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February 12, 2008

The Cushy Buses of Argentina

Dogsatbusstation
So long, old friend: Wagging good-bye at the Retiro bus station in Buenos Aires.

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By Gene Pembroke

The morning Arlene and I are to leave Buenos Aires, we walk around San Telmo, then stroll a bit around the area of Puerto Madero. We think about visiting the art museum but do not. We sit under some trees and sip a soft drink called Pritty Limon and watch people. We then pick up our things and head to the Retiro bus station for our 6:50 p.m. coach to the town of Posadas in the province of Misiones. We witness a strange good-bye between two dogs, one headed out of town, the other staying in BA.

I have to talk about our double-decker bus, which might be the greatest bus of all time. I was on a similar bus in Peru once, but the service with this company, Via Bariloche, cannot be equaled. We have fully reclining seats, and I appreciate the aquamarine color scheme since it reminds me of a pop-up camper my family had back in the 1970s. We are brought what we think is dinner after we watch the film The Fountain, starring Hugh Jackman and Rachel Weisz. A few minutes later, we are offered trays of stuffed eggplant and potatoes. There is nonstop wine and soft drinks. During the second movie (Fracture, with Anthony Hopkins) the attendant goes up and down the aisle whispering "Champagne? Whiskey?" Yes and yes. This goes on until 1 a.m. We flatten our large seats and conk out as the driver smoothly negotiates the highway to the north of Argentina.

Comparing this to some bus experiences I have had in Ethiopia, India, Bolivia, Guatemala, and Eastern Europe, I almost weep.

Comments

You neglected to mention SEPTA! I've had many whiskey & champagne experiences on the 23 & 66 rtes.

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Wendy Perrin
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Published in August 2008. Prices and other information were accurate at press time, but are subject to change. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.
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