
Photo: Robert Polidori, Conde Nast Traveler
By Wendy Perrin
Question from a reader:
"My husband and I are planning our first trip overseas, hoping to spend a week or so in Northern Italy--definitely Venice and the Cinque Terre, possibly Lake Como and Torino. This was supposed to be our honeymoon--now almost 4 years late! We do not want to go on a tour because of cost, but we're not sure where to start in planning this ourselves. I have a bunch of questions as to when we should go, when we should shop for airfare, and how to find inexpensive but clean lodging. We want to maximize our brief trip by minimizing our time waiting in lines. Additionally, we did not plan on renting a car but rather using trains and other public transportation; is this a good idea? We'd like to keep our costs down so we can travel again in 2008." Anne Rollins
First of all, since you have only a week and you're training it, I recommend limiting your trip to Venice and the Cinque Terre. Believe me, all those canals and museums and islands and fishing villages will keep you plenty busy. If you try to work in Lake Como and Torino too, you'll spend too much time in transit and only end up frustrated.
Second, I assume you want to fly into Venice and out of Milan, or vice versa. The cheapest air fares are in low season--November through March--but you'll probably want to wait till the spring, when it's warmer and daylight lasts longer, so you can pack in more sightseeing. Consider April: Air fares are lower than in summer, and Italy is not as crowded with tourists as it is in May. Since I don't know which city you're flying from, it's hard to advise you about the smartest way to fly. You might go to a site called Itasoftware.com to suss out your best route and fare options. (You can't book through Itasoftware; it's simply a comprehensive, unbiased search engine.) Then go to the site of whichever airline offers the route and fare you prefer.
Third, a great source for small inexpensive hotels in Italy is Venere.com. Another reason for April: Most hotels don't switch to high-season rates till May. For a great description of Venice in April on Italy del Giorno, one of my favorite Italy blogs, click here.
As for taking the train, I forwarded your query to my friend Colette Carmeris, who lives in the Cinque Terre town of Monterosso three months of the year and never rents a car. She takes the train all over Italy and, in fact, met up with me on two of my three trips there last year. Colette's advice:
"Definitely take the train! It's a real bargain in Italy, compared with train prices in the U.S. Trenitalia will give you schedules for trains from Venice to Cinque Terre via Milano Centrale. I recommend reserving seats in advance (which means you must buy your tickets at least one day before you travel). Trying to negotiate tickets at the train station can be challenging if you don't speak Italian, and the lines can be madness, so just go to an American Express travel agency in Venice and buy your tickets there.
A good time to go would be at the end of March or start of April, when the weather has warmed up. By the end of March, the boats are running between the Cinque Terre from Monterosso to Portovenere. It's a great way to see the towns because you can jump off and back on the boats all day long. They run every hour.
Most people staying in the Cinque Terre seem to love Vernazza, although one of my favorite towns is Camogli--a wonderful little harbor village about half an hour north of Monterosso with lots of interesting shops, art galleries, and seafront restaurants."
Anyone else have a tip for Anne? If so, click on "Comments" below.