"I've been searching for a cruise focusing on the Southern/Eastern Mediterranean and Northern Africa," writes Inna Tarasula. "While some ships do make stops at the ports of Alexandria, Port Said, Casablanca, Tunis, Tangier, Tripoli, Banghazi, Valletta, Iraklion, and Limassol, usually the itineraries include only one of these fascinating places, mixed in with more conventional destinations. Is there a cruise that travels exclusively to the Southern Mediterranean?"

Good question. I too have found that most cruise ships sailing in the Med call at only one or two of these interesting ports at most, and it's a damn shame. Usually you need to look at the smaller ships with an educational-touring bent, such as Swan Hellenic (see this North African itinerary, for instance). Any of you cruise junkies out there have a suggestion for Inna?  Thanks!

My family and I found the right vacation for our needs onboard the Norwegian Gem, March 2008.

If you recall the Top Ten Things My Husband Loved About Our Recent Cruise, published here three months ago, you may remember that I could give only my husband Tim's perspective on our family vacation, since I wasn't allowed to reveal details from my article coming out in Conde Nast Traveler's August issue.  Well, now that the August issue has hit the newsstands, you can read the article and find out why the cruise I chose for my family last winter ended up being the perfect vacation for the exhausted mother of inexhaustible four- and six-year-old boys.

Seeking the right cruise for your needs?  If you're on Facebook, you can use our new Conde Nast Traveler's Cruise Ship Finder application. The magazine now has a fan page on Facebook too. I just added both to my Facebook profile. Check them out!

Can anybody help answer this question posted by Milana Z.?

"You are officially my new favorite discovery! My husband and I are in our early thirties and have two small children (one is 1 year old, and the other will be 3 in October). My idea of a perfect vacation is the ocean, my favorite black bikini, and a stiff drink. Since having my wonderful babies, this has become increasingly hard to accomplish! We want to take a cruise. Are my kids really welcome only on Disney Cruise Line? And, if so, how much "alone time" can me and my husband really get? Is there any luxury at all? I have been doing my research online and have read great reviews of Crystal Cruise Line. Could that be an option? We want to leave out of California. Could you recommend any savvy travel agents? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!"

Milana, I can totally relate and promise I'll get to this within the next few days! Meanwhile, does anyone else have advice for Milana?

Here's one from veloskil:

"We are planning a cruise to the Mediterranean, starting in Barcelona, in June of 2009. Is it better to book your airfare through the cruise line or get it on your own? Also, is it better to book shore excursions through the cruise line or have a travel agent book them?
Thanks, Lori"

Might any of you frequent cruisegoers have advice for Lori?

Another question I have no time to answer. Lori asks:

"What do you think of booking a cruise with a travel agency that is based in Canada? I found that the incentives (shipboard credits and discounts) to book through this agency are better than any agency I have found in the USA. I just want to make sure I am protected in the same manner in making this booking/purchase. Thanks in advance, Lori"

Actually, I DO have time for a quick answer: It depends on which travel agency! (Lori, who are you thinking of booking with?) But I DON'T have time to go into the nitty-gritty of what consumer protections you get in the U.S. versus in Canada.  Anyone want to chime in?

The pool deck during my family vacation onboard the Norwegian Gem last month.

by Wendy Perrin

Yesterday I mentioned that I already spent my tax rebate . . . on a cruise. In actuality my vacation, onboard Norwegian Cruise Line's new It Girl, cost a helluva lot more than any rebate check I'm gonna get, but that's because I opted for one of the few ships sailing out of New York City (our backyard) in winter and because I splurged on a "mini-suite" with a balcony. And boy, was it worth every cent.

That's me and the kids on our cabin balcony in New York Harbor, March 15, 2008. We loved getting to the warm weather of Florida and the Bahamas without having to get on a plane.

As I wrote the other day, I don't think mammoth cruise ships are the best vehicle for seeing Europe's world-class sights and absorbing its culture. I DO think they're a great way for exhausted parents to get some R&R. For this particular vacation, you see, our goal was not sightseeing. Our goal was sleep. That meant we needed a ship with (1) a great child-care program in which to park the boys, (2) sports facilities for exhausting the two little Energizer Bunnies, and (3) a been-there-done-that itinerary, so we wouldn't feel pressure to race around each port trying to see as much as possible in our limited time.

The water slide was key: It allowed us to exhaust the whirling dervishes with minimal exertion on our part.

I can't tell you more about our cruise because it would give away my article in Conde Nast Traveler's upcoming August issue. My husband, Tim, has therefore graciously offered up the top ten reasons why HE loved the cruise. After the jump, a husband's perspective.

I snapped this pic onboard the Silver Whisper in the port of Valencia, Spain, last summer. Cruises can be fun for sure, but your experience of Europe won't be as rich or as authentic as when you're staying on land.

by Wendy Perrin

This post will incur hate mail from cruise lines, travel agents whose livelihood is based on selling cruises, and travel publications -- from The New York Times to Travel & Leisure  -- that have been serving as mouthpieces for the cruise industry lately, but I wouldn't be doing my job if I didn't warn Conde Nast Traveler readers about a serious misperception that is now sweeping across the Internet like a house on fire. 

The misperception is that, because you pay in U.S. dollars and thus lock in a dollar price well in advance, European cruises represent a particularly economical way to see Europe.  As someone who has taken four Mediterranean cruises within the past eight years and was just in Europe two months ago, sightseeing in Spain, I am here to tell you that (1) even with the weak dollar, there are much cheaper ways to see Europe than on a cruise, and (2) likening the sightseeing experience you get staying in hotels to the sightseeing experience you get on a conventional large-ship seagoing cruise is like comparing apples and kumquats.

The four-bedroom villa (with private pool) that I just rented in Spain costs $2,136 for a week in May or June (the best months to go); since it sleeps eight people, that makes the cost $38 per person per night. Meanwhile, Travel & Leisure 's article on why a European cruise represents a nifty bargain recommends a cruise that costs $385 per person per night. The $385 "all-inclusive" rate includes NEITHER the cost of sightseeing NOR transportation from the pier to the place where you want to do the sightseeing (which can easily be more than an hour away and reachable only by expensive taxi or expensive ship-arranged group tour). And The New York Times claims that your dollar stretches even farther because "you can also pay for onboard purchases like spa treatments and shore excursions in dollars."  But any savvy traveler who has cruised knows that shore excursions (the aforementioned ship-arranged group tours) are ridiculously overpriced; the cruise lines build in enormous mark-ups for themselves. Once you factor in the prices of shore excursions and other onboard purchases, your cruise can end up costing double what you paid in advance.

Royal Caribbean's revolutionary new ship will contain a park the length of a football field.
Rendering: Royal Caribbean International

by Wendy Perrin

Three years after the folks at Royal Caribbean first dreamed it up, the secret is out. At the center of its latest and greatest ship, which will be the world's largest when it is unveiled in late 2009, will sit an outdoor park, open to the sky, containing tropical flower gardens and walkways and lined with boutiques, bars, restaurants for dining alfresco, and five decks of cabins (four with balconies) overlooking the gardens. There will even be a moving bar, called Rising Tide, that ascends and descends between Deck 5 and Deck 8 where the park will be. 

At a press conference I just attended here in NYC, the cruise line's chairman and CEO, Richard Fain, discussed how there will be seven distinct "neighborhoods" onboard the ship; Central Park is only the first of them (but we need to wait till June 18 to find out about the others). While cruising with 5,400 other passengers is not exactly my idea of a walk in the park, I have to admit that I'm really looking forward to seeing this "architectural marvel." Click on this cool video to see the plans yourself.

At night Central Park's piazza is expected to serve as the ship's "town square," with evening entertainment such as concerts and street performances.
Rendering: Royal Caribbean International

A cruise ship arriving in Istanbul, seen from the Dolmabahce Palace.
Photo: Brigitte Lacombe, Conde Nast Traveler

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Mguyor:

"We are flying into Istanbul and out of Rome for a cruise. For both cities, can you tell me how far it is from the airport to the hotel district and from there to the seaport, and recommend a few four-star hotels and perhaps a tour operator for each?"

I sure can. For Istanbul, I'd suggest that you contact Karen Fedorko of Sea Song Tours, who's based in that city (fedorko@seasong.com). She tells me that the following four-star hotels are about 45 minutes from the airport, and 15 to 20 minutes from the port: the Marmara Pera in the Beyoglu district, the Nippon Hotel in Taxim, and the Lamartine in Taxim. Karen can arrange all sorts of things for your precruise stay. In fact, we wrote about the private dinner in the Topkapi Palace's Imperial Room -- which is normally reserved for the prime minister and his guests -- that Karen can set up in Conde Nast Traveler's 2007 Dream List, which you can find in our December issue.

Click below for advice on Italy.

Olga over the eastern tip of the Dominican Republic, Dec. 11, 2007.
Photo: NOAA Caribbean

by Wendy Perrin

Two cruise news items yesterday -- Subtropical Storm Olga's effect on ships in the Caribbean and the cruise-ship collision off Uruguay--highlight one of the big advantages, and at the same time one of the big drawbacks, of vacationing at sea: Ships often change their itineraries at the last minute. 

This is a good thing if it means you can easily skirt bad weather or unforeseen nasty situations in places along your itinerary. But it's a bad thing if you chose a cruise because you wanted to see specific places and then you find out midway through your trip that you won't be seeing them and you're owed nothing in the way of a refund.

Yesterday Norwegian Cruise Lines' Norwegian Dream collided with a barge in the harbor of Montevideo, Uruguay. As I read on Cruise Critic -- one of my favorite sources of cruise info -- this stranded both the Norwegian Dream and Celebrity Cruises' Infinity in Montevideo harbor, and it halted Orient Lines' Marco Polo outside the entrance to the harbor. So far, two of the three ships had to change their itinerary: The Marco Polo skipped Montevideo, heading straight to Buenos Aires, and the Norwegian Dream canceled stops at Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands and Puerto Madryn in Argentina. Norwegian Cruise Line gave its passengers a $150 shipboard credit to make up for the two missed ports. That's nice, I guess -- given that cruise lines are not obligated to compensate passengers for skipped ports -- but if I were on a cruise around Cape Horn and had to miss both the Falkland Islands and Argentine Patagonia, it would take a helluva lot more than $150 worth of shipboard margaritas to make me feel whole again.

The Chase Suite Hotel in Tampa has economical packages for cruisers.
Photo: Woodfin Suites Hotels

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Carolynjweber:

"Our son is going on a cruise out of Tampa in a couple of weeks. He has been told that some area hotels will let you use their parking facilities for the duration of the cruise if you are their guest the night before your departure. The only three we have been able to locate are rated poorly (dirty, dangerous area, etc.) or cost as much in transportation as the parking does at the port. Do you know of any that don't have either of these problems?"

I asked Linda Allen  of Cruises by Linda, who specializes in affordable large ships (like the ones that depart out of Tampa) and is on Conde Nast Traveler's annual list of the world's best travel planners.

She suggested the Chase Suite Hotel's Ship & Shore package. For $199, you get one night in a suite, parking at the hotel, and transportation to and from the cruise port. The hotel gets a rating of 4 out of 5 on TripAdvisor, so fellow travelers generally haven't been disappointed.

Does Costa Cruises really want Americans on their ships?
Photo: Costa Cruises

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader 7ContinentKaren:

"My husband and I would like to go on a Feb 2, 2008 Indian Ocean cruise on the Costa Marina. However, Costa Cruises is being very weird and I was hoping you could get a straight answer from them. Their website directly addresses American passengers with a price in U.S. dollars, but then says you have to book over the phone, not online. When I called, the strange stories began: Only Europeans can go on this ship, only Germans can go on this ship, this ship is sold out, American travel agents cannot book this ship. Can you get to the bottom of this?"

Its always odd when you get the run-around from a company that you're trying to give a large amount of money to. I asked cruise expert Richard Turen, of Churchill & Turen, to look into this for you. Here's what he told me:

"Costa is an Italian brand that was purchased by the Carnival Corporation. It's an overseas subsidiary with all marine operations run out of Genoa, Italy. When non-U.S. itineraries are listed by foreign-managed cruise lines, their offices in the U.S. are given a specific allotment of cabins to sell. When that allotment is gone, the sailing is, in effect, unavailable to U.S. residents."

To find out what this means for this particular case, read on.

This photo, shot by a reader and submitted to our Dream Trip contest, captures the view from a cruise ship between Sitka and Frederick Sound.

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Johnsalmon:

"I am planning a trip to Alaska for late August. The original concept was to fly to Anchorage, rent a car, and drive to various sites, mostly in the interior (where I lived for three years as a child in the 1950s). However, I'm now wondering if it is possible to fly to Seattle or Vancouver and take a cruise one-way to the Anchorage area. From there I'd pick up a car, take my interior drive, and eventually fly home. I'd like to see the inland passage, glaciers, etc., if possible."

Actually, your options aren't limited if you're looking for a one-way cruise to Alaska -- most of the major lines run such itineraries. I asked Margret Propper of Brownell Travel, an Alaska expert on Conde Nast Traveler's list of the world's best travel planners, for some advice. She said:

"The cruises that depart out of Seattle do not go all the way to Anchorage, so I would suggest a cruise from Vancouver to Whittier or Seward. You can then take the cruise line's transfer inland to Anchorage, arriving at about noon, and either overnight there or pick up a car and drive north. It might be better to fly out of Fairbanks rather than Anchorage if you are planning to travel as far as Denali National Park -- from there, it's a shorter drive to continue north."

Read on for Margret's tips on choosing the right cruise line.

"Did you pack your bags yourself?" "Are you kidding? I had my lawyer do it."
Photo: Corbis

by Stephan Wilkinson

I have a simple black T-shirt bearing the legend, in red, white and blue, "01.20.09 BUSH'S LAST DAY." Note to self: Don't ever pack it on an airline or cruise trip, or on a drive through any border crossing where the Fedskis are liable to inspect my bags. The Washington Post has just reported that the Department of Homeland Security is collecting information on travelers carrying anything, accent on anything, that might be deemed suspicious, to a far greater degree than was previously thought. This information will be stored for up to 15 years (which should be long enough to get the camps up and running) in order to identify the malcontents, terrorists, wrong-thinkers, and various security threats among us.

Apparently there's something called the Automated Targeting System, which digests terabytes of data to pinpoint risky travelers trying to enter the country. Now when they swipe your passport through the reader, they're not just looking for your rap sheet but for evidence of . . . well, who knows? San Francisco civil liberties activist John Gilmore recently discovered that the government was storing for a decade and a half the information that he once carried aboard a flight a book titled Drugs and Rights and small flashlights bearing a stylized marijuana-leaf symbol.

What not to carry, ever: a biography of Lenin. The Koran. That copy of Juggs that you picked up at the airport newsstand. A Rasta hat. Anything that says Cuba. A Graydon Carter editorial. Your entire collection of Barbra Streisand photos. A Pete Seeger CD. The Whole Earth Catalog. Your favorite Che T-shirt.

Why do I think it's gonna get worse before it gets better?

Regent Seven Seas' Voyager is one of the more teen-friendly of the luxury cruise ships.
Photo: Regent Seven Seas

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Heidi6:

"I am looking for a very upscale, sophisticated cruise suitable for my husband, our two teenagers, and me. Is there a ship that can accommodate the adults, who like a quiet, small ship, and the teens, who would like some other teens to hang around with? We can go either over Christmas or between February 15 and 24."

The most luxurious cruise lines tend to have the oldest clientele, but I asked small-ship cruise expert Richard Turen of Churchill & Turen for some advice. He agreed:

"There is no such animal as a teen-friendly five-star cruise experience. Although their brochures will not state it, the luxury brands consider a generally child-free environment one of the advantages of small-ship cruising.

Assuming your teens are generally self-sufficient, I would recommend that you look at Regent Seven Seas as the highest-quality line that will come closest to your requirements. You'll have an increased likelihood of finding other families traveling together over Christmas or New Years, less so in February.

More from Richard, after the jump.

When you get sick mid-cruise, can you get your money back?
Photo: Princess Cruises

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Lorettafaymonville:

"I recently took a Princess cruise from Honolulu to Tahiti with my 18-year-old-son. On the second day, Alex developed severe stomach pains and nausea. The ship's doctor said that she 'could make a good case for isolating him' but gave him 'the benefit of a doubt.' She told him not to touch railings, elevator buttons, or food tongs. I knew that if he showed more symptoms of the dreaded norovirus, he would be isolated. We were facing two days at sea, one day at Christmas Island, and two more days at sea before reaching the Society Islands. I decided to disembark in Hilo. I had to pay $600 to do so. (The next day, a doctor told us that we'd made the right decision.) We did not have travel insurance. Do we have any chance of getting Princess to reimburse us for the portion of the cruise we missed?"

You made a gesture of goodwill in voluntarily disembarking to avoid sickening other passengers, and your only hope is that the cruise line will act similarly. But don't hold your breath. Since the doctor didn't officially order you to leave the ship, Princess is not required to reimburse you for the portion of the trip you missed. I would start by faxing or mailing a formal request to the cruise line for a future cruise credit (which they're much more likely to provide than a cash reimbursement).

In the future, try to get as much information down in writing as possible; in this case, a note from the ship's doctor may well have helped you plead your case.

If your cruise line books a hotel for you in Venice, make sure you know what you're getting.
Photo: Michael McDermit, Conde Nast Traveler

by Brook Wilkinson

If you book a pre- or post-cruise tour for your family through your cruise line, take note of the room setup being offered on both land and sea. Just because you have a four-person cabin on the ship doesn't mean that you'll all be allowed to share the same room on shore. And two rooms with two young children means that you and your spouse will have to sleep in separate rooms.

This useful piece of advice came to me from Linda Allen, a cruise specialist recommended by Conde Nast Traveler. She just alerted me to the fact that Royal Caribbean and many other lines automatically put a four-person party in two separate hotel rooms, even if they're sharing a cabin on board. Family-friendly arrangements are particularly hard to find in Europe, where few hotels have connecting rooms or rooms with two beds. Be sure to talk this over with your cruise planner (we listed our favorites in the August issue) so that you can plan accordingly.

The Regent Seven Seas Mariner plies Alaska's waters all summer long.
Photo: Regent Seven Seas

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Michael in Gallipolis, Ohio:

"My wife and I are planning our 25th anniversary trip for next June/August 2008. We have always wanted to take an Alaska cruise and inland excursion. Any advice on what to do, what to expect (costwise), and recommendations for the best trip of our lives?"

The best trip of our lives, huh? No pressure! Not to worry, I have just the person to help you: Margret Propper of Brownell Travel, who's been to Alaska -- on both land and sea -- more than 40 times. Here's what she recommends for you:

"Fly to Anchorage and drive 40 miles south to the lovely Alyeska Resort in Girdwood. The next day take a helicopter tour to a glacier and drive or ride with a dog team across the glacier -- perhaps celebrating with a glass of champagne and an anniversary photo with the dog team (possible Christmas card!). That evening, have a special anniversary dinner at the resort's Seven Glaciers Restaurant, which is accessibly only by cable car. You can really see seven glaciers! The next day...

Cruise ships offer a wide enough range of activities to keep multi-generational groups happy.
Photo: Regent Seven Seas Cruises

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Carol2:

"We are trying to come up with an idea for a family reunion to celebrate our parents' 55th wedding anniversary this Christmas. Our ages span from 12 to 79. Five years ago we went to Club Med in Punta Cana. We would like to consider someplace else, or even a cruise. Any suggestions?"

Fifty-five years together certainly merits a celebration! I sent your request over to Mary Ann Ramsey of Betty Maclean Travel, who's a whiz when it comes to multi-generational trips. She seconds your interest in a cruise, and even has a particular itinerary in mind:

"Since they like warm weather and have been to a resort before, a cruise would be a great option. I would recommend a Tahiti cruise on Regent Seven Seas' Paul Gauguin. The Society Islands are so beautiful and offer all ages a fantastic and memorable experience."

In fact, there's a 7-night French Polynesian itinerary that leaves from Papeete on December 22nd. How does Christmas on Bora Bora sound to you?

So, why is this itinerary such a great choice for your group, you ask?

You'd be crazy to drive a scooter alongside these natives on Rome's
cobblestone streets, but guided scooter tours will take you through
the nearby countryside.
Photo: Marco Pesaresi, Contrasto, Redux Pictures

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Veloskil:

"We are taking a Mediterranean cruise with our teenagers. We were hoping to rent scooters at some ports and explore that way. Are there guided tours using scooters in Barcelona, Palermo, Naples, Civitavecchia, La Spezia, Marseille, or Villefranche?"

What a great idea, Veloskil! Scooters are an inexpensive, green, and hip way to explore foreign cities. Even better, you'll blend in with the locals. Your itinerary gives you a number of opportunities to sightsee on two wheels:

In Barcelona, Cooltra offers a number of scooter tours. Since their groups need no more than 4 people, your family can customize a tour to see exactly the sights you want at no extra cost. There are also scooter rental agencies in Palermo, Naples, and La Spezia, but they don't offer guided tours so you're best off booking with Andrea Grisdale of IC Bellagio, who can arrange for the scooters as well as an English-speaking tour guide. From Civitavecchia, Paolo Apolloni will take you to his hometown of Segni, outside Rome.

Just one piece of advice, Veloskil: Wear a helmet!

It's difficult--and expensive--to disembark from a cruise ship at sea, short of hijacking a lifeboat.
Photo: wikipedia.org

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Nantippe:

I asked cruise agent Richard Turen of Churchill & Turen if this was possible. He told me that "a helicopter transfer costing as much as $25,000 would be required, along with a great deal of paperwork." For more of his knowing advice, read on.

On ships like Celebrity Cruises' Constellation, onboard purchases are charged to your shipboard account. If you want cash for port visits, however, the handiest source may be the ship's ATM.

by Wendy Perrin

Attention, cruisegoers: Conde Nast Traveler reader Gary Miller of Chino, CA, has sent in a nifty tip in response to my July Perrin Report about cruise costs and how the total bill for your cruise vacation can end up being quite a bit higher than anticipated:

"I read your article on extra charges on cruises and have a tip for avoiding high shipboard ATM fees: Most passengers open their shipboard account with a credit card. Go to the casino and ask for a cash advance on your shipboard account. The advance will go on your credit card, with no fee involved. When your credit-card statement arrives, the advance will be incorporated into one single charge from the cruise line. Just pay your bill on time and avoid fees and interest."

Anybody else got any clever tips for eluding unnecessary shipboard charges?

When my Caribbean cruise ship called at overrun St. Thomas, I fled to nearby Jost Van Dyke in the British Virgin Islands, February 16, 2007.

by Wendy Perrin

I've been reading a lot lately about how the Caribbean has lost much of its allure for cruisegoers. It's why Caribbean sailings are so cheap (demand can't meet supply) and why cruise-line CEOs are wringing their hands over the weak Caribbean market.  Now, I'm no propagandist for Caribbean cruises -- as anyone who remembers the sad saga of my last Caribbean cruise knows (and if you don't, you can read the full story of my ill-fated adventure in Conde Nast Traveler's August 2007 issue) -- but I am here to tell you that if you want to explore a destination by cruise ship, you're better off in the Caribbean than in most other parts of the world where the big ships cruise.

As someone who has six Caribbean sailings under her belt (all were work assignments), as well as another six elsewhere in the world (three in the Mediterranean, one from Peru down to Ushaia, one in the Galapagos Islands, and one on the Yangtze River), I can assure you that:

(1) The Caribbean is the region where it's easiest to do your own independent thing in port, rather than being herded around inefficiently as part of the ship's group-tour shore excursions.
That's because the infrastructure in Caribbean ports is great.  Everything you need -- taxi hire, car rental, a cybercafe -- is right near where the ship docks. In Conde Nast Traveler's August issue I advise precisely how to organize your independent sightseeing activities so as to get the max out of any port of call.

When our ship called at St. Lucia, we explored scenic parts of the island a long way from the pier and had lunch at secluded Ladera Resort. This was our lunchtime view, February 13, 2007.

When your cruise ship docks in St. Petersburg, Russia, visit the Grand Palace (above) and much more by customizing your own private shore excursion.
Photo: Medioimages, Alamy Images

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader JudyB1:

"We will be traveling to Northern Europe on a Celebrity ship on August 18th for 14 days. We are overwhelmed by the land packages offered by the cruise line. It has been recommended to us that we share a driver and van with other couples in many of the countries. How can we connect with others on the same cruise who might be interested?"

You're smart to look beyond the cruise line's shore excursions, Judy. By customizing your own excursion with a smaller group, you'll waste less time being herded on and off the ship, see exactly what you want to see, and possibly save some money too.

A number of cruise aficionado websites have what they call "Roll Calls," which allow members who are booked on the same cruise to meet one another electronically prior to the sailing. You can find Celebrity Roll calls on Cruise Critic, Cruise Addicts, Cruisemates,  Cruise Line Fans, and Cruise Journals. You can either look for threads related to your cruise dates and itinerary or start your own, and once you find some like-minded fellow guests, propose sharing the costs of a semi-private shore excursion.

Positano clings to a cliff on Italy's Amalfi Coast. Visit this beautiful town while your cruise ship is docked in Naples.
Photo: Jonathan Smith, Lonely Planet Images

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader CRH:

"We are taking a Mediterranean cruise in a few weeks and are disappointed with the shore excursions offered by the cruise line, Holland America. Do you have any recommendations for shore excursions companies that are reputable? We are particularly interested in customizing our experiences in Livorno and Naples. We have a wide age range -- 10-80 years -- and the 80-year-old has some mobility issues (not in a wheelchair, but can't walk far)."

I can't speak highly enough of Andrea Grisdale, whose company, IC Bellagio, arranges travel itineraries, books villas and apartments (Andrea is on Conde Nast Traveler's annual list of the world's best villa rental agents), and organizes cruise shore excursions.

I asked Andrea what she'd recommend for your group in the places you mentioned, and here are her suggestions:

Catherine Zeta-Jones can't contain her fabulousness as she lounges in the Louis Vuitton yacht during the 32nd America's Cup sailing competition in Valencia, Spain.   

By Beata Loyfman

If you've been following the race for geographical supremacy currently raging on the WHERE'S WENDY? contest, you know that our intrepid leader Wendy Perrin has recently sailed to the Mediterranean shores of Valencia, in eastern Spain.

What you may not know is that Wendy's seaside neighbors were Hollywood royalty Catherine Zeta-Jones and Michael "Lucky Dog" Douglas. The pair joined Prince Albert of Monaco in a VVVIP yacht off Valencia's coast to watch the action of the 32nd annual America's Cup regatta. Hey Wendy, did Catherine invite you on