Might someone know the answer to this question from sleivas?

"Hello, I'm in Italy for three months and am in need of a car badly but can't seem to find a decent priced one! Since the U.S. dollar stinks! Any ideas? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I thought the car sharing is brilliant, but not certain if it's available here. I'm about an hour out of Florence. Thanks, Susie"

Any ideas from any of you Italophiles?

"Dear Wendy,
I love sunflowers.  Can you tell me when and where in Italy or France one can see the biggest fields of sunflowers?
Thank you, Entropy71"

Any of you flower hounds got any ideas for Entropy?

Here's a reader's question that, unfortunately, I don't have time to answer. Can anyone else help CMarks?

"We are taking a Mediterranean cruise in November! We are flying into Rome - then going to Greece, Turkey, parts of Italy, and then back to Rome. We are going to stay an extra day in Rome and are looking for a decent hotel. I don't know if we should stay near the airport or IN Rome for that extra night. Any hotels you can suggest would be wonderful because looking at them online is a daunting task."

Planning to drive in Italy this year?  It can be pricier than you've banked on.
Photo: William Abranowicz, Conde Nast Traveler

by Wendy Perrin

Since a slew of Perrin Post readers seem to be heading off to Italy this spring and summer, I figure I should share a warning that's come in from a reliable source who spends much of her life there and knows it like the palm of her hand. Italian villa specialist Mara Solomon of Homebase Abroad writes:

"The Italian government has installed sensors and cameras on highways to clock road speed, capturing license plates so that they can remotely charge fines for speeding. Every time you trip the counter, you get a fine. You can get as many as six tickets between Tuscany and Naples. There are two stretches of the A1 in particular to watch out for: the Chianti stretch north of Chiusi toward Florence and the stretch between Naples and the Amalfi Coast. (The up side: The fines have slowed down drivers and reduced highway deaths in Italy.)

We've heard from three parties who traveled with Homebase Abroad last year and, several months later, were hit with charges on their credit-card statements that they did not recognize. The charges make their way onto the renter's credit-card bill via the car rental agency and appear to come in two parts: First, a paperwork processing fee of some 30 euros. Then a fine of 97 euros. These fines show up between one week and six months after a trip.  The Italian government is also cracking down on the fines within historic districts; these begin at 83 euros per infraction."

Good to know. Thank you, Mara, for sharing this information with us.

Would you like a rooftop terrace with that Rome apartment?
Photo: Suzanne B. Cohen & Associates

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader CJK:

"Any suggestions for a Rome apartment rental for a family with kids? We have two boys, ages two and four, and cramming into a hotel room together is just not appealing. We'd prefer a little more (toddlerproof) space, a kitchen, a centrally located neighborhood, and a gentle price (sizable hotel suites/adjoining rooms are very expensive). We will be in Rome in April, for only three nights."

It's hard to find anything that's a bargain in Italy these days, but you're wise to look beyond hotel accommodations for your group. Even families with older kids have a hard time on the continent, because few hotels have adjoining rooms -- in many cases, the parents are left sleeping separately, one with each kid.

Villa expert Suzanne B. Cohen of Suzanne B. Cohen & Associates can help you out. She comes recommended via Conde Nast Traveler's annual list of the world's best villa rental agents, and has a number of apartments in Rome that will fit your family quite nicely. Check out our handy online villa worksheets, which will lead you through the rental process, then give Cohen a call.

A cruise ship arriving in Istanbul, seen from the Dolmabahce Palace.
Photo: Brigitte Lacombe, Conde Nast Traveler

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Mguyor:

"We are flying into Istanbul and out of Rome for a cruise. For both cities, can you tell me how far it is from the airport to the hotel district and from there to the seaport, and recommend a few four-star hotels and perhaps a tour operator for each?"

I sure can. For Istanbul, I'd suggest that you contact Karen Fedorko of Sea Song Tours, who's based in that city (fedorko@seasong.com). She tells me that the following four-star hotels are about 45 minutes from the airport, and 15 to 20 minutes from the port: the Marmara Pera in the Beyoglu district, the Nippon Hotel in Taxim, and the Lamartine in Taxim. Karen can arrange all sorts of things for your precruise stay. In fact, we wrote about the private dinner in the Topkapi Palace's Imperial Room -- which is normally reserved for the prime minister and his guests -- that Karen can set up in Conde Nast Traveler's 2007 Dream List, which you can find in our December issue.

Click below for advice on Italy.

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Mimclf:

"My husband and I are planning a romantic overnight in Venice on May 5, 2008. We'll need a hotel or pension close to everything, as my husband cannot walk far. We're looking for something around $300 per night. What do you recommend?"

Andrea Grisdale of IC Bellagio, one of the few individuals to have been named to Conde Nast Traveler's lists for both the world's best travel planners and the best villa rental agents, has three ideas for you. All  are near the Piazza San Marco, and all are romantic.

Andrea's favorite is the Hotel Ala (shown above), a private home built in the 18th century with a Canaletto painting and a Murano glass chandelier. A superior double room on May 5, 2008, will cost you 210 euros, or $288 (including breakfast), and if you reserve now, you can lock in that rate. Ask for a room with a canal view, and a Jacuzzi if you wish.

Read on for Andrea's other two recommendations.

Off on a Roman holiday?  Think twice before checking luggage at Fiumicino.
Photo: Imagestate, Jupiter Images

by Wendy Perrin

"Baggage Chaos at Fiumicino" is today's headline in Italy's newspapers Corriere della Sera and La Repubblica. Apparently about 10,000 checked bags failed to get loaded onto planes out of Rome this past weekend alone, and sabotage is suspected.

One of Conde Nast Traveler's key on-the-ground contacts in Italy, Brian Dore of travel planning firm Concierge In Umbria, emailed me this morning so I could apprise everyone . . . and, thankfully, he translated the articles for me: 

Seems the president of the Italian Civil Aviation Authority suspects that the baggage-handling machines are regularly sabotaged by workers who, to make their work easier, block the conveyor belts ten times a day. Inside sources claim that the baggage handlers use chewing gum, Coke bottles, and other luggage to cover the sensors and stop the belts so that they can have a coffee, smoke, or chat. The bags are then delayed in their delivery to the aircraft and left behind. Great.

It's easy to take the train from the port of Civitavecchia into Rome
and then catch the subway to the Spanish Steps (above).
Photo: Index Stock Imagery, Jupiter Images

by Wendy Perrin

Question from reader Rosie Lee of Naples, FL:

"What would you recommend as the best (and cheapest) way to get from the port of Civitavecchia into the city? Three healthy, well-traveled, retired ladies on a budget wonder about taking a train (is there one?) into the city, then a taxi to our hotel. The cruise ship charges $85 per person at least."

You're smart to opt for the train rather than pay an outrageous price for a bus ride that will take longer, what with all those cruise passengers being loaded on and off, not to mention the traffic you can hit. As I advised in "Ten Tips For The Perfect Port Call" in Conde Nast Traveler's August issue, research whether you can get a train, bus, or ferry from the pier to the place you want to see.  The train is how I myself got from Civitavecchia into Rome, and back again, during a port call on a Windstar cruise several years ago. The station is an easy walk from the pier . . . as long as you're not lugging a ton of baggage.

Positano clings to a cliff on Italy's Amalfi Coast. Visit this beautiful town while your cruise ship is docked in Naples.
Photo: Jonathan Smith, Lonely Planet Images

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader CRH:

"We are taking a Mediterranean cruise in a few weeks and are disappointed with the shore excursions offered by the cruise line, Holland America. Do you have any recommendations for shore excursions companies that are reputable? We are particularly interested in customizing our experiences in Livorno and Naples. We have a wide age range -- 10-80 years -- and the 80-year-old has some mobility issues (not in a wheelchair, but can't walk far)."

I can't speak highly enough of Andrea Grisdale, whose company, IC Bellagio, arranges travel itineraries, books villas and apartments (Andrea is on Conde Nast Traveler's annual list of the world's best villa rental agents), and organizes cruise shore excursions.

I asked Andrea what she'd recommend for your group in the places you mentioned, and here are her suggestions:

The Leaning Tower and Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta in Pisa, Italy.
Photo: Digital Vision, Getty Images

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Mginfl:

"I have been told that tour buses are not allowed near Pisa and that it is a 2-mile walk from the bus to the city. Is there any provision for handicapped people?"

I do recall having to park a good distance away when I visited Pisa back in 2002; the tower had reopened after renovations to prevent it from leaning too much, so I was lucky to be able to climb up and enjoy the view. I asked Brian Dore of Concierge in Umbria -- an Italy expert on Conde Nast Traveler's list of the world's best travel planners -- for the scoop. (Brian also keeps up a blog detailing his finds around Italy.) Here's what he told me:

"The official line from the Agenzia per il Turismo di Pisa is that there is a place for buses to stop and unload no more than 300 meters from the tower and the Piazza dei Miracoli. They claim that there is a tourist information desk at the drop-off point that can order a taxi for people with disabilities. In practice, however, the bus services that we use say that it is very difficult to drive close to the Piazza with a large bus and that they always book small (16 person or smaller) minivans for transportation into Pisa. Minibuses can drive all the way in.

You can rent Villa Maura, in Positano on the Amalfi Coast of Italy, through Mara Solomon of Homebase Abroad.
Photo: Homebase Abroad

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Paradisepat:

"I reviewed your June 2007 Villa Rental expert list and contacted the various websites, but I found virtually nothing for the Amalfi Coast. Do you know of a villa rental agent in that part of Italy?"

You're right, we didn't list an agent specifically for the Amalfi Coast, but Mara Solomon of Homebase Abroad and Sylvia Jones of Villas and Apartments Abroad both have some spectacular options there. In fact, the villa pictured on the opening spread of "Wendy Perrin's Worldwide Guide to Affordable Villa Vacations" is in Positano: Palazzo Santa Croce (you can read the article online, but you'll have to buy a copy of the June issue of Conde Nast Traveler to see the photo).

Mara has a number of other rentals available on the Amalfi Coast, ranging from 3 to 7 bedrooms. Sylvia's website includes properties in Sorrento, Positano, and on the islands of Capri and Ischia. Either way, I can assure you that you'll be in good hands.

Co-owner Ondine Cohane (right) and me outside La Bandita, November 2006. See la-bandita.com for the post-renovation shots!

by Brook Wilkinson

My close friend Ondine Cohane (a contributing editor to Conde Nast Traveler) and her husband, John Voigtmann, are living the dream. They're about to open their own small hotel in the Tuscan countryside, just outside Pienza. I visited them there last November, when the place was in the throes of major renovation. It didn't look like much yet on the inside, but the views were to die for. (I spent 6 weeks living in Tuscany a few years back and never tired watching the sunset -- it's truly the definition of a painterly landscape.)

Today the place looks much different.

Il Convento di Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, in Puglia, Italy.
Photo: Gentl & Hyers, Conde Nast Traveler

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Marzetti:

"My mother-in-law is planning a trip next May or June to take her 5 children and spouses to visit their family in Southern Italy. Her family is mainly in Nova Siri, Rotondella, and Rocca Imperiale, in the arch of the boot. She wants to be able to host a couple of receptions for all the relatives. Do you know of any villa rentals in the area that would work for a party of 11-12 adults in 5 or 6 bedrooms, something in the mid to upper range, for one to two weeks?"

There aren't many villas in this part of Italy, so I posed your question to the Western Europe expert on Wendy's list of the world's best villa rental agents: Marina Gratsos of Carpe Diem Luxury Travel in London. Here's what Marina has in mind for you:

Siena, in Italy's Tuscany region, is one of my favorite cities in the world. Here, its Piazza del Campo.
Photo: Photodisc Red, Getty Images/Conde Nast Traveler

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Corie:

"We are looking for a small group trip to Italy. We want something active, but not too much. I have already found several options, so how can you tell which ones are good and which we should avoid? Can you make recommendations?"

Richard Turen is a great -- and always honest -- source for all things Italian, so I flipped this question to him. He's the managing director at travel agency Churchill and Turen, has spent years living in Italy, and is one of that country's experts on Conde Nast Traveler's annual list of top travel specialists. (Our readers love him too.) You didn't give Richard a whole lot to go on, and as he told me, "There is really no way to separate the best tour operators from the pretenders using the Internet." But here's what he'd suggest you do:

* "Start by looking at Tauck Tours, an excellent choice in Italy that offers first-class programs from one to two weeks' duration. I particularly like Tauck's regional programs concentrating on Tuscany and Umbria or southern Italy and the Amalfi Coast. Abercrombie & Kent and Travcoa offer some of the most deluxe programs in Italy, but be careful: It might be best to use these deluxe firms in areas of the world where you need their connections. Italy is not one of those areas.

* "Decide if you want to see the "Best of Italy from North to South." I usually don't recommend this, because most travelers end up returning to Italy so you may be better served by a regional tour that does Rome and the South or Florence and Venice and the North. With Italy, the tourist can easily bite off more then he can chew.

Sadly, you'll need a chartered plane to give your dog this level of comfort. If Spot has to settle for coach, check out the great tips at PetFlight. 
Photo: Roman Fleysher at PetFlight

By Tara Kyle

Question from Conde Nast Traveler reader Nina A. in Manhattan:

"I need to fly with my dog to Milan this summer. Can you tell me which airlines allow pets in the passenger cabins or point me toward a comprehensive source of info?"

I'm afraid your dog may have to fly in cargo.  American, Continental, and Delta -- all of which serve Milan and have pet-friendly policies on domestic flights -- do not allow dogs as carry-ons on transatlantic flights. Furthermore, pets brought into the European Union require a Veterinary Certificate.

A good source of info is  PetFlight's index, but be careful: The Pet Incidents section could leave you a little paranoid.  DogFriendly -- which has loads of advice about hotels, dining, beaches and hiking -- offers a basic guide to pet-friendly airlines.

Helen Mirren's new pile, in Italy's Puglia region, is surrounded by fortified stone walls.
Photo: Reuters

By Beata Loyfman

All hail the Queen!
Dame Helen Mirren, perhaps inspired by her regal roles in The Queen and Elizabeth I, has purchased Masseria Matine, a 500-year-old castle in Puglia, Italy's southern heel. She must have read Conde Nast Traveler's 2006 Hot List issue, which featured under-the-radar Puglia. Savvy writer Ondine Cohane still sighs when recalling the region's "unforgettable back-alley no-menu restaurants" and beautiful beaches.

I bet Dame Helen will be aching for some Puglian pasta by the time she returns from her trip to Moscow, where she's making a documentary about her Russky roots. Wait a minute, is it possible that Dame Helen (born Ilyena Vasilievna Mironova) and I are related...? Wendy, did you meet any other Mironovs during your recent trip to Russia? 

Although the idea of owning an Italian castle may seem romantic, the reality is less rosy. Mirren and husband Taylor Hackford will have to invest tons of time and money into renovating the dilapidated palace before they can wander its grounds and pluck grapes off the nearby vineyard.

Luckily, Wendy Perrin has discovered a way to experience castle living without the headaches or monstrous expense. Conde Nast Traveler's annual Worldwide Villa Rental Guide names the agents who have made it past Wendy's rigorous application and interview process (look for this year's list in the June 2007 issue). Here are the Italy experts' (and our) favorite spots for a royal vacation:

Helen Mirren at the Academy Awards, February 25, 2007.
Photo: Jeff Vespa/style.com

 

The Doge's Palace, just off the Piazza San Marco in Venice, Italy.
Photo: Steve Allen, Brand X, Corbis

By Wendy Perrin

Question from reader MarcMehl:

"My wife and I are planning a trip to Italy during Easter vacation from school.  Is there any good way to check what will be open on Easter weekend (April 7-9) in Rome or Venice?  Will museums be closed the Saturday before Easter or the Monday after?"

Whenever I'm headed to any foreign country over a holiday, I check two sites:
1. Bank-Holidays.com, for national holidays when banks and government offices are closed (which does not mean that museums are closed, but is crucial trip-planning info nonetheless). Fri. the 6th and Mon. the 9th are Italian public holidays.
2. What'sOnWhen.com, for colorful local events and festivals that might be fun to attend.

 
By Wendy Perrin

We love feedback!

I just heard from reader Deanna DellaVedova, who wrote to The Perrin Post a couple of months ago requesting advice for staying in a convent in Italy. Deanna was headed to the town of Manopello to trace her family's history. 

At the time, another reader suggested Deanna use the Monastery Stays booking system.  Deanna reports that the system worked like a charm. 

She enjoyed her stay at Santurio Volto Santo and says she's "very happy to have been successful in tracking down [her] family heritage."
The Santurio Volto Santo.

Deanna also sent in snapshots of the bedroom and bathroom at the monastery, which is located in the hills of Italy's Abruzzo region.

It's always great to hear back from readers, so please keep your comments and follow-ups coming! 

St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican, Rome.
Photo: Photos.com, Jupiter Images

By Wendy Perrin

Question from reader Jeffrey Manfredi:

"I am looking for a budget double room for four days in May -- something under $150 --  in either the Vatican or Trastevere area of Rome. I've tried the San Pietrino and Trastevere House, but both are already full.  Any suggestions?"

My favorite tool for finding inexpensive rooms in European cities is Venere.com (which I've written about several times in my Perrin Report column in Conde Nast Traveler: see Finding European Bargains and Travel Resolutions).  For each European city, you can pull up a map, click on a specific neighborhood, and get a list of accommodations there -- everything from luxe hotels to budget B&Bs and pensions. Here are Venere's 2-star choices for the Vatican, in order from highest rated (by fellow travelers) to lowest rated:  Hotel Silla, Hotel Angel, Hotel Lady, Hotel Prati, and Hotel Giuggioli (which is actually rated higher than two of the Vatican's 4-star properties).

Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal, Venice, Italy
Photo: Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal

By Wendy Perrin

"I'm looking for a very nice, reasonably priced hotel in Venice, Italy," writes reader Jdthead.  "Must be within walking distance of St. Mark's Square.  Would appreciate any suggestions."

It's been 15 years since I was last in Venice, which means I can no longer vouch for the relatively cheap yet charming place where I stayed (the Hotel Flora; doubles from $182). So I've asked around the Conde Nast Traveler offices for you.

 
The Piazza di Spagna (or, the Spanish Steps) in Rome  
Photo: Index Stock Imagery, Jupiter Images

By Wendy Perrin

Yesterday's post about Delta eliminating business class on its Cincinnati- Rome route led reader JSG to post this:

"I beg to differ that this is bad news for business travelers. It appears that whilst the entire aircraft is being sold as economy class, the front cabin is fitted with domestic-style business-class seats. These seats are available to those with status on Delta (e.g., its business travelers) while on an economy ticket."

Does JSG work for Delta or something?! Joe Brancatelli of JoeSentMe.com
digs up the real story:

"JSG is wrong and makes the kind of sloppy assumption that dooms arrogant travelers all the time....

View of the 1,000-year-old Pantheon from the Piazza della Rotonda in Rome.
Photo: Imagestate, Jupiter Images

By Wendy Perrin

"Thank you for posting my question about renting an apartment for a single woman in Rome," reader Jedesiree writes back.  "Finding an apartment is not difficult. Finding one with a DSL connection in the historical center of Rome (the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, etc.--not the Vatican) is. Any other agent suggestions?

I encourage you to try any and all of the Italy specialists on my list of the world's best villa rental agents (start with Suzanne Cohen). You could also try reader Lfleit's suggestion of using VRBO, although what if you discover upon arriving at the apartment that the DSL connection advertised by the owner doesn't work?

Am I correct in assuming the reason you want an apartment is that it's more affordable than a hotel? From what I know of the Italian home-rental scene, my guess is that any sufficiently wired apartment in the historical center of Rome will have many more rooms than you need or will want to pay for. Also, if there are Internet-access problems, there will be no staff to help you out. 

If I were in your shoes, I'd choose a small, affordable hotel (as I'm sure you know, such hotels charge lower rates for single-occupancy rooms than for doubles) that is equipped with both DSL and WiFi and is also close to a cybercafe.

Nighttime view of Rome from the Hotel Hassler
Photo: Melanie Acevedo, Conde Nast Traveler/The Pleasure Principal

By Wendy Perrin

What's up with everyone going to Rome?  More strangely, what's up with Delta?!

"Did Delta really eliminate business class on its flights from Cincinnati to Rome?" writes reader Marjdavies.  "Delta.com shows only coach seats available for various May/June dates.  A Delta rep confirms the accuracy of the plane configuration shown on the website:  Rows 1-7 are 2-3-1, rest of plane is 2-3-2.  I'm incredulous."

I was stumped, but I knew who would know, so I forwarded this question to God's gift to business travelers, Joe Brancatelli of JoeSentMe.com. The low-down from Joe:

 
Flying past the Colosseum in Rome
Photo: Rob Kavanagh, Alamy

By Wendy Perrin

"I'm flying from New York to Rome for three weeks, then from Rome to Sicily, then back to the U.S. via the Rome airport," writes reader Jedesiree (whom we already know is seeking a rental apartment for her Roman holiday). "Do you think before flying from Rome to Sicily I could store some of my luggage at the airport? One used to be able to leave luggage in airport lockers, and I've been told this system still exists at Fiumicino. Is this true? Where is it? Would it be safe to leave my bags there for a week?"

The Aeroporti di Roma site says that at Fiumicino there's a "left luggage" room in Terminal C on the ground floor--which is International Arrivals--and it's open every day (7 am - 11 pm). But God only knows if this info is up-to-date or if the room is safe. As someone who's been burned both by strikes in Italy and by inaccuracies on the Internet, I'd take this info with a grain of parmigianno regianno.

St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican, Rome
Photo: Photos.com, Jupiter Images

By Wendy Perrin

"I'm trying to rent an apartment for one person--me, a single woman--in Rome at the end of February," writes reader Jedesiree. "I know Rome fairly well and know I want to stay in the Pigna, Perione, or Ponta neighborhoods (not Trastevere or Prati). Also need an Internet connection. I contacted Rome rentals listed online and so far have found only one apartment."

I'm not surprised. The villa rental agents I know (who rent cottages and apartments too) focus on accommodations for four or more, since most travelers who contact them want to rent for a group. Nonetheless, I e-mailed the amazing Andrea Grisdale of IC Bellagio, one of the Italy specialists on my list of the world's best villa rental agents. She has 2 two-bedrooms and 1 one-bedroom available the week starting February 24. The one-bedroom is close to the Vatican and is small but charming and comfortable; the cost per week is 870 euros.