurbished to the tune of millions of euros.

The first stop was the storied Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, tucked away in one of the Côte d'Azur's poshest seaside enclaves. Facing the sea, the imposing building has a beach club with an Olympic-size pool and a new spa by Carita and pretty restaurant space for the property's Michelin-starred Le Cap. But it was the rooms that received the most attention during the overhaul: They are now airy and bright (with a cheery canary-yellow and white palette) and feel very spacious. If you stay in the main building, be sure to book a sea view rather than a forest view, and if you can afford to splurge, the newly built suites behind the main hotel are done in the same style as the rest of the guest rooms but some have private pools, which feels wonderfully decadent.

In nearby Monaco, the Monte Carlo Beach hotel got a similar revamp in time for summer thanks to India Mahdavi, the talented interior designer behind such projects as London's Connaught and Mexico City's Condesa DF. In a matter of months, Mahdavi transformed the Monte Carlo from tired to chic, giving the interiors a nautical feel with porthole windows, 1930s black-and-white photos from the hotel's glam days, and custom-made furniture that makes you feel like you're heading out to sea on a retro cruiser.

Further reading:
* La Réserve Ramatuelle
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Views from rooms at La Reserve Ramatuelle reveal a seemingly endless expanse of the Mediterranean Sea.
Photo: La Reserve Ramatuelle

by Ondine Cohane

Last week I had the good fortune to be in the South of France scoping out La Reserve Ramatuelle near Saint-Tropez. The property opened in May and, as the name suggests, it's a true retreat. What I think made it stand out most was the fact that even though it was close to the action of celeb central Saint-Tropez and the pretty medieval village of Ramatuelle, it felt a world apart from the tourist crowds with only 23 rooms perched over the Mediterranean. The resort was masterminded by French designer Jean-Michel Wilmotte who focused on creating airy, light-filled spaces that were still very luxurious, the perfect aesthetic for a place where the focus should be on the view.

Some European "beauty centers," while they look good are a little lightweight on treatments, but the spa at La Reserve Ramatuelle was a standout. It was obvious that my technician was just as concerned with my alignment as making sure I was relaxed as I was. And I loved the spa's internal pool, the counterpoint to the huge outdoor swimming pool that also seems to hang above the sea. It was hard to leave my room, but I did manage to make a couple of stops into Ramatuelle for the market and also to Saint-Tropez to admire the über-yachts (if the economy is bad, these seafarers didnt seem to have gotten the memo). If you are heading to the South of France you'll want to make La Reserve a part of the itinerary.

Further reading:
* Feather Down Farms Getaways
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Feather Down tents lie on working farms in New York and Illinois, among other locations.
Photo: Feather Down Farms

by Ondine Cohane

There is nothing like difficult economic times to make you want to disconnect from urban stimulation and all things wired. At least that's the case for me; when I am on a long country walk with no cell reception or iPhone on hand it's infinitely easier to forget what's happening with the Dow or the job market. So I like the idea of the Feather Down Farms getaways, a European company come stateside that basically has you spending your holiday doing farm chores and eating meals of organic, fresh-picked ingredients.

The farm-stay chain is decidedly high-end, with accommodations in spacious tents with wood floors,  bathrooms, wood-burning stoves, and comfy beds that are more B&B than rustic. But outdoorsy activities are salt of the earth, including picking organic vegetables, gathering hay, and milking goats before making cheese that might end up on your make-your-own pizza. There are a number of different farms to chose from in rural spots like the Catskills and Illinois, and the company plans to have 20 to choose from in the next year.

Feather Down Farms sounds particularly good as a family getaway--what kid doesn't like to pet a farm pony or feed the sheep? And I have recently heard of a number of investment bankers and CEOs who have left the rat race to start organic farms--this kind of vacation gives you a taste of whether country living is really for you or an idyll best just dreamed about.

Read after the jump for a look at the tent's interior.

Beautiful hand-painted doors, just part of designer Jacques Garcia's vision for La Mamounia in Marrakech.
Photo: Alan Keohane

by Ondine Cohane

Morocco is a big gap in my travel education. Somehow I just haven't had the chance to get there. The hotel scene in Marrakech is one of the most exciting in the world, with a mix of small riad properties converted into boutique hotels and bigger--but still stylish--resorts. Here are some hotels opening in Morocco this fall that you should keep on your radar: 

* Few hotels have as storied histories as Marrakech's La Mamounia. It seems that almost every celeb who comes to town has bedded down there--Winston Churchill and Mick Jagger are just two who come to mind. But the property had started to feel a bit run down, so the grand dame has undergone a multi-million dollar face lift. New additions include three restaurants, a 27,000 square foot spa, and glam interiors by Jacques Garcia, who designed Paris's chic Hotel Costes and the Metropole in Monte Carlo. I am betting that this will be one of the hottest hotel openings of the fall and winter season. Doors are set to open at the end of this month.

* Royal Mansour Marrakech, owned by the King of Morocco, sounds like it will be indeed palatial with 53 individual riads (ranging in size from 1,400 square feet to over 21,000!) set into the ancient wall of the city and covering eight acres of landscaped gardens. The property includes a huge spa with an indoor pool and three restaurants under the helm of Michelin-starred chef Yannick Alléno. The project is part of the King's "Vision 2010" initiative to promote tourism and jobs in the hospitality sector. When it opens in November, riad prices will range from ¬1,500-¬20,000 per night.

* Later in the year, a new 161-room Mandarin Oriental is opening in the residential area of Palmeraie, about 20 minutes away from the center of town. I saw a few early photos yesterday and it looks gorgeous, with beautiful views of the Atlas mountains and ornate interiors--I call dibs on the blue room! And, of course, the Mandarin Oriental spas are always excellent so I would definitely book a few treatments.

Do you already have a favorite Marrakech hideaway? Let me know your tips.

Further reading:
*"Morocco to the Max" (CNT, June 2006)
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Pardini's Hermitage in Giglio can only be reached by the sea.
Photo: Pardini's Hermitage

by Ondine Cohane

This past week I continued on my quest for new Italian discoveries (an undertaking that is far from disagreeable, I may add) with a jaunt to Giglio, a small island off the Tuscan coast, the lesser known sister to Elba and an hour ferry ride from Porto Santo Stefano. It's a lovely spot, a mostly mountainous stretch that drops into some of the most beautifully clear water in Italy--when you snorkel you can see about 20 meters below you and the diversity of the fish is a testament to how the Tuscan coast has really campaigned to clean things up in the last few years.

I stayed at Pardini's Hermitage perched on its own little bay above the Tyrrhenian Sea and I loved the vibe of the place; it's old school, eccentric, slightly madcap and bohemian, and somewhere you really feel away from everything despite being only a fifteen minute boat ride from Giglio's main port and having free WiFi access. I was also very impressed by the quality of the food (a delicious pappa al pomodoro soup, just-caught orata, and creamy risotto with fresh seafood) and the overall organic ethos of the place--the homemade vinegar is made with local thyme and other herbs, the olive oil comes from the owners' other farm in Grosseto and the ricotta and yogurt are from the owners' goats just up the hill.

Apart from eating, swimming and snorkeling, reading, visiting the animals on the property's farm (including a donkey named Spartico) and hiking, there wasn't a lot to tempt me away from the area. (Not to mention it is still high season in Italy, which means the main beaches and towns were crawling with people.) I'll save my sightseeing for next spring when the wildflowers are blooming and the island is blissfully empty, though at the Hermitage things already felt that way. Just a couple of words of warning: the place isn't ideal for toddlers (think steep stone paths and drops into the sea off rocks) or people who like a jam-packed itinerary, and don't be alarmed by the Web site, which could do with a bit of an update.

Further reading:
* Ondine on Vernazza, the budget-conscious crowd's Portofino.
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide.

You can stay overnight in Green
T. House's Beijing bath house.
Photo: The Green T. House

by Ondine Cohane

I am a bath fan. It could be because I spent my first decade on earth in Ireland and England--drafty houses and infernal cold rain make them a must--or the fact that I am a water sign, or that lying in a tub with a fashion magazine and a glass of wine is one of my favorite ways to relax. But regardless, tubs (and steam rooms, saunas, and Jacuzzis) are a mania for this correspondent.

So it was with great interest that I found out about a newly opened "bath house residence" on the outskirts of Beijing. Set in the Green T. House living complex, which is also home to a funky restaurant and tea house, this new private villa has a huge bath area based on those favored by the Tang emperor, and a 20-person Jacuzzi as well as a circulating mineral pool with a waterfall on the roof terrace. You can book the place for the day, enjoying spa treatments and a meal, or throw a high-end slumber party by renting it for the night (the house sleeps up to eight in loft bedrooms). I like the idea of an overnight, especially with the option of getting an eight-hand massage in front of an open fireplace after dinner, and languishing in a bath before falling asleep. If I were heading to Beijing anytime soon, I would certainly take a dip.

Further reading:
* Ondine on Vernazza, the budget-conscious crowd's Portofino.
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide.

"The only way I can bear to leave Vernazza," says Ondine Cohane, "is if I have another excursion already planned."
Photo: anroir on Flickr using Creative Commons

by Ondine Cohane

Looking for an inexpensive Italian coastal getaway that's got plenty of charm, sun, and beautiful backdrops? Vernazza, in the Cinque Terre, is one of my favorite towns in the country. I'm even loath to write about it because it's such a gem.

I was just back there for my annual pilgrimage, and despite being on the Rick Steves trail, crowded with day-trippers during high season, the place still has its own unspoilable charm--pastel-colored buildings with laundry hanging from the windows, old geezers who make a living room out of the seafront piazza, local kids diving off the pier, and rooms that can still be booked for 100 euros or less. Admittedly, most of the accommodations are not luxurious, and you have to climb a hundred steps to get to Gianni Franzi's rooms, where I usually stay, but I hardly spend time there except to sleep.

There is too much to entertain outside: I stay busy eating at Gianni's trattoria (plates of marinated anchovies in lemon juice, fritto misto, spaghetti al vongole, whole fish in the oven and the pesto the region's famous for), swimming off the aforementioned pier where a swimming-only lane in the cove means undisturbed laps, reading at an outside table at the bar in the main square, and taking hikes between the five picturesque villages that have given this area a UNESCO heritage designation. My favorite of the trails is between Vernazza and Corniglia--it is ruggedly beautiful and the views are spectacular (try to time ending your walk as the sun sets). At night, the town becomes more peaceful when travelers from La Spezia and Porto Venere head to their hotels and only residents and people staying in the village remain.

Next time I want to try Vernazza's La Mala, a newish boutique hotel that overlooks the sea. It's a bit more pricey than the other hotels, but reviews are good.

Further reading:
* Ondine on Brooklyn's own little Italian empire
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Prefer to be stuck in the trees instead of on the beach? The new Shangri-La property has Tree House Villas.
Photo: Shangri La's Villingili Resort and Spa

by Ondine Cohane

It may be summer in the States (or at least some semblance of it), but if you are like me, you're already plotting where to escape when ice, snow, and heavy jackets hit in a few months. Top of my list? The just-opened Shangri-La Villingili in the Maldives, with overwater bungalows (my dream accommodation), postcard-perfect powder white sand, and crystal-clear water. There's also a spa with a yoga pavilion overlooking the Indian Ocean--yoga with a view is, naturally, more conducive to a deep meditational state. I also like the idea of the 11-mile bike path that leads across five islands past villages and lush jungle. The cherry on the travel sundae is the great diving in the reefs nearby--or maybe the boat trips across the equator (always a good trophy). The only question now is to how to fund such a blissful getaway. . . . 

Further reading:
* Condé Nast Traveler's 2008 Dream Trip winner stayed in overwater villas at the One&Only Reethi Rah in the Maldives. Read the Perrin Post blog for her favorite moments from the trip.
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide.

Tom Wolfe and Joan Didion are
among the writers whose
stories make up Flight Patterns.
Photo courtesy of Open City

by Ondine Cohane

Flying provokes myriad emotions for many of us: excitement, fear, the thrill of adventure, discomfort, a sense of escape and claustrophobia among them. A newly released anthology, Flight Patterns: A Century of Stories about Flying, edited by Dorothy Spears, features writings from aviation pioneers like Orville Wright, Charles A. Lindbergh, and Amelia Earhart to more contemporary musings on this mode of transport from authors like Thomas Beller, Walter Kirn, and David Sedaris. It's a good read, from tragic military tales to a teenager's awkward introduction to the mile high club to the final chapter of Beryl Markham's memoir, West with the Night, where she writes, "I could ask, 'Why risk it?' as I have been asked since, and I could answer, 'Each to his element.' By his nature a sailor must sail, by his nature a flyer must fly."

This particular correspondent has a real fear of flying. I dislike the lack of control; at each bout of turbulence, I worry that my future plans will be lost in an instant. I muscle through, though, because I love traveling too much. Reading the anthology was a good exercise: I realized how psychologically loaded flying is for most of us, and also how it provokes great writing. Available from Open City Books, $15.95.

Further reading:
* Ondine on the importance of a good GM
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

James Sherwin
Photo: Courtesy of the Mark

by Ondine Cohane

As far as I am concerned, you can't overestimate the importance of a good hotel general manager, someone who is responsible for handling  every whim of guests--dealing with any complaint large or small--as well as making sure everything from the restaurant service to room cleanings happens in the most timely, professional, and effortless manner possible.

It may be a cheesy reference, but I always think of the hotel manager in Pretty Woman, who doesn't bat an eyelash at the strange requests of Richard Gere and Julia Roberts and schools her on etiquette (the character was supposedly based on Jack Naderkhani, the general manager of the Raffles L'Ermitage in Los Angeles). James Sherwin is a similar legend in the hospitality business, a charming Brit who used to be the GM at the Carlyle and before that worked at London properties like the Connaught. He is the perfect gentleman and never reveals the secrets of his many celebrity clients--in fact, he is so beloved that he has become a regular fixture on the New York social scene. When he left the Carlyle a couple of years ago to start a consulting business, I wondered where he might pop up next.

This week I got my answer: Sherwin is going to be at the helm of the newly renovated Mark hotel on 77th Street in Manhattan, which just had its soft opening last Monday. Expect a huge overhaul by the fabulous Jacques Grange (he designed many of Yves Saint Laurent's chic retreats and is one of France's most renowned interior designers), a Jean Georges restaurant with 24-hour room service, and a Frédéric Fekkai salon. With Sherwin on board, I bet it is going to be one of the best hotels in New York.

Further reading:
* "Calibrating a Hotel for the Luxury Market," The New York Times on the Mark
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Pet Airways: What Bo would choose if he didn't have Air Force One.

by Ondine Cohane

I want a dog. A small dog with a big dog personality. But is it responsible for a writer who goes on the road at least every two weeks--New York, Miami, Hawaii, Mexico, Colombia, etc. etc.--to procure a pup?

It is still far from clear, but I must admit that I was heartened to read about the launch of the five-airplane fleet of Pet Airways this week. The brainchild of Dan Wiesel and Alysa Binder, whose Jack Russell had simply had it with traumatic cargo experiences, this new service shuttles Fido and Whiskers from New York to Washington, D.C., Chicago, Denver, and Los Angeles in the main cabin (one might say first class). Fares aren't necessarily cheap--$199 one way from New York to Chicago and $299 from New York to Los Angeles (animal transport fees at most major airlines run about $150)--but for peace of mind it seems a no-brainer. (I've read plenty of horror stories about someone's beloved canine escaping from cargo handlers never to be seen again, or suffocating en route.) With pick-up and drop-off lounges, complimentary pre-boarding walks, attendants on hand to check air temperature and food every 15 minutes, and special lodges for overnight stays, this airline is fit for the most well-pawed of pooches.

Despite it seeming to be a risky economic venture in these times, the carrier is already booked for the next two months. Now I will just have to wait for them to add international routes.

Further reading:
* Kitty Goes to Memphis, and Other Tales of Flying Fur
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Frankies' famous pork braciola marinara.
Photo: Michael Harlan Turkell for Frankies Spuntino

by Ondine Cohane

On my recent trip back to New York, I couldn't miss a pilgrimage to Frankies 457, one of my favorite haunts in Carroll Gardens. The restaurant enjoyed a buzzy opening a few years back; it was the perfect spot for dinner with friends or a lunch getaway in an area that was short on great restaurants. Although Carroll Gardens has become hipster central, Frankies is still a go-to spot for great salads like escarole with sliced red onion, walnuts, and pecorino; homemade gnocchi marinara with fresh ricotta; and crostini with avocado and pesto. It's the way I most like to eat--simple dishes made with seasonal ingredients.

The owners--they are both named Frank--have been busy building a foodie empire since I left the city. Their excellent new coffee shop in Cobble Hill, Café Pedlar, has some of the best brews in the hood (I went with an iced café latte, which was good enough to make me forget my Italian espresso--just for a minute). The menu at Prime Meats, right next door to Frankies, emphasizes locally sourced produce and meat (eventually the duo would like to have their own farm upstate); and this fall, a café in Red Hook called Delightful Coffee Shop is set to open on the corner of Commerce and Van Brunt streets. If you're heading to Brooklyn, check out one of the boys' establishments--you'll get a taste of why people from the Upper West Side to Wall Street are trekking to this borough.

Further reading:
* More from Ondine's New York trip: The Standard, not so standard
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

The bistro-like atmosphere in the Standard Grill's front room.

by Ondine Cohane

I am sitting in bed at New York's Standard hotel staring out at the quintessential city view: the wide swath of Hudson River with its sailboats, tugs, and cruise ships; New Jersey on the other shore; and the Statue of Liberty in the distance. After a few months away from the city, it's been the perfect crash pad and at $195 a night, a relative bargain.

My stay happens to coincide with the much-anticipated opening of the hotel's restaurant, the Standard Grill, with Dan Silverman (formerly of Lever House) at the helm. It is a great space with a fun outdoor café for drinks, a big main dining room with circular red banquettes, and an open kitchen. The menu (here's a preview) has a good mix of comfort food and more ambitious choices, as well as appetizers like briny oysters and homemade pâtés. Our group particularly enjoyed the roast chicken for two, the organic Berkshire pork chop, Atlantic swordfish with ginger, soy, and lime, and duck-fat smashed potatoes and sugar snap peas. We had a table in the wine room, which is a beautiful space and quiet enough to have a conversation--the main room was in full loud swing. The bottom line? If you are coming to New York, book a table. I guarantee it will be one of the hottest reservations in town.

Further reading:
* Below the Standard is the newly opened High Line, a gorgeous example of city renewal: an unused train track line that's been transformed into an elevated walkway with lovely gardens and plants.
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Squaw Valley's High Camp, soon to be the site of many shaking asanas.
Photo courtesy of Wanderlust Festival

by Ashley Cirilli

No matter how satisfying the sound, battling your way through the crowds at outdoor music performances can leave you a bit jaded, and hours of contorting to get a view of the stage can leave you with little more than a strained neck. At Lake Tahoe's first annual Wanderlust Festival (July 2426), though, you can work out the kinks with back bends instead of crowd-surfing sessions. Leave the beer and blue jeans at home; this "rock-'n'-yoga" event is more carrot juice and spandex.

Don't get me wrong--with a music lineup that includes Spoon, Andrew Bird, Girl Talk, and Jenny Lewis, the wave-your-hands-and-say-yea! vibe will not be lost on Wanderlust. And all-star producers Velour Music Group, C3 Presents (Lollapalooza, Austin City Limits Music Festival), and Starr Hill Presents (Bonnaroo, Outside Lands Music and Arts Festival) are behind the event. You'll just get some downward dog with your Rogue Wave.

Classes led by renowned yoga instructors Shiva Rea and John Friend can host 1,000 people, so if "Energetic Vinyasa for All Rebel Rockers" sounds like your thing, there's plenty of space. For ticket information, visit wanderlustfestival.com.

Further reading:
* The event focuses on wellness. At Wanderlust's Kula Village, visitors can attend lectures on health, environmental issues, and the conscious food movements, and shop for organic food and other eco-friendly products.
* The summer's hottest boutique music festivals
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

The Romeo Hotel in Naples,
another of Italy's underrated
treasures.
Photo: Romeo Hotel

by Ondine Cohane

If the answer is no, then I highly--highly--suggest you add it to your wish list. I made my second sojourn there last week and found it's still made with my favorite ingredients: wonderful food (a cuisine that utilizes both ingredients from the coast and interior countryside), fascinating architecture (Greek, Norman, Baroque, you name it), beautiful beaches, and intimate hotels.

I parked myself back at Il Convento di Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, a gorgeous former convent that has been restored to great effect by Alistair and Athena McAlpine and packed with treasures from their travels. (There is no Web site for the hotel; you need to call an English cell phone to make a booking 44-773-636-2328). I lazed by the pool, went for a stroll around the charming nearby village of Marittima, ate just-caught sea bass and shrimp, and enjoyed Athena's great conversation. I also made a side trip to Lecce, which has been described as the Florence of the south; after driving past arid fields bordered by massive gnarled olive trees, I took in the beautiful carvings in local churches. Puglia is definitely coming onto the radar, but I am surprised it isn't as well known by American travelers as it is with Brits. It should be.

Midsummer Tilt-A-Whirl
Photo: glowrocks on Flickr
using Creative Commons

by Emily Gerard

The Scandinavians got it right: The summer solstice is something worth celebrating. After all, what's not to like about the longest day of the year? The early days of summer give us plenty to celebrate, and plenty of daylight hours in which to revel. Best of all, while most festivals provide us with ample opportunities to spend money, midsummer festivals are usually free.

Here are some of the best and most interesting celebrations taking place in the next few weeks, reflecting the wildly different ways that cultures have come up with to mark the occasion:

New York City
Tonight, blonds of all descents will flock to the traditional Swedish Midsummer Celebration in Battery Park. The annual event features a giant midsummer pole made entirely of flowers, authentic fiddle music, and Swedish traditions of all kinds including singing and dancing and drinking cheers. Everyone will be wearing flower wreaths in their hair, so drop your pretenses and learn how to make one yourself. To top it all off, Battery Park is as lushly green as you can get in NYC. As you watch the sun set over the river while you enjoy some surströmming, Sweden's national dish of fermented herring, we guarantee you'll wish even this day could last a little longer.

Colorado
Out west, the Scandinavian Midsummer Festival, the largest of its kind in Colorado, taking place June 27-28, bills itself as a "celebration of the powers of nature and rejuvenation of life." While it boasts many of the same attractions as New York's Scandinavian affair, this weekend-long celebration in Estes Park also features a "Viking encampment," thus possibly pushing it to the next level of awesomeness. Plus, it includes a tip of the hat to the event's origins as a fertility festival, and nod to pagan rituals associated with nature. Hej!

The main tower of the Lamu Fort.
Photo: Aluka Digital Library on Flickr
using Creative Commons

by Ondine Cohane

I just got an e-mail from Rizzoli about a new coffee table book that the publishing house will release this October, Lamu: Kenya's Enchanted Island. It got me thinking about my honeymoon, which I spent on the island, one of seven in an archipelago off the coast of Kenya. 

A beautiful beach destination in a country much more famous for its safaris, Lamu feels like a secret hideaway. The island has a stone town dating back to the fourteenth century, wide pristine stretches of sand, and gorgeous diving conditions (parrot fish, trumpet fish, and red and yellow snapper among the sightings). The only way you can get around the place is by donkey or dhow; cars are prohibited. It is one of those places where you can truly tune out the rest of the world while immersing yourself in a rich culture and history.

On my honeymoon, I was impressed by the quality and breadth of hotel choices on Lamu. In Shela, there's the legendary Peponi and the lovely Fatuma's Tower, and farther afield on the island of Kiwayu, the hippie-chic Munira Island Camp and the luxe Kiwayu Safari Village. I wonder how things have changed since then. Turns out Sophy Roberts, a friend and fellow journalist, recently wrote a piece about Lamu for the Financial Times' weekend section. I have to confess that I'm jealous she was there so recently.

I would go back to Lamu in a heartbeat.

Venice Biennale 2009 runs until
November 22.
Photo: eSeL.at using
Creative Commons

by Ondine Cohane

This past weekend marked the opening of the 53rd Venice Biennale, arguably the biggest and most important contemporary art event of its kind. The first week of the extravaganza is full of parties for A-list critics, artists, and other members of the glitterati.  I choose to head to the city a month after it starts so I can see the shows in a more peaceful way. (Note: The event runs until November 22.)

I'll be sure to check out American artist Bruce Nauman's show, which was awarded the Golden Lion prize for best national participation this year--the art equivalent of the Palmes D'Or at the Cannes Film Festival. And I always make an effort to hit as many countries' exhibitions as I can; they can be a good introduction to little-known artists. Even the pavilions themselves are works of art, like the Finnish space designed by Alvar Aalto in 1955.

There is no sign of the economic downturn here--it's the biggest Biennale yet with 77 separate exhibits. While I am there I will also want to check out Francois Pinault's contemporary art collection in the new show "Mapping the Studio" with work from artists like Cy Twombly, Rachel Whiteread and Mike Kelley. It will span both buildings that house the French billionaire's foundation, the just opened Punta della Dogana (Venice's old custom house), which was renovated to great effect by Tadao Ando, and Palazzo Grassi, also an Ando undertaking. According to Bloomberg news, Pinault beat out the Guggenheim Foundation for the Dogana space. I love the combination of cutting edge work within centuries-old Italian palaces--it keeps the city vibrant.