James Sherwin
Photo: Courtesy of the Mark

by Ondine Cohane

As far as I am concerned, you can't overestimate the importance of a good hotel general manager, someone who is responsible for handling  every whim of guests--dealing with any complaint large or small--as well as making sure everything from the restaurant service to room cleanings happens in the most timely, professional, and effortless manner possible.

It may be a cheesy reference, but I always think of the hotel manager in Pretty Woman, who doesn't bat an eyelash at the strange requests of Richard Gere and Julia Roberts and schools her on etiquette (the character was supposedly based on Jack Naderkhani, the general manager of the Raffles L'Ermitage in Los Angeles). James Sherwin is a similar legend in the hospitality business, a charming Brit who used to be the GM at the Carlyle and before that worked at London properties like the Connaught. He is the perfect gentleman and never reveals the secrets of his many celebrity clients--in fact, he is so beloved that he has become a regular fixture on the New York social scene. When he left the Carlyle a couple of years ago to start a consulting business, I wondered where he might pop up next.

This week I got my answer: Sherwin is going to be at the helm of the newly renovated Mark hotel on 77th Street in Manhattan, which just had its soft opening last Monday. Expect a huge overhaul by the fabulous Jacques Grange (he designed many of Yves Saint Laurent's chic retreats and is one of France's most renowned interior designers), a Jean Georges restaurant with 24-hour room service, and a Frédéric Fekkai salon. With Sherwin on board, I bet it is going to be one of the best hotels in New York.

Further reading:
* "Calibrating a Hotel for the Luxury Market," The New York Times on the Mark
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Pet Airways: What Bo would choose if he didn't have Air Force One.

by Ondine Cohane

I want a dog. A small dog with a big dog personality. But is it responsible for a writer who goes on the road at least every two weeks--New York, Miami, Hawaii, Mexico, Colombia, etc. etc.--to procure a pup?

It is still far from clear, but I must admit that I was heartened to read about the launch of the five-airplane fleet of Pet Airways this week. The brainchild of Dan Wiesel and Alysa Binder, whose Jack Russell had simply had it with traumatic cargo experiences, this new service shuttles Fido and Whiskers from New York to Washington, D.C., Chicago, Denver, and Los Angeles in the main cabin (one might say first class). Fares aren't necessarily cheap--$199 one way from New York to Chicago and $299 from New York to Los Angeles (animal transport fees at most major airlines run about $150)--but for peace of mind it seems a no-brainer. (I've read plenty of horror stories about someone's beloved canine escaping from cargo handlers never to be seen again, or suffocating en route.) With pick-up and drop-off lounges, complimentary pre-boarding walks, attendants on hand to check air temperature and food every 15 minutes, and special lodges for overnight stays, this airline is fit for the most well-pawed of pooches.

Despite it seeming to be a risky economic venture in these times, the carrier is already booked for the next two months. Now I will just have to wait for them to add international routes.

Further reading:
* Kitty Goes to Memphis, and Other Tales of Flying Fur
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Frankies' famous pork braciola marinara.
Photo: Michael Harlan Turkell for Frankies Spuntino

by Ondine Cohane

On my recent trip back to New York, I couldn't miss a pilgrimage to Frankies 457, one of my favorite haunts in Carroll Gardens. The restaurant enjoyed a buzzy opening a few years back; it was the perfect spot for dinner with friends or a lunch getaway in an area that was short on great restaurants. Although Carroll Gardens has become hipster central, Frankies is still a go-to spot for great salads like escarole with sliced red onion, walnuts, and pecorino; homemade gnocchi marinara with fresh ricotta; and crostini with avocado and pesto. It's the way I most like to eat--simple dishes made with seasonal ingredients.

The owners--they are both named Frank--have been busy building a foodie empire since I left the city. Their excellent new coffee shop in Cobble Hill, Café Pedlar, has some of the best brews in the hood (I went with an iced café latte, which was good enough to make me forget my Italian espresso--just for a minute). The menu at Prime Meats, right next door to Frankies, emphasizes locally sourced produce and meat (eventually the duo would like to have their own farm upstate); and this fall, a café in Red Hook called Delightful Coffee Shop is set to open on the corner of Commerce and Van Brunt streets. If you're heading to Brooklyn, check out one of the boys' establishments--you'll get a taste of why people from the Upper West Side to Wall Street are trekking to this borough.

Further reading:
* More from Ondine's New York trip: The Standard, not so standard
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

The bistro-like atmosphere in the Standard Grill's front room.

by Ondine Cohane

I am sitting in bed at New York's Standard hotel staring out at the quintessential city view: the wide swath of Hudson River with its sailboats, tugs, and cruise ships; New Jersey on the other shore; and the Statue of Liberty in the distance. After a few months away from the city, it's been the perfect crash pad and at $195 a night, a relative bargain.

My stay happens to coincide with the much-anticipated opening of the hotel's restaurant, the Standard Grill, with Dan Silverman (formerly of Lever House) at the helm. It is a great space with a fun outdoor café for drinks, a big main dining room with circular red banquettes, and an open kitchen. The menu (here's a preview) has a good mix of comfort food and more ambitious choices, as well as appetizers like briny oysters and homemade pâtés. Our group particularly enjoyed the roast chicken for two, the organic Berkshire pork chop, Atlantic swordfish with ginger, soy, and lime, and duck-fat smashed potatoes and sugar snap peas. We had a table in the wine room, which is a beautiful space and quiet enough to have a conversation--the main room was in full loud swing. The bottom line? If you are coming to New York, book a table. I guarantee it will be one of the hottest reservations in town.

Further reading:
* Below the Standard is the newly opened High Line, a gorgeous example of city renewal: an unused train track line that's been transformed into an elevated walkway with lovely gardens and plants.
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Squaw Valley's High Camp, soon to be the site of many shaking asanas.
Photo courtesy of Wanderlust Festival

by Ashley Cirilli

No matter how satisfying the sound, battling your way through the crowds at outdoor music performances can leave you a bit jaded, and hours of contorting to get a view of the stage can leave you with little more than a strained neck. At Lake Tahoe's first annual Wanderlust Festival (July 2426), though, you can work out the kinks with back bends instead of crowd-surfing sessions. Leave the beer and blue jeans at home; this "rock-'n'-yoga" event is more carrot juice and spandex.

Don't get me wrong--with a music lineup that includes Spoon, Andrew Bird, Girl Talk, and Jenny Lewis, the wave-your-hands-and-say-yea! vibe will not be lost on Wanderlust. And all-star producers Velour Music Group, C3 Presents (Lollapalooza, Austin City Limits Music Festival), and Starr Hill Presents (Bonnaroo, Outside Lands Music and Arts Festival) are behind the event. You'll just get some downward dog with your Rogue Wave.

Classes led by renowned yoga instructors Shiva Rea and John Friend can host 1,000 people, so if "Energetic Vinyasa for All Rebel Rockers" sounds like your thing, there's plenty of space. For ticket information, visit wanderlustfestival.com.

Further reading:
* The event focuses on wellness. At Wanderlust's Kula Village, visitors can attend lectures on health, environmental issues, and the conscious food movements, and shop for organic food and other eco-friendly products.
* The summer's hottest boutique music festivals
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

The Romeo Hotel in Naples,
another of Italy's underrated
treasures.
Photo: Romeo Hotel

by Ondine Cohane

If the answer is no, then I highly--highly--suggest you add it to your wish list. I made my second sojourn there last week and found it's still made with my favorite ingredients: wonderful food (a cuisine that utilizes both ingredients from the coast and interior countryside), fascinating architecture (Greek, Norman, Baroque, you name it), beautiful beaches, and intimate hotels.

I parked myself back at Il Convento di Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, a gorgeous former convent that has been restored to great effect by Alistair and Athena McAlpine and packed with treasures from their travels. (There is no Web site for the hotel; you need to call an English cell phone to make a booking 44-773-636-2328). I lazed by the pool, went for a stroll around the charming nearby village of Marittima, ate just-caught sea bass and shrimp, and enjoyed Athena's great conversation. I also made a side trip to Lecce, which has been described as the Florence of the south; after driving past arid fields bordered by massive gnarled olive trees, I took in the beautiful carvings in local churches. Puglia is definitely coming onto the radar, but I am surprised it isn't as well known by American travelers as it is with Brits. It should be.

Midsummer Tilt-A-Whirl
Photo: glowrocks on Flickr
using Creative Commons

by Emily Gerard

The Scandinavians got it right: The summer solstice is something worth celebrating. After all, what's not to like about the longest day of the year? The early days of summer give us plenty to celebrate, and plenty of daylight hours in which to revel. Best of all, while most festivals provide us with ample opportunities to spend money, midsummer festivals are usually free.

Here are some of the best and most interesting celebrations taking place in the next few weeks, reflecting the wildly different ways that cultures have come up with to mark the occasion:

New York City
Tonight, blonds of all descents will flock to the traditional Swedish Midsummer Celebration in Battery Park. The annual event features a giant midsummer pole made entirely of flowers, authentic fiddle music, and Swedish traditions of all kinds including singing and dancing and drinking cheers. Everyone will be wearing flower wreaths in their hair, so drop your pretenses and learn how to make one yourself. To top it all off, Battery Park is as lushly green as you can get in NYC. As you watch the sun set over the river while you enjoy some surströmming, Sweden's national dish of fermented herring, we guarantee you'll wish even this day could last a little longer.

Colorado
Out west, the Scandinavian Midsummer Festival, the largest of its kind in Colorado, taking place June 27-28, bills itself as a "celebration of the powers of nature and rejuvenation of life." While it boasts many of the same attractions as New York's Scandinavian affair, this weekend-long celebration in Estes Park also features a "Viking encampment," thus possibly pushing it to the next level of awesomeness. Plus, it includes a tip of the hat to the event's origins as a fertility festival, and nod to pagan rituals associated with nature. Hej!

The main tower of the Lamu Fort.
Photo: Aluka Digital Library on Flickr
using Creative Commons

by Ondine Cohane

I just got an e-mail from Rizzoli about a new coffee table book that the publishing house will release this October, Lamu: Kenya's Enchanted Island. It got me thinking about my honeymoon, which I spent on the island, one of seven in an archipelago off the coast of Kenya. 

A beautiful beach destination in a country much more famous for its safaris, Lamu feels like a secret hideaway. The island has a stone town dating back to the fourteenth century, wide pristine stretches of sand, and gorgeous diving conditions (parrot fish, trumpet fish, and red and yellow snapper among the sightings). The only way you can get around the place is by donkey or dhow; cars are prohibited. It is one of those places where you can truly tune out the rest of the world while immersing yourself in a rich culture and history.

On my honeymoon, I was impressed by the quality and breadth of hotel choices on Lamu. In Shela, there's the legendary Peponi and the lovely Fatuma's Tower, and farther afield on the island of Kiwayu, the hippie-chic Munira Island Camp and the luxe Kiwayu Safari Village. I wonder how things have changed since then. Turns out Sophy Roberts, a friend and fellow journalist, recently wrote a piece about Lamu for the Financial Times' weekend section. I have to confess that I'm jealous she was there so recently.

I would go back to Lamu in a heartbeat.

Venice Biennale 2009 runs until
November 22.
Photo: eSeL.at using
Creative Commons

by Ondine Cohane

This past weekend marked the opening of the 53rd Venice Biennale, arguably the biggest and most important contemporary art event of its kind. The first week of the extravaganza is full of parties for A-list critics, artists, and other members of the glitterati.  I choose to head to the city a month after it starts so I can see the shows in a more peaceful way. (Note: The event runs until November 22.)

I'll be sure to check out American artist Bruce Nauman's show, which was awarded the Golden Lion prize for best national participation this year--the art equivalent of the Palmes D'Or at the Cannes Film Festival. And I always make an effort to hit as many countries' exhibitions as I can; they can be a good introduction to little-known artists. Even the pavilions themselves are works of art, like the Finnish space designed by Alvar Aalto in 1955.

There is no sign of the economic downturn here--it's the biggest Biennale yet with 77 separate exhibits. While I am there I will also want to check out Francois Pinault's contemporary art collection in the new show "Mapping the Studio" with work from artists like Cy Twombly, Rachel Whiteread and Mike Kelley. It will span both buildings that house the French billionaire's foundation, the just opened Punta della Dogana (Venice's old custom house), which was renovated to great effect by Tadao Ando, and Palazzo Grassi, also an Ando undertaking. According to Bloomberg news, Pinault beat out the Guggenheim Foundation for the Dogana space. I love the combination of cutting edge work within centuries-old Italian palaces--it keeps the city vibrant.

Guests at the Castel Monastero will be able to enjoy the hotel's own wines in its cellar come July.
Photo: Castel Monastero

by Ondine Cohane

We are having a heat wave in Italy at the moment. Despite the almost unbearable 90-degree temperatures, May and June remain my favorite months here in Tuscany. We've got sunny skies; green fields full of wildflowers; cherries, zucchini, and artichokes are in season at the food markets; and there's no sign of the tourist fatigue that often sets in after the high season.

If all that sounds as irresistible to you as it does to me, here are some hotels opening in Italy this summer to keep on your radar:

* Il Salviatino will open in Florence on July 1. Located in one of my favorite neighborhoods, Fiesole, on a hill overlooking the city, the 54-room property is in a fifteenth-century villa with 11 acres of gardens, a holistic spa, a heated pool, and in-room fireplaces for the cooler months. A bit outside the fray, it sounds like the perfect retreat in frenetic Florence.
* Also debuting in July near Siena, Castel Monastero is an eleventh-century hamlet that's been transformed into a resort with a huge spa and a Gordon Ramsay restaurant--his first foray into this part of the world.
* I wrote about Sicily's Verdura Resort and Spa, a huge undertaking by Rocco Forte, a few weeks ago, and I am still just as curious to see this new property. Please share your thoughts if you've been or you plan on visiting.
* And of course a number of great hotels that opened in the last year or so made it onto our 2009 Hot List, including the Romeo, the Four Seasons Florence, Castiglion del Bosco, and Borgo Santo Pietro. I have made it to all of them except the Romeo (planning a trip next month), and they all deserve the accolades.

Further reading:
* Five top Tuscan restaurants
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

"Courtyard of the Hotel Acatlan," by David Hockney, from his Mexican series 1984-85, one of several Hockneys at the Gran Hotel Son Net.
Photo: Clive Irving

by Clive Irving

Hotel art is generally appalling. For many decades, the notable exception has been La Colombe d'Or, a hotel that sits on a ridge above the French Riviera at St. Paul de Vence and is renowned for being as much an art gallery as a lodging. On the grounds are large murals by Léger and Braque and, by the pool, a Calder mobile. Inside are original works by once hard-up artists who paid for their rooms in canvases, including Picasso, Matisse, and Miró. Then there is the setting and the light, part of the conspiracy of location that bred such legendary talents: Chagall illuminated a chapel in nearby Vence, and a fine gallery of modern greats is also at hand in the Fondation Maeght.

Few hotels, however, occupy such inspiring locales as La Colombe d'Or. So applause, please, for the Gran Hotel Son Net, hidden away in a highland valley of Mallorca. The building is a sensitively restored country estate, or finca, dating from 1672. There you will find works by Frank Stella, Andy Warhol, and David Hockney, among others, as well as some sketches by the Great Wrapper, Cristo, of buildings he sought to enrobe. These are not one-off originals, which would require deep pockets, but they are well chosen from limited-edition prints and are appropriately framed (including a Hockney, whose frame is part of a geometric joke with planes of color) and carefully hung in public spaces.

The Son Net is an example of the kind of luxury retreat that has, in recent years, appeared in the Tramuntana Mountains of western Mallorca. The discovery of the area's beauty began with Robert Graves, who wrote I, Claudius while living on the island and who later settled in the village of Deya for his final years. This also happens to be the location of La Residencia, which introduced to Mallorca new (and expensive) levels of pampering.

Pervasive images of Mallorcan beaches thronged by the tanning torsos of Brits and Germans on package tours are confounded by this other side of an island that is making great efforts to go upscale and go green, harnessing its traditional windmill skills and solar power.The cuisine, too, is making strides with local ingredients and wines that are, for the first time, up to the standards of the rest of Spain. 

Further reading:
* La Colombe d'Or is a Conde Nast Traveler Gold List perennial
* Check for special deals this summer, including four nights for the price of three at the Gran Hotel Son Net

A standard "Aloha" room, which has a king bed, flat-screen TV, iPod docking station, and fireplace.
Photo: The Bungalow

by Ondine Cohane

I have never been to the Jersey Shore. Well, actually that's not technically true: I went to see Velvet Revolver perform in Atlantic City. But I haven't ventured to the beaches there, even though plenty of my surfing pals have brought me back good reports. The opening of Bungalow, a 24-room boutique property in Long Branch could change that.

From the up-and-coming design group SIXX (this is its first hotel project) the Bungalow mixes a decidedly laid-back but stylish beach feel with contemporary accessories like lamps from Moss (one of my favorite stores in NYC), gorgeous surf photos by Jeff Devine, and light-filled rooms with huge bathtubs. If you like toys for grown-ups, don't miss the 1940s pool table and a vintage foosball table in the lobby. And I like the sound of the adjacent beach club, Avenue Nuit, designed by hot Brit architect David Collins. Sun-worshipper central by day, party spot after by night, it's got a rooftop pool and an outdoor fireplace.

Further reading:
* André Balazs's chic motel Sunset Beach, one of my favorite beachside spots, has also just reopened for the season in Shelter Island. Rates start at $175 during the week and $370 over the weekends, better prices than years past. And there are few better spots for a mojito with a view on the east end of Long Island.
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide.

A rendering of the new Renzo Piano-designed wing at the Art Institute of Chicago.
Photo: The Art Institute of Chicago

by Ondine Cohane

I love Chicago. I started traveling there for work a few years ago, and I immediately became a fan, particularly after discovering some of the city's great hotels and restaurants. Among my favorite stops? The Peninsula for its luxurious rooms and perfect location; the newly refurbished Ritz-Carlton Chicago (which, confusingly, is actually a Four Seasons) for its impeccable but friendly service; Avec restaurant for its encyclopedic wine list and simple but excellent food (it was just nominated for a James Beard Award); and Ikram boutique, which Michelle Obama recently brought into the spotlight. Of course, the fact that the Obamas made their home in Chicago for so many years has given the city a little extra luster.

This month, there's another reason to book a ticket to the Windy City: On May 16, the Art Institute of Chicago will unveil its new Modern Wing, designed by Renzo Piano. Like Piano's lovely addition to New York's Morgan Library (see the New York Times's rave review), this one looks to be a beautifully understated addition, with the quintessential Piano light-filled entrance hall. The 264,000 square feet of new space will increase the Art Institute's size by a third, and museum-goers will enjoy iconic views of Millennium Park and Chicago's skyline (look at the reflection of the buildings on the museum's windows). The inaugural exhibition will feature the most recent work of superstar artist Cy Twombly--and don't miss architectural photographer Judith Turner's abstracts of the new wing.

There are plenty of other exhibits and museums opening around the country to get you in the traveling mood this spring and summer:

* A fascinating exhibit on Pompeii opened on May 3 at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

* Fashionistas will enjoy "Model as Muse," which opened May 6 at New York's Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum. While you're there, you might want to pick your favorite model of all time. (I have to go with Veruschka, Christy Turlington, and Daria Werbowy. See, I can't choose!)

* Also in Manhattan, starting May 15, is the Frank Lloyd Wright blockbuster at the Guggenheim.

* Santa Fe debuts its New Mexico History Museum on May 24.

* You can take a look at early-twentieth-century skyscrapers at the Philadelphia Museum of Art starting June 6.

* An exhibition on Georgia O' Keefe and the influence of modernist Arthur Dove on her work opens on June 7 at the Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute, in Williamstown, Massachusetts.

Anything I should add to the list? Let me know!

Primal scream: Victims
of carpet-bombing, 1937,
detail from Picasso's Guernica.

by Clive Irving

Picasso's Guernica is the most concentrated form of rage against war ever contained in one canvas. Indeed, it has so much internal force that it seems to want to break from the confines of the frame and, with a heart-wrenching scream, inhabit a whole museum. That was its impact on me when I first saw it at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. Later, in 1981, Guernica was returned to Spain when that country was released from the bondage of the Franco regime. These days, it is installed in Madrid's Reina Sofia museum.

For the next year, however, it is possible to see Guernica in a far more approachable setting. Unlike in Madrid, where it is impossible to come at the work for a full frontal, you can get up close and see all of its intricate dynamics. (This was not just a painting of war; with its great scale and technique, it fueled the minds of other artists.)

The Whitechapel Gallery in London has a long history with Guernica. In the late 1930s, the canvas was like a refugee, moving from continent to continent as world war was about to engulf Europe. Picasso completed the work in Paris in the summer of 1937, immediately after the atrocity that inspired it: the bombing of the small city of Guernica by Germans supporting the Spanish fascists, in which 1,645 people were killed in one night. In 1939, the canvas was shipped to Britain from Paris and, when shown at the Whitechapel, drew 15,000 visitors a week. Later that year, it arrived in New York, where it remained until 1981.

Picasso, concerned with the painting's fragility, had three tapestry copies made by expert weavers in Paris. One of these tapestries is now exhibited at the Whitechapel and, given a large space to itself, has an impact equal to that of the original when it was at MoMA. The Whitechapel has recently reopened after expanding into an adjoining building. It's a cozy place, with a series of small spaces on different levels, suitable for unhurried and uncrowded viewing. The location is way off-center, in a stubbornly dingy part of east London, but it's easy to get to via Tube; the station, actually on the site, is Aldgate East. 

The Guernica tapestry will be on display through April 2010 (whitechapelgallery.org).

Three staples of the Italian diet
that will never change:
wine, sausage, and cheese.
Photo: Ditte Isager for Condé Nast Traveler

Recently, Twitter user @deborahhankin asked Wendy Perrin (@wendyperrin), "In two weeks I'm headed to Lake Como area and then down to Tuscany. Any favorite restaurants you can recommend?" Wendy forwarded the question on to the Daily Traveler, a.k.a. the Gluttonous Ones. We then put Italy expert  Ondine Cohane on the case. This is not an exhaustive list, but below find five spots where Ondine has had some of the best meals in her adopted home:

* La Pineta: "This one-room restaurant in Marina di Bibbona on the Tuscan coast is my favorite pick for seafood; I make the pilgrimage whenever I can. Chef Luciano Zazzeri, a former fisherman, has three boats that provide him with his daily catch, and he is an alchemist at bringing out the best in his simple but incredible dishes. It's no wonder that it's hard to get a reservation. Don't miss the crudo (raw fish), spaghetti alle vongole, and the outstanding wine list. The restaurant is about an hour southwest of Florence and makes a fun day-trip (Via dei 27 Cavalleggeri Nord; 39-0586-600-016)."

* Cavolo Nero: "This local foodie magnet, tucked away in an un-touristy part of Florence, is one of the city's underrated gems as far as I am concerned. The menu emphasizes seasonal dishes to great effect--ask the owners what they recommend that day and you'll eat one of the best meals of your trip, at prices that are relatively inexpensive (22 Via dell'Ardiglione; 39-055-294-744.)"

* Le Logge: "This Sienese institution is housed in a former pharmacy right off Siena's Campo, the city's huge main square, but despite its popularity I always eat well. The emphasis here is on Tuscan classics like taglierini al tartufo and hearty meat dishes. Sadly, owner Gianni Brunelli recently died but his family is continuing his legacy for great food and wine (33 Via del Porrione; 39-0577-48-013."

* Trattoria Il Leccio: "I just had a fabulous lunch at this trattoria in Sant'Angelo in Colle, a beautiful little town not far from Montalcino and the region's wonderful Brunellos. I love the menu--I had artichoke carpaccio, a fava bean salad with fresh pecorino, and melt-in-your-mouth ravioli with butter and sage (spring vegetables are in season right now, which makes for great eating). And the wine list has most of the best vintages from neighboring vineyards (there is even a little wine store and bar next door so you can take a bottle home). This is where the most famous producers eat, a testament to how good it is, but the restaurant thankfully remains unpretentious (1/3-5 Piazza Castello; 39-0577-844-175)."

* Arnolfo: "I am overdue in making a return trip but this Michelin-starred destination restaurant in Colle di Val d' Elsa is certainly worth its accolades. Chef Gaetano Trovato is one of the region's most consistent stars and is always experimenting, even after two decades on the scene. Worth the splurge. Oh, and the views are fab too (50-52A Via XX Settembre; 39-0577-920-549."

Need more ideas? Check out some of Ondine's other picks in the Tuscany round-up that ran in Condé Nast Traveler's September issue. And readers, let us know if you have any other favorites @CNTraveler.

Andrew Bird plays last year's Outside Lands festival in San Francisco's Golden Gate Park.
Photo: gussifer l thecoloradoawesome.com on Flickr using Creative Commons

by Ondine Cohane

Where to catch Lily Allen, Kraftwerk, Arcade Fire, Fleet Foxes, Franz Ferdinand, Kings of Leon, and other music-fest faves this summer

What: OUTSIDE LANDS, August 28-30
Where: Golden Gate Park, San Francisco
The Vibe: Jack Johnson and Ben Harper are alumni of this West Coast eco-chic festival, now in its second season, which attracts surfers and hippie rockers with day jobs, and mixes jam-band acts with edgier alternatives.
What to Bring: Stay hip and hydrated with the latest from Blue Q, an eco-conscious accessories company that specializes in water bottles ($18).
Don't Miss: The wine-tasting tents--sample the latest Napa vintages, plus super-fresh Hog Island oysters.
In the Hood: Take a side trip to hike along the beautiful Point Reyes National Seashore, an hour north of San Fran (nps.gov/pore).

What: HOVE, June 22-23,
Where: Tromøy Island, Norway
The Vibe: One of the Continent's most exciting and eclectic showcases after only two years (Jay-Z headlined in 2008), this carbon-neutral festival attracts outdoorsy types because of its bucolic Scandinavian countryside setting--think fairy-tale forests, pristine beaches, and clear, fish-filled lakes.
What to Bring: Want to keep up with crazy Scandi style? Pack a graphic bag by Finnish textile authority Marimekko ($469).
Don't Miss: The Killers, headlining this year's lineup, along with Franz Ferdinand, Fleet Foxes, and the Ting Tings.
In the Hood: Check out the former home of Henrik Ibsen, the country's most famous playwright, which is now a museum in nearby Grimstad (gbm.no/ibsenmuseet.html).

The One & Only Cape Town.

by Ondine Cohane

I have been thinking about South Africa a lot this week. Mostly because of the recent election, of course, but also because my husband has some South African guests staying with us. Regardless of what you think of Jacob Zuma (and I will stay out of politics here), there is no disputing that the country has plenty to attract tourists: wine, wildlife, and gorgeous natural surroundings from bush to beach.

Cape Town is consistently a reader favorite at Condé Nast Traveler, and with the opening of a One & Only resort there this month, the city is going to become even more popular. Nelson Mandela and Mariah Carey were among the boldfaced names at the grand opening, and it sounds like it is going to be an impressive property with a 3,767-square-foot infinity pool (I am trying to visualize that), a huge spa and fitness center, both a Gordon Ramsay Maze and a Nobu restaurant (the first in Africa), and gorgeous views of iconic Table Mountain.

When I visited Cape Town in the early '90s I stayed at the beautiful Mount Nelson Hotel before going on safari in Botswana, but there are great places to see game in South Africa. I got an e-mail from a friend this week asked whether she should stay at Singita or Londolozi lodge for her honeymoon. I am sure she would be happy in either spot, but if you have visited them, let me know which you would choose. Another option would the brand-new Cliff Lodge, a two-bedroom retreat with its own swimming pool and dining room and the latest addition to Richard Branson's Ulusaba Private Game Reserve. Apparently Christian Slater was the inaugural and very happy guest.

Further reading:
* Ulusaba's Cliff House has an opening special: Before June 30, 2009, you can stay 4 nights, pay 3 nights; stay 5 nights, pay 4 nights; or stay 7 nights, pay 5 nights. This came to us by press release, but it's not yet online, so call the property directly to inquire.
* Travel Wish List 2009

Will.i.am hangs out in Venice after a concert.
Photo: CONTOUR by Getty Images

Hip hop phenomenon-turned-actor Will.i.am has traveled from Australia to Israel as frontman of the chart-topping rap group The Black Eyes Peas. In Condé Nast Traveler's May issue, Assistant Editor Eimear Lynch spoke with the music man about his favorite beaches and hotels, and she got some underwear advice.

Top Warm-Weather Spot: "It's a toss-up between Brazil and Israel, and I'll have to go with Tel Aviv. It has great clubs, and the locals are warm, friendly, and family oriented, plus the girls are incredibly beautiful. I stay in the Dan Tel Aviv and order room service--it's always a club sandwich and soup, no matter where I go [972-3-520-2552; danhotels.com; doubles, $360-$480]."

Packing Tips: "Don't bring underwear. You don't want to be that guy with the overweight bag filled with dirty drawers. I buy a seven-pack every week while I'm traveling and throw them away after one wear. I take five pairs of jeans, three sweaters, a bunch of hats and accessories, and two tuxes--my favorites are from Yves Saint Laurent."

Hotel Perfection: "The Sydney Harbour Marriott became like a second home when I was on location for the new X-Men. It's in a great spot, near The Rocks district [61-2-9259-7000; marriott.com.au; doubles, $190$252]. The Hotel Unique, in Sao Paulo, is like a big boat in the middle of a jungle of skyscrapers [55-11-3055-4710; hotelunique.com.br; doubles, $395-$465]. And staying at the W Seoul is like being in a huge Korean BBQ joint, with a hotel club, the Living Room, that's straight out of The Jetsons [82-2-465-2222; starwoodhotels.com; doubles, $130-240]."

Best Bar: "When I was in Sydney shooting X-Men, I went to Tank Club [3 Bridge Lane] and Ivy Lounge [320-330 George St.] every weekend; those clubs turned me on to electro and dance music, which inspired the next Black Eyed Peas record."

Favorite Restaurant: "Curry House CoCo Ichibanya, in Tokyo. Curry is a favorite of mine, and they serve a Japanese style that's sweeter than Indian and Thai. It makes me feel like I'm home [24-10 Utagawacho, Shibuya-ku; 813-5459-0460; entrées, $5-$10]."

Dream Trip: "Peru. I want to go with an expert who can take me on a tour of the mountains and to Macchu Picchu."

See Will.i.am's acting debut in X-Men Origins: Wolverine, in theaters May 1.

The look of Sicily's Verdura Golf Resort & Spa.

by Ondine Cohane

Despite some recession gloom casting shadows over the hospitality sector, I am happy to see that a number of big hotel players are opening exciting new properties this year. Rocco Forte, for example, who already has properties like Rome's Hotel de Russie, London's Brown, and the Hotel Amigo in Brussels under his belt, will debut two new hotels. The Augustine will launch in Prague in the next couple of months. A former thirteenth-century monastery with vaulted ceilings and spectacular views of Prague Castle, it will get a new dose of style from Forte's design-dynamo sister, Olga Polizzi. In late May, Forte's anticipated Sicily project, Verdura Golf Resort & Spa, will open for business on the southwest part of the island with a large spa, an 18-hole Kyle Phillips-designed golf course, and six restaurants. This seaside property sits on a huge plot of land near the Valley of the Temples; it is arguably Forte's most ambitious project yet.

The Aman Group is also set for expansion this year. I am looking forward to the unveiling of the Amangiri in southern Utah: the views look jaw dropping and I like a little luxury mixed into an outdoorsy vacation. Aman has also just opened the first part of its Montenegro project--you can read more about this fascinating country in David Ebershoff's Condé Nast Traveler feature--at the Villa Milocer, once Tito's summer residence. The completion of the resort, called Aman Sveti Stefan, will come in August, when the sturdy medieval buildings that face Villa Milocer across the bay are transformed into a hotel. This part of the coast was once a glamorous seaside getaway for the likes of Richard Burton and Sophia Loren, and the property claims mile-and-a-half-long private pink-sand beaches. A side trip to UNESCO-protected Kotor is a must.

Numerous resorts have put their construction on hold until 2010 in the hope that the economy will have taken a turn for the better by then. In the meantime, I will keep you posted on those forging ahead.

The new Estancia Vik sits on an endless ranch in Uruguay's Jose Ignacio.

by Ondine Cohane

And now for some news south of the border.

I just found out that fashion designer Diesel has expanded into the hostelry business with the opening of Uxua Casa, a hotel in Trancoso on Brazil's Bahia coast. The nine one-, two- and three-bedroom cottages are right by the town's square but also just a five-minute walk to the beach. Trancoso sounds right up my alley: a barefoot chic village with just the right mix of hip but still low-key.

Another place on my wish list is Buenos Aires. Director Francis Ford Coppola has already had a second career as a hotelier with resorts in Guatemala and Belize, and now the Hollywood legend is turning his attention to Palermo Soho, the chicest neighborhood in Buenos Aires. Jardin Escondido debuted in early February with six bedrooms and a spacious studio. It sounds the perfect size for a weekend rental or a house party--the property includes a solar-heated pool, three levels of pretty gardens and an outdoor kitchen where you can sample grilled local steak.

In neighboring Uruguay, Jose Ignacio has also been on my radar (I keep hearing rumors that a Setai hotel is going to open there, but it is still a way off) and its newly opened Estancia Vik, a 4,000-acre ranch by the ocean, sounds worth a visit. The 12 suites are accessorized by the work of local Uruguayan artists and outdoor activities include riding the horses that make their home there (there is also a polo field), kite surfing, and fishing. There is even a chapel for those looking for a destination wedding site.

And in Mexico's San Miguel de Allende, one of the country's most beautiful colonial towns, Orient Express has just added Casa de Palma to its Casa de Sierra enclave. The 18th century mansion includes six suites with private plunge pools, copper tubs and flat screen TVs.

Frank Lloyd Wright's Fallingwater in Pennsylvania.
Photo: orangejack on Flickr using Creative Commons

by Ondine Cohane

It's hard to think of many architects who have influenced American design as much as Frank Lloyd Wright. To mark its 50th anniversary this May, New York's Guggenheim Museum will debut a huge retrospective of Wright's work in one of his most celebrated buildings. "Frank Lloyd Wright: From Within Outward" will showcase 62 of the projects--from the residential to the civic--that the architect tackled over his 70-plus year career, as well as a couple of hundred of his drawings, many of them on view to the public for the first time. I want to see Wright's 1957 urban revitalization model for Baghdad, which was, unfortunately, never realized. 

As I learn more about the man behind the models, though, I become increasingly interested in Wright's personal life. He was the complete opposite of his tranquil designs, full of tempestuous marriages and ugly divorces, affairs, and tragedy (one of his lovers died in a fire set by a disgruntled manservant). How fascinating that under these almost soap opera-like conditions, Wright created peaceful, decidedly harmonic buildings. If I were to plan a "Road Trip to Discovering Frank Lloyd Wright," here's how it would go:

* I'd start at Graycliff in upstate New York, with its sun-filled spaces. Supposedly, the property's former owner was losing her sight, and asked for it to be built with lots of light.

* Then on to Pennsylvania's Fallingwater, a dramatic cantilevered structure built over a waterfall.

* There would have to be a couple of stops in Chicago, where Wright lived for most of his adult life. The Frederick C. Robie House, built between 1908 and 1910, is perhaps the greatest example of the architect's Prairie style, and with its 100-year anniversary coming up, the building has undergone massive restoration. Unity Temple is considered one of the most important projects of Wright's career. And of course, his home/studio would be a must-stop. Take a look at wrightplus.org for suggested tours in town.

* Next up, Ohio's Westcott House, another Prairie-style icon. It only opened to the public in 2005, when it became a museum.

* Wright's only fully realized skyscraper, Price Tower in Bartlesville, Oklahoma, is now a museum and hotel.

* In Hollywood, Wright designed the Hollyhock House for an oil heiress (check out an excerpt from his letter on the Web site's home page). And I couldn't leave Los Angeles without seeing the Ennis House.

Any other stops I should add? Let me know.

A pause between meals: Ondine with the sun and St. Peter's Basilica at her back.

by Ondine Cohane

Just back from a quick getaway to Rome and am happy to report that the city, unsurprisingly of course, continues to be one of my favorite European capitals. The weather helped frame it in the very best light--it was one of those March days in the high 60s with sparkling sunshine--and despite being there for only about 24 hours, I made it to a couple of wonderful restaurants.

The first, in the up-and-coming neighborhood of Prati, was Settembrini, recommended by a friend who has just rented an apartment nearby. It was wonderful--intimate and well designed with a great small menu. I particularly liked the dentice, a type of white fish with buffalo mozzarella and stewed tomatoes--having fish in a caprese-like concoction was unexpected and delicious. And the wine list was as good as my friend had promised with a large range of excellent vintages under 100 euros; we sampled the cult wine Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d'Abruzzo from 1980 for just 80 euros (the producer gives artisanal new meaning).

Then the next day, after a long walk up along Passeggiata del Gianicolo with its views over the whole city, I headed down into Trastevere to Da Lucia for lunch (Vicolo del Mattonato 2, 06 580 36 01). My dear friend and fellow travel writer, Danielle Pergament, has turned the quest for a great cacio e pepe pasta (with pecorino and cracked black pepper) into a quasi religion, and although she rates Taverna Romana the very best, Da Lucia is also high on her list. Me too! And the marinated alici (anchovies) here are also exemplary. After a carafe of wine and a quick siesta, it was back on the train home to Tuscany. Perfect!

If you are heading to Rome anytime soon, read after the jump for some more of my favorite things to do.

Minetta Tavern, an oldie but goodie revamped and just reopened by restaurateur Keith McNally.
Photo: MugurM on Flickr using Creative Commons

by Ondine Cohane

I just spent two weeks in New York and, as always when in town, I ate up a storm. The city is truly a foodie paradise, and I am happy to report that despite the recession, new eateries are opening their doors at a good clip. I was struck by how crowded the best spots were, especially downtown in neighborhoods like the West Village and the Lower East Side. "If your 401K can take such a nosedive so quickly, maybe it's better to invest in a good meal that you can actually enjoy" seemed the unspoken sentiment. Most of the places that I ate weren't exorbitant, though, and the dishes were mostly unfussy, concentrating on tasty ingredients that spoke for themselves. Read after the jump for my list of the best places I dined, where I want to eat next, and a few of my perennial favorites.

Hualalai's bungalows are steps
from the beach.

by Mollie Chen

I've got honeymoons on the brain these days, because everyone I know seems to be getting married and asking for travel advice. If they are looking for a beach resort, one of my first suggestions is the Four Seasons Hualalai. I was lucky enough to stay there a couple of years ago and was completely charmed. It's a big, expensive resort in one of the world's most popular tourist destinations, but it doesn't feel like it; Hualalai is both laid-back and luxurious, with a totally genuine island vibe. If a splurge is in order (and what better time to go all out than post wedding?), there's no better place. And since even grandes dames need face-lifts every now and then, the resort is giving itself a $40 million upgrade.

The Hualalai team swung by the office last week to fill me in on the details of the renovations, which include 20 new suites, luxe tropical decor by local design guru Mary Philpotts, and a complete overhaul of the Beach Tree Bar & Grill, all to be completed by the end of April. Their renovated spa is launching in two phases: First, they're adding two swanky treatment rooms and a retail boutique. Next, they'll open four new open-air massage areas and an outdoor treatment garden where you can meditate, practice yoga, or just contemplate your navel over herbal tea and fresh fruit. The coolest part, though, is the new spa apothecary where you can customize your own salts, scrubs, and potions for your treatment from a rainbow of all-natural ingredients. A little pikake, a little hibiscus, maybe a dash of raw Maui sugar or fresh coconut flakes--blend it all up with a mortar and pestle and you're good to go.

With rack rates starting at $775, the resort isn't cheap. But it's a smart luxury--they don't nickel-and-dime you (no $10 water bottles on bedside tables) and packages let you get value for your money. Right now they're offering a fifth-night-free promotion, which knocks the average room price down.

Further reading:
* Hawaii's Hidden Values (July 2008, Condé Nast Traveler)
* Mollie finds out why Hawaii's surfers are so hot
* Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

The pool at Cartagena's La Passion hotel.

by Ondine Cohane

As I wrote back in December, Colombia was high on my travel wish list for 2009. After a recent two-week visit, I am happy to report that I liked the place as much as I had hoped. In fact, it has quickly jumped onto my favorite destinations list, and I am hoping to get back to Cartagena around the same time next year. What made it such a great trip?

First of all, the people are incredibly friendly and welcoming; they are aware that to many outsiders, the country is marred by its reputation for crime and cocaine instead of its beautiful natural attractions and wonderful hospitality--and they are quick to make an excellent impression, as well as share their favorite spots with you. Then there was the sophisticated hotel and restaurant scene with its wonderful food and converted colonial spaces. Add in that the salsa music was some of the best I have ever heard, the temperatures (especially in Cartagena) balmy, and that the place was a real deal (the Colombian peso seemed to devalue daily). What's truly exciting is seeing its transformation from one of Latin America's most blighted countries to a revitalized urban and gastronomic center. If you can only make it to one of the two cities, go with Cartagena, the sexy Caribbean hot spot by the sea. There is plenty to entertain in the capital, as well. Read after the jump for things to do if you find yourself in this rising star.