How to Find Serenity in Tokyo
Once more, with feeling: Bill Murray films take after take for a Japanese Suntory Whisky commercial in the 2003 film Lost in Translation.
Photo: Yoshio Sato, 2003 Focus Features. All Rights Reserved.
"For relaxing times, make it Suntory time": Bill Murray's catchphrase from Lost In Translation has been running through my head for the better part of a week. And with good reason. I'm in Tokyo, a city so fabulously frenetic, it's no wonder Sofia Coppola chose it as the setting for her Oscar-winning film about culture shock and alienation. During the past few days, I've shopped the trendy Omotesando Hills, trekked through Shiodome's futuristic high-rises, ate blowfish (yep, still alive), and scouted the city's most striking vistas for Conde Nast Traveler's Room With a View. After all this Times Square-like frenzy, I needed a reprieve.
Thankfully, my colleague The Materialist (as well as the always reliable Fodors) guided me to a quiet pocket of the city called Asakusa.
This tiny Edo-era neighborhood just northeast of city center is best known for its ancient Buddhist Sensoji Temple and imposing Kaminarimon gate. Check out my tips for getting the most out of your time here:
- Arrive before 10am to avoid the throngs.
- Nakamise Street runs up to the temple entrance and is lined with tiny shops. It's the perfect place to pick up reasonably priced gifts and tchotchkes (I love my new set of lacquered chopsticks).
- For lunch, head to any of the restaurants in the side streets parallel to Nakamise, where food is terrific and cheap. My lunch of delectable (and sizable) sushi with miso soup, green tea, and plum wine was less than $20. Yum!
- Throw away the guidebook and just wander. Few signs are in English, but should you feel lost in translation, the always kind locals will help you get where you want to go.
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Near Asakusa is Kappabashi Dori, a street where most of what they sell is kitchenware, but also the plastic food that you see in restaurant windows.
It's incredibly realistic, not cheap and smells chemical-y (because it's plastic) but it's a really original souvenir or gift.
Posted by: Seafarer | June 18, 2007 at 12:32 PM
You're telling me! I had to be restrained from biting the delicious (looking) food at Kappabashi.
Has anyone else stumbled on other quirky markets in Japan?
Posted by: CelebTracker | June 18, 2007 at 05:22 PM
I agree Omotesando has some fabulous shopping as well as the Daikanyama and Ebishu area. As for some fun nightlife and restaurants I would recommend Roppongi. Roppongi Hills also has great shopping too. I once carried home two samarai swords and beautiful dishes on one of my trips.
Posted by: ssoruco | June 19, 2007 at 09:59 AM
Samurai swords!? Wow, not sure I want to know how you got those through customs...
The most I've ever been able to sneak on a trans-oceanic flight was some fantastic jabugo ham from Spain. Thankfully, the sniffing dogs are of short stature.
--Beata Loyfman
Posted by: CelebTracker | June 19, 2007 at 12:07 PM