Close
Conde Nast Traveler Concierge.com
PERRINPOST.COM
Travel tips from Condé Nast Traveler magazine's Wendy Perrin. 
CODE OF ETHICS
Freebies forbidden here! You can trust me because I accept no discounts or payments from any travel company. Learn more.
GET IN TOUCH
Questions: Ask Wendy
Email: wperrin@cntraveler.com
Twitter:
perrinpost or wendyperrin
UPDATES ON TWITTER
RECENT COMMENTS
ARCHIVES
FAVORITE TRAVEL TOOLS
SITES WORTH SEEING
Alltop
Boarding Area
BootsnAll Today
The Cranky Flier
The Cruise Log
The Daily Traveler
Delicious Baby
Don's Place
Ed Perkins (Smarter Travel)
Family TravelLogue
Flyertalk
Freakonomics
The Gate
Going Places
Peter Greenberg
High Anxiety
Hotel Hotsheet
Itineraries on Portfolio.com
Joe Sent Me
Johnny Jet
Killing Batteries
Lonely Planet Travel Blog
The Middle Seat
Middle Seat Terminal
Nerd's Eye View
One Mile at a Time
Rick Seaney
Rick Steves
Seat2B
ShipCritic Blog
Soul Travelers 3
Today in the Sky
Travel Deals
Travel Savvy Mom
Treehugger
Upgrade: Travel Better
Viator Travel Blog
View From the Wing
WorldHum
TOPICS COVERED

« Tips for Travelers to Paris | Main | Traveling With Kids: The Good, the Bad, and the Really Ugly »

May 08, 2008

Paris Travel Tips, Part 2: What's Free or at Least Cheap

Paris_017p
Paris's Ile de la Cite (above) is charming at night, although my favorite Parisian island oasis is the Ile Saint Louis.
Photo: David Lefranc, Paris Tourist Office

by Wendy Perrin

Yesterday I started to answer TravelGal's question about what to do, see, and eat in Paris from her base in the Latin Quarter in late May/early June. Since the suggestions I shared can be a bit pricey, given the dollar's weakness against the euro, I promised to finish up today with a few recommendations of things to do that are cheap or even free. These tips come from one of my favorite France specialists, Howard Lewis, who is on Conde Nast Traveler's annual list of the country's best travel agents:

(1) Shop in a couple of Paris's neighborhood food markets. These outdoor markets, a tradition dating from the fifth century, reflect the local color of each of Paris's 20 arrondissements and provide great insight into French daily life. The best and most famous near the Latin Quarter is the Maubert Market (go on Tuesday, Thursday, or Saturday between 8 a.m. and  1 p.m.). Don't forget to bring a bag so you can stock up for a picnic lunch.

(2) Stroll through the historic Marais district, which is full of trendy boutiques and cafes. The best time for this is Sunday afternoon (it's a Jewish area, so many shops are closed on Saturdays).

(3) In the Marais, try the city's best falafel at L'As du Fallafel on the Rue des Rosiers. There's always a line, but the falafel is worth waiting for.

(4) While you're at the hot new Musee du Quai Branly, ogle its stunning vertical gardens designed by landscaper Patrick Blanc: The sight of 15,000 plants on a 1,000-yard vertical "vegetal wall" is stunning.

(5) Speaking of plants and flowers, when you find yourself in the 8th arrondissement, pop into the lobby of the famous Four Seasons George V so you can eye the jaw-dropping floral arrangements. They're so unusual and magnificent that other Paris hotels are now copying the designs.

Anyone else have Paris tips they'd like to share?

Comments

Wendy,
All these suggestions -- from the rather-spendy to the free -- sound wonderful! We had planned to visit the Branly, but hadn't realized it had a restaurant worth stopping for. I cant wait to check out the food market and wander through the Marais. Actually, Ill be following up on most if not all of these suggestions! Thank you, Howard Lewis, and your readers for the great suggestions. (And how did Mr. Lewis know I love falafel?!)

Great ideas! There really are endless ways to enjoy yourself in Paris for free or on little.

Just walking around the many unique neighborhoods in Paris can be fun. Heck, riding the subway and listening to the talented musicians play in the subway stations can be a treat. ;)

Walking to the top of the Arc de Triumph or just sitting on the benches nearby eating a lunch and watching the mesmerizing traffic circle and people watching.

We spent hours in Shakespeare and Company, which is an enchanting bookstore with a rich history. Great for kids and adults on a tour of the Left Bank.

One of the best kept secrets is the lovely Bois de Bologne, a huge park that use to be the hunting ground for kings.

We travel as a family on a tight budget and spent two weeks in Paris on very little not long ago and had a fantastic time. Perhaps some of our ideas might be helpful for others:

http://www.soultravelers3.com

I wrote out this low-cost itinerary last month for a friend visiting Paris for the first time...I hope it doesn't take up too much space:

-The first thing to do after dropping off your luggage at your hotel is to head for the Ile de la Cite (the urban island which is sort of shaped like a ship on the map and is where Paris as a small village started and grew outward and where Notre Dame Cathedral is located. At the prow of this "ship" on the Western end of the island you will find the Square du Vert Galant (see a city map...I don't know why they call it a square since it's triangular shaped). On the right side of this park you will find a sightseeing tour boat concession. Take this cruise. It will take you up and down the Seine past the Eiffel Tower in one direction and Notre Dame Cathedral in the other direction, lasts just over an hour, and will cost about $15. It's well worth it.

-My favorite place for brunch (no one gets up early in Paris except the dogwalkers (watch your step!) or lunch is Cosi at 54 Rue de Seine (http://www.pattylurie.com/html/cosi.html) just north of Blvd. St. Germain (Paris Metro station: Mabillon). They have the best sandwiches in the city (note: the inexpensive baguette sandwiches for takeout at any of the zillion shops scattered around the city arent bad either). Don't mistake this Cosi for an expensive restaurant also in Paris called Le Cosi.
Across the street from Cosi is a great seafood restaurant by the same owner called Fish.

-See St Chapelle and the Conciergerie (they're right next to each other) on the Ile de la Cite off Blvd. St. Michel (not far from the Sq.de Vert Galant mentioned in item #1). St. Chapelle has the most incredible stained glass windows. The Conciergerie was the prison where all the condemned glitterati of the French Revolution (Marie Antoinette, Danton, Robespierre. etc.) were housed before being carted off to La Guillotine at the Place de la Concorde (some interesting asides: the guillotine apparatus was invented by one Dr. Guillotine as a more humane method of execution than having an executioner chop off your head with an axe (often the first blow wasnt successful)&the wealthy residents living in the vicinity of the Place de la Concorde frequently complained about the stench of death wafting over the neighborhood...the condemned prisoners were carted from the Conciergerie to the Place de la Concorde in oxen-pulled carts called tumbrils; residents would crowd the streets to watch the procession.

-While you're in the area get a takeout lunch at the Marche St. Germain (a large indoor food hall and produce mart) a block away from the Mabillon Metro Station. There's also a great corner pizza place (don't remember the name but you can't miss it) on Rue le Clement across the street from the Marche St. Germain. Also nearby is St. Sulpice, the cathedral that figured prominently in the Da Vinci Code.

-See the St. Germain des Pres Cathedral (if I recall correctly its the oldest cathedral in Paris). Its located on Blvd. St. Germain at Rue Bonaparte. Have an aperitif with the ghosts of Jean Paul Sartre and Pablo Picasso at nearby Brasserie Lipp. Also at this same intersection see the curious erupting sidewalk sculpture.

-See the Musee D'Orsay (located next to the river Seine across from the Tuileries Gardens between the Eiffel Tower and the St Germain areas. Metro Station: Gare D'Orsay). It's located in an old railroad station and was designed by Gae Aulenti the architect of the Asian Art Museum in S.F. See also the ultramodern Beauborg Museum (also more formally known as the Centre Pompidou on the Right Bank in the Marais area.

-My favorite English speaking hangout is the Shakespeare & Co. Bookstore on the Rue la Bucherie right across the river (Left Bank) from Notre Dame Cathedral.

-Wander thru the narrow streets of the Latin Quarter north of the Sorbonne to get a feeling of the old Paris and follow Rue Descartes and Rue Mouffetard down to Place de la Contrescarpe (another Hemingway hangout near his old residence at 74 Rue Cardinal Le Moin).

-Pere Lachaise is the most famous cemetery in Paris and has most of the famous historical characters (Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, even Jim Morrison of The Doors) but I find the Montparnasse Cemetery equally interesting (many of the French New Wave film stars and writers such as Jean Seberg, Jean Paul Belmondo, Delphine Seyrig, Marguerite Duras, etc. as well as Jean Paul Sartre and Simone de Beavoir live there).

-Montparnasse is my favorite neighborhood in Paris. It's less touristy and was a hangout for the artists and writers of Hemingway's era. Have a coffee or an aperitif at the Closerie des Lilas.

-Wander the streets of Monmartre around Sacre Coeur (the white cathedral on the hill in the northern part of Paris, and the neat stairs that lead up to it).

-If you get a chance, see the 18th century catacombs under the city (entrance near Place Denfert Rochereau; Metro Station Denfert Rochereau) which were created to relocate the smelly remains overcrowding Paris ground level cemeteries.

Have a good trip!!

Some of my favorite free Paris things are:

1. Picnics on the Champs du Mars in front of the Eiffel Tower,Luxembourg or Tuileries Gardens

2. Stroll the banks of the Seine, both day and night. Each gives a very different feel to the city and the monuments. Cross and linger on the bridges. It doesn't get any better than this.

4. Watch a sunset from the tip of the Vert Galant.

3. Make your way to the Marché Aligre. It is a wonderful market.

4. And though not free, spring for a Seine cruise on the Les Vedettes du Pont Neuf. Go to http://www.vedettesdupontneuf.com/for an on-line coupon

These are awesome!

I've been wondering how to handle that first day when we arrive early in the morning on an international flight. Some low-key touring via foot and boat sounds just right.

I'd like to spend a day at Versailles (I'm into gardens, so would visit more than just the palace). Any recommendations for how to best get around out there and where to take a lunch break?

Great website, Soultravelers3!

Thanx 4 shearing with us..
Adeel Khan sherwani from Atlanta

wow what a trip..
Adeel Khan Sherwani from Austin

Thanx 4 Shearing with us...
Adeel Khan Sherwani from Dallas

Thanks for the kind mention
Adeel Khan Sherwani from Houston

Intresting..
Adeel Khan Sherwani from New York

I also agree with what is written.
Adeel Khan Sherwani from Chicago

Pleasure! Thanks for dropping by.

Cheers,
Adeel Khan Sherwani from Los Angeles

Thanks for the kind mention
Adeel Khan Sherwani from Nashville

thanx 4 telling us..
Adeel Khan Sherwani from Seattle

I also agree with what is written.
Adeel Khan Sherwani from Las Vegas

I also agree with what is written.
Adeel Khan Sherwani from Miami

click to post a comment >
Prices and other information were accurate at press time, but are subject to change. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.

EXPRESS SIGN-UP Sign up for one of our exciting panels and receive the latest news, travel offers, and event invitations from Condé Nast Traveler and our valued advertising partners.

http://www.cntpromo.com/ex.asp
Traveler Magazine

My Concierge.com

Advertisement

Advertisement

I understand and agree that registration on or use of this site constitutes agreement to its User Agreement, Privacy Policy, and Mobile Terms and Conditions.

 
iPhone App:

Create personalized postcards out of your favorite travel photos!

Learn More ›
Subscribe to our free RSS feeds:

Get the latest destinations picks, hot hotel lists, travel deals and blog posts automatically added to your newsreader or your personalized homepage.

Learn More ›

Special Advertisement

Contests & Sweepstakes