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September 07, 2007

Exploring Portugal: Porto


In return for climbing the tall bell tower of the
Igreja de Torre dos Clerigos you get sprawling
views of the entire city.

by Beata Loyfman

Cti_logoMy second week in Portugal has brought more surprises and discoveries. I'm now in Porto, the country's namesake and the capital of its famous port wine, and I can't believe that I've never visited this wonderful city before! Besides being a charming historic spot full of friendly locals, beautiful relics, and delicious food, Porto is one of the most affordable cities in Europe -- even with the plummeting dollar.

Here's proof: I'm staying at the Tryp Porto Centro, where I have a large room, daily buffet breakfast, and a parking spot for under $100 per night. The four-star Mercure Porto Batalha is likewise clean, efficient, and affordable. A cab ride to almost anywhere in Porto runs less than $15, and refreshing Super Bock beers are under $2 in every cafe.

But here's the rub: You have to be fit to tackle Porto. The city is a veritable maze of tiny winding streets, most of which are heavily graded and cobblestoned. It's no wonder there are more shoe shops in Porto than Starbucks in New York -- hiking up those hills will break even the toughest soles. But wandering here is part of the fun; it's how I found my favorite restaurant. Ribeira's brand-new Giroflee fuses traditional Portuguese dishes with Asian flavors, and there's a funky art gallery on the ground floor. My tasty three-course dinner for two with a bottle of great local wine and glasses of port cost $80. Not bad, eh?

Dsc02210 

Prosciutto and melon appetizer at Giroflee.

Of course, checking out Porto's famous wines is a must. Find out where, after the jump.

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Walk along the Avenida dos Aliados to see the city's most striking architecture.

Just across the Douro River, in a town known as Vila Nova de Gaia, you can find the major port wine cellars (or caves) with daily tastings and tours. There are many vendors here and in truth, they are all quite similar. However, I like the authentic atmosphere and friendly staff at Taylor's, which has been making port since 1692. While there, I drank wines older than me -- and they were delicious, perfect partners for hearty cheeses and rich chocolate desserts. Mmmm!

Dsc02192 
A refreshing drink at one of the cafes on the Douro River is essential.

Comments

Looks like you've been lucky with the weather, with that nice blue sky in September. Although I do prefer Lisbon, I also think Porto is a very picturesque and unique city.
I have been to the Giroflee restaurant you mentioned (it is recommended at http://www.gooporto.com )-- quite nice.
Enjoy the rest of your trip and take advantage of the sunny weather for a stroll through the gardens of the Serralves Museum :-)

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Published in June 2008. Prices and other information were accurate at press time, but are subject to change. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.
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