Paris's Ile de la Cite (above) is charming at night, although my favorite Parisian island oasis is the Ile Saint Louis.
Photo: David Lefranc, Paris Tourist Office

by Wendy Perrin

Yesterday I started to answer TravelGal's question about what to do, see, and eat in Paris from her base in the Latin Quarter in late May/early June. Since the suggestions I shared can be a bit pricey, given the dollar's weakness against the euro, I promised to finish up today with a few recommendations of things to do that are cheap or even free. These tips come from one of my favorite France specialists, Howard Lewis, who is on Conde Nast Traveler's annual list of the country's best travel agents:

(1) Shop in a couple of Paris's neighborhood food markets. These outdoor markets, a tradition dating from the fifth century, reflect the local color of each of Paris's 20 arrondissements and provide great insight into French daily life. The best and most famous near the Latin Quarter is the Maubert Market (go on Tuesday, Thursday, or Saturday between 8 a.m. and  1 p.m.). Don't forget to bring a bag so you can stock up for a picnic lunch.

(2) Stroll through the historic Marais district, which is full of trendy boutiques and cafes. The best time for this is Sunday afternoon (it's a Jewish area, so many shops are closed on Saturdays).

The nexus of Place de la Concorde, Rue de Rivoli, and the Tuileries, Paris.
Photo: William Abranowicz, Conde Nast Traveler

by Wendy Perrin

"We leave May 29 for five days based in the Latin Quarter," writes TravelGal. "I've been in Paris only once before, 25 years ago, so we have five weeks' worth of things we'd like to see and do. With so many enticing options, it is possible that we'll be the only tourists to visit Paris and NOT visit the Louvre! Any tips on the latest fabulous things to see, do, or eat?"

Rent this wheelchair-accessible vehicle to get around Paris.
Photo: Ptitcar.com

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Barrett Johnson:

"I'm helping an elderly aunt and two adult cousins plan their first trip abroad in June to France. Do you know how to rent a wheelchair for two weeks? My aunt is bringing her walker and can't also transport a wheelchair from the U.S. They arrive and depart from Charles de Gaulle and need the wheelchair at the airport."

Christophe Molitor of Ptitcar can help. He rents out wheelchairs, as well as wheelchair-accessible vehicles with or without a driver. His wheelchair and scooter rentals cost up to 10 euros per day (almost $15, at the time of this post), and he'll bring your family from the airport into the city for 140 euros. His driver can take you on excursions to places like Versailles and Normandy, with prices ranging from 245 euros to 2,650 euros. Monsieur Molitor's Web site will soon be available in English, but in the meantime you can email him at christophe@imediatservices.com.

The view from one of villa rental agent Annie Flogaus' Paris apartment rentals.
Photo: Just France

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Nad39:

"I seem to have misplaced your recommendations for an apartment rental agent in Paris. Would you be kind enough to give me that information?"

What you're looking for is Wendy Perrin's Worldwide Guide to Affordable Villa Vacations, which appeared in Conde Nast Traveler's June issue. For Paris, we'd recommend Annie Flogaus of Just France. She has a separate website expressly for apartments in the City of Light. They come in a wide range of prices, and most require at least a week's rental. Happy hunting!

I shot this while transiting through Charles de Gaulle Airport near Paris, France, June 22, 2007.

by Wendy Perrin

You wonder why I love the blogosphere?  It's the immediate and invaluable feedback.  Example: I post a question about how to get a response from an airline that's totally ignoring you ("The Mystery of The Missing Miles"), and who should stop by to solve the problem ("Delta Reinstates Missing Miles!") but Mark Ashley of Upgrade: Travel Better?   Another example:  I post a question about AmEx Membership Rewards ("Surprise Fee For Redeeming Miles"), and who should swing by with the answer but frequent-flier expert Randy Petersen -- founder of THE essential tools for road warriors, WebFlyer and FlyerTalk -- followed by Gary Leff, who keeps all of us mileage junkies in the know with View From The Wing? 

Clearly some very savvy travelers are reading The Perrin Post and generously offering their input.  So I'm gonna take advantage of the wonderful resource that this presents and throw out one more travel problem that has me stumped.  Can any of you with your ear to the ground shed some light on it?

My friend Sally and her husband Bob -- totally competent travelers and well-organized, upstanding people  -- were flying Air France from Charles de Gaulle to Boston last week (Friday, July 13).  They arrived at Air France check-in at 9:15 a.m. -- four hours before their flight -- and were shown to a boarding-pass machine by a female Air France employee. Bob inserted his passport into the machine (which scanned it), then filled out on the touch-screen the additional info requested (country of origin, address, date of birth, place of birth, etc.)  Then came Sally's turn.  While she punched in her info, two uniformed Air France aides hovered around, looking over her shoulder.  After the process was completed, the machine spat out six documents that Bob and Sally collected: two boarding passes, two itinerary receipts, and two passenger manifest information sheets.  Bob took his boarding pass, and an Air France aide rushed him to the luggage-check area.  Another aide grabbed Sally's papers AND HER PASSPORT, and they rushed after Bob. Given that the flight was not until 1:15 p.m., and there were no lines, the Air France aides seemed to be rushing them unnecessarily.

The luggage-check guy had Sally put her suitcase on the conveyor belt, and the aide plunked Sally's papers down on the counter in front of him.  Sally suddenly realized she did not have her passport in her hand, nor was it on the counter with the rest of the papers. No one but Air France employees had spoken to her or touched all those pieces of paper, and no other passengers were nearby.  If the passport had been dropped, Sally says, an Air France employee would have noticed. "I can only conclude," she says, "that the Air France employees conspired in some fashion to distract us and take my passport.  There was no place to lose it.  I suspect the two women and the luggage check-in guy."

Paris, France is now blanketed by free Wi-Fi hotspots.
Photo: Josh Koppel Productions

by Brook Wilkinson

Good news just came over the bloglines from Travel Horizons, a blog written by travel planner David Ourisman of Sterling Brownell Travel. Ourisman reports that Paris is now covered with Wi-Fi hotspots, free of charge thanks to the city's socialist mayor. 260 new access points have just come online, so that you can log on from parks, museums, libraries, and other public places throughout the city. Want to stay connected next time you're in Paris? Log on to the city's website to find these new free hotspots.

By Beata Loyfman

In case you've been too busy tracking Lindsay Lohan's whereabouts and various states of inebriation, we'd like to remind you that another starlet is trying to steal the public eye. Saucy Desperate Housewife Eva Longoria and NBA star Tony Parker will marry tomorrow -- July 7, 2007 -- at Vaux-le-Vicomte, a 17th-century chateau 34 miles southeast of Paris.

The bad news: we're not invited to the festivities.

The good news: the estate is open to everyone.

Take the convenient Chateaubus Shuttle from Melun Station in Paris and 20 minutes later you'll feel like Marie Antoinette. Wander the estate's grand ballrooms, have lunch and tea at L'Ecureuil, then check out the rooftop views. For an especially romantic occasion, visit on a Saturday (until October 6) from 8pm to midnight when the whole place is covered in candles. Tres jolie! Check out the full schedule and directions here.

Aside from tomorrow's celeb-studded occasion, you can visit the Vaux-le-Vicomte anytime between March and November. And if, like Parker and Longoria, you're testing your luck at the altar (or the casino) on 7/7/07, let us know how things turn out. Are lucky sevens really lucky?

Some people go to Montreal because it feels like Paris. Others go there in order to get to Paris.
Photo: Reimar Gaertner, World of Stock

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Cadcats:

"Our son's high school graduation gift is a visit to Paris. He is over 18 and has a U.S. passport, but will be flying in and out of Montreal for a number of reasons. Will there be any complications, any troubles at the border or airport? Do the new U.S.-Canada regulations make this sort of trip more difficult?"

I didn't think there'd be any problem with this itinerary, but given all the complications of border crossings lately, I wanted to check with a Canada expert just to make sure. So I asked Mary Pyle Peters, whom Wendy and I recommend on Conde Nast Traveler's annual list of the world's best travel specialists. Here's what she said:

In September, the crowds have thinned but it's still warm enough to hit the beach or sit outside at a cafe in Gunduliceva Poljana Square in Dubrovnik, Croatia.
Photo: Digital Vision, Getty Images/Conde Nast Traveler

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Psbex:

"Wendy, your April 2007 Iconic Itinerary for Moscow and St. Petersburg was amazing! So well thought out and researched. I was planning to go this September, but based upon your article I will now go next April or May. I am also planning a December/January journey to Egypt. I saw that Egypt will be one of the trips you will feature in the coming months, but am concerned that if I wait to make arrangements, things will be booked since that is high season. Have you published anything similar to the Moscow/St. Pete article on Egypt that I can access now?

"In the meantime, I'm looking for a new place to go this September. What areas of the world would be perfect to visit then? We love ancient ruins, architecture, museums, prehistoric sites, etc., and one of us has heart disease, so no scuba diving or rappelling!"

Psbex, I hope you haven't booked anything for Egypt yet, because Conde Nast Traveler's editor-in-chief, Klara Glowczewska, strongly recommends traveling there in May, June, or early July in her Iconic Itinerary. Yes, it's hot, but it's also far less crowded than December.

As for where to travel in September, Wendy and I put our heads together on this one.

The Deux Chevaux, manufactured by Citroen from 1948 to 1990, is an oh-so-French way to tour Paris.
Photo: 2cvsrus.com

What's the best way to make friends with the French quickly? Show up in one of their most beloved automobiles, the Citroen 2CV or Deux Chevaux. Second best? Stuff a baguette under your arm and hop on a bike. Read on for easy ways to arrange either mode of transport.

If you're heading to the City of Light (and I know at least some of you are this summer, and others farther in the future), consider booking Viator's "Private Secret Paris Tour by Citroen 2CV."  Viator CEO Rod Cuthbert just tried out the tour himself and gave it a glowing review on the company's blog. Wendy's a big fan of Rod and his company, an online travel agency that books all manner of day tours, excursions, and activities in more than 450 cities worldwide.

The London Eye ferris wheel is a great option for families sightseeing in London.
Photo: Keith Levit Photography, World of Stock/Conde Nast Traveler

By Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Agnesting:

"I'm 5 weeks away from departing for a vacation to London and Paris. We are a party of 7 (4 adults and 3 teenagers) and had to make a last-minute change in our destination. Is there a travel agent you recommend who can do both countries on such a short notice?  It's the kids' first trip to Europe and we want to make it memorable and unique rather than canned . . . Help!"

Don't fear, Agnesting, we're here for you! I'd suggest that you contact Kay Merrill of Are We There Yet? in Larkspur, California. Wendy and I have crowned her a family travel specialist in  Conde Nast Traveler's annual list of the world's best travel specialists. She can definitely help you find the best hotels and activities for your group in England and France. Here are a few bits of advice from Kay:

That's some birthday candle -- or I.M. Pei's glass pyramid outside the Louvre in Paris, France.
Photo: Julien Capmeil, Conde Nast Traveler

By Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Kellycress:

"My twin sister and I will be celebrating our 40th birthday in January 2009. We spent our 21st birthday in Paris so we love the idea of inviting our closest girlfriends to help celebrate our 40th there as well. We hope to have a group (up to 14) who would like to join us for 5-7 days in late January. We would like to find a small hotel where we could all stay together. Do you have any suggestions? Are there discounts available for flights and hotel stays if you are in a group of this size? We would prefer a hotel in a great location with lots of charm."

There's no bad time to go to Paris, in my book! And so smart of you to start planning well in advance. To answer your questions, I turned to Howard Lewis of ProTravel International, a France expert whom Wendy and I have named to Conde Nast Traveler's annual Top Travel Specialists list. Here's his advice:

Peter Greenberg and I took time out from the ILTM conference for lunch today.

By Wendy Perrin

Today I met up with Peter Greenberg, travel editor of NBC's "Today" show, at the historic Carlton Hotel's brasserie. As usual, we swapped travel war stories and tips. I told him to check out Mardin when he goes to Turkey for New Year's and the Hermitage Museum's storage rooms when he goes to St. Petersburg in February. He told me how to tour the island ports on my upcoming cruise and where to do my Christmas shopping (Bangkok).  Most of all, though, we talked about the pumpkin soup.

Brook Wilkinson, also from Conde Nast Traveler, joined us for lunch.

The amazing soup, which arrived atop pumpkins, was filled with chunks of chestnuts and served with foie gras ravioli.

Brook Wilkinson of Conde Nast Traveler and Nina Wennersten of Hippo Creek Safaris on the Rue d'Antibes earlier this evening.

By Wendy Perrin

After a long, LONG day spent meeting dozens of travel planners--tour firms, travel agents, villa rental companies, hoteliers, cruise lines--who've come from all over the world for the annual ILTM conference, our faces hurt from all the smiling and chatting.  I asked Nina Wennersten, a safari specialist on our annual list of the world's best travel planners, to join the Conde Nast Traveler gang for dinner. We nursed our sore jaws and feet with Bellinis and curried lobster at Laffable and toasted the Hotel Martinez's concierge who recommended it.

December in Cannes on France's Cote d'Azur: A pleasant, breezy 60 degrees.

By Wendy Perrin

The conference that my colleague Brook Wilkinson and I are attending here in Cannes didn't start till this evening, so we got to spend most of the day just kicking around.  First we had lunch with Virginia Irurita of Made For Spain, the Spain specialist on my annual list of the world's best travel planners (in Conde Nast Traveler's August issue each year). Virginia just started a blog herself so that her clients can keep up with her as she travels around Spain.

Left to right: Virginia Irurita, Brook Wilkinson of Conde Nast Traveler, Alonso Alvarez de Toledo of Made For Spain, and me at the Horse Croisette cafe.

Afterward Brook and I strolled along the Rue d'Antibes, Cannes' famous shopping street. First we stopped at LeNotre, a gourmet-food boutique and cooking school.

We drooled over LeNotre's pastries . . .

Me (left), my deputy Brook Wilkinson (right), and the remains of our Grand Marnier souffle at La Vignette Haute.

By Wendy Perrin

I just had one of the most memorable dinners of my life.  A bunch of us who are in Cannes for the International Luxury Travel Market drove to Auribeau sur Siagne tonight to dine at an extraordinary castle/farmhouse called La Vignette Haute.

One of La Vignette Haute's entrance rooms leads to . . .

. . .the main dining room.

Charlie (3), Doug (1), and me flying Air France from Paris to JFK, Oct. 2005

By Wendy Perrin

My last post addressed some of the advantages of flying Air France instead of Delta. A couple more advantages are illustrated in the photo above.  Thanks to Air France's seatback video screens and kiddie channel (which kept Charlie entertained), and the cuddly bunny pillow it gives toddlers (and which Doug still sleeps with to this day), I was actually able to get work done at my laptop. Now THAT's a good flight!

By Wendy Perrin

Question from a reader:

"My wife and I have been searching for a cruise that visits the islands off the coast of Spain, France, and Italy. We've had no luck.  Is there a ship of any size that will do the trick?  Thanks."

Great question.  Alas, few conventional cruise lines include more than one such island (if any) in their itineraries, primarily because (1) their ships are too big (the island ports don't have the infrastructure to support a 2,000-passenger vessel's maintenance/supply needs) and (2) the cruise lines can sell more berths if they market bigger-name ports that more Americans have heard of (e.g., Portofino and Monte Carlo, as opposed to Ibiza and Elba).  But DON'T DESPAIR:  I've got a few ideas for you . . .

By Wendy Perrin

Question from a reader:

"Can you recommend a hotel in Paris to accommodate 2 adults and 2 children, ages 12 and 9, for 1 night?  I've made a tentative reservation at the Hilton for 534 Euros, but would prefer a smaller, charming French (non-chain) hotel."

534 Euros?  Yikes!  I don't know what your specific room requirements are, but I can tell you that my favorite small affordable hotel in Paris is a charming, low-key 3-star called the Hotel des Marronniers (pictured at left).  It has an excellent location on a quiet street about a two-minute walk from the St. Germain des Pres metro stop and amid the fun cafes and nightlife of the 6th arrondissement.  Some of the single and double rooms are small (avoid the low-ceilinged ones on the top floor), but there are rooms for 4 on lower floors, and you're staying there only one night.  (The elevator is small too, so you might need to make two trips with your luggage.)  A room with 4 beds costs 250 Euros, including tax.   You can find other Paris hotel options here.

By Wendy Perrin

Question posted by a reader:

"Twenty years ago on a train in Italy, an architecture student told me about a unique hotel in Paris where there are Gothic stone flying buttresses going through the guest rooms. Does this hotel still exist? The name I recall was The Abbey, or L'Abbaye in French."

There is a Hotel St. Merry that has stone buttresses (supporting the adjacent St. Merry's Church) going through Room 9.  It's a tiny hotel, with only 12 rooms on five levels--and no elevator!  Once the presbytery of St. Merry's Church, it dates back to the 17th century. The interior has been updated (of course) but has retained stained glass windows and beautiful woodwork.