Conde Nast Traveler Concierge.com
May 01, 2008

How Would YOU Spend the Month of May in Europe?

Schatzker_dailytraveler_6 by Wendy Perrin

If you're Conde Nast Traveler stuntman Mark Schatzker, he of 80 Days Around The World blogging fame, you spend May in Europe becoming a Renaissance Man. Starting today and for the rest of this month, Mark will be attempting a Da Vinci-like mastery of the arts (and a few other disciplines) and blogging about it over at Daily Traveler.  Right now one of Scotland's greatest golf pros is teaching him how to swing a golf club (it's "a lot like swinging an axe into a tree").  Next up: London, where he'll learn the art of horticulture at the city's oldest botanical garden. Then he'll be cooking in Paris under the direction of some of France's finest chefs, taking piano lessons at Vienna's State Opera, studying Italian in Florence, and learning to paint on the shores of Lake Como. "If all goes according to plan," says Mark, "by May 31 I will be brilliant. If not, I'll have spent a lot of money trying." Don't miss it!

October 05, 2007

Bono's Dublin Hotel in Hot Water

Bono_perrinpost_3
From destroying hotel rooms to decorating them, U2 bandmates Bono and the Edge hope their plans for a makeover of The Clarence go down smoother than Irish whiskey.
Photo: AP Photo/Kevork Djansezian

by Beata Loyfman

Cti_logo Two weeks ago I covered the brouhaha over Sting's new burlesque club in New York. Well, this week Dubliners are in an uproar about Bono's plans for the expansion of The Clarence hotel, which he co-owns with fellow U2 rocker the Edge. According to Starpulse, the renovation involves expanding the property into neighboring buildings and adding a glass dome on top of the hotel. They're calling it a "sky catcher" or a "white hovering halo."

What? Is anyone else baffled by this? If you've ever seen a sky catcher, please enlighten me.

Whatever it is, Lord Norman Foster is involved, so you know it won't be boring. But of course, community activists/purists have rallied, claiming that gutting the surrounding Georgian structures will ruin the neighborhood. In a fit of unintentional humor, they claim that these buildings are "individually unremarkable but collectively superb." Thanks for that sound bite goes to The Independent.

More up-to-the-minute coverage on this emotional debate (plus some great deals at The Clarence) after the jump.

Continue reading "Bono's Dublin Hotel in Hot Water " »

September 28, 2007

Beatles Return to Liverpool

Lennon_starr_ono_perrinpost
Can you feel the love? Paul McCartney, Yoko Ono, Olivia Harrison, and Ringo Starr at the first anniversary of the Beatles Love at the Mirage Hotel in Las Vegas, Tuesday, June 26, 2007.
Photo: AP/Jae C. Hong

by Beata Loyfman

Cti_logo What's the first thing that comes to mind when you hear Liverpool? The Beatles, of course. And that's exactly what you'll get when you visit the 2008 European Capital of Culture. The two remaining Beatles, Paul McCartney and Ringo Starr, will headline concerts celebrating their home town throughout the year. Local boys make good!

Ringo will play at the official opening ceremonies in the Echo Arena on January 12, 2008, and Sir Paul will lead a massive multi-artist concert called The Liverpool Sound in the 35,000-seat Anfield Football Stadium on June 1, 2008. The event will honor the city's immense influence on pop and rock music. You can register to purchase tickets for these and other events here.

In addition to being named the European Capital of Culture, Liverpool celebrates its 800th birthday in 2007. Coincidence? I think not.

How to get there and still have enough money for a hotel? Glad you asked. Read on.

Continue reading "Beatles Return to Liverpool" »

September 13, 2007

Planes, Trains, Buses, and Ferries in Europe

Athens_perrinpost
A view of Athens and Lykavittos Hill from the Acropolis.
Photo: Anders Blomqvist, Lonely Planet Images

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader jth163:

"I am helping my daughter plan her honeymoon. She and her fiance will be flying to Munich and then Athens. After several days in Athens, they are planning to use Eurail passes to ferry across to Italy, stopping in Sorrento, Rome, and Venice before taking the night train back to Munich. How can they get from Athens to the ferry at Patras? The Greek rail schedules are confusing; the bus appears faster but is it covered by the Eurail pass? Second, are they okay with Youth second-class rail passes in Italy and Greece, or is the extra money for first-class worthwhile there? Third, the rail trip from Naples to Rome is short. Is there a day trip to add in between to get the most out of the Eurail pass? They are traveling 16 days on a fairly tight budget."

That's a lot of ground to cover in a short time, especially for a honeymoon! Is your daughter sure that she wants to spend that much time on trains and ferries?

If so, they should take the train from Athens to Patras. It's about two and a half hours, which is shorter than the bus and will be covered by the Eurail pass (once you buy the pass, you'll receive a detailed map of the available routes). Since your daughter isn't planning any especially long or overnight journeys, she should be fine in second class. The seats won't recline, and they'll be slightly smaller than in first, but any inter-city train in Europe is better than what you'd find here in the U.S.

If your daughter and her new husband are going to be schlepping bags, I'm not sure that they'll want to get off the train midway between Naples and Rome (an hour-and-a-half trip). But one good option would be Aversa, which is famous for its buffalo mozzarella.

 

September 07, 2007

Exploring Portugal: Porto


In return for climbing the tall bell tower of the
Igreja de Torre dos Clerigos you get sprawling
views of the entire city.

by Beata Loyfman

Cti_logoMy second week in Portugal has brought more surprises and discoveries. I'm now in Porto, the country's namesake and the capital of its famous port wine, and I can't believe that I've never visited this wonderful city before! Besides being a charming historic spot full of friendly locals, beautiful relics, and delicious food, Porto is one of the most affordable cities in Europe -- even with the plummeting dollar.

Here's proof: I'm staying at the Tryp Porto Centro, where I have a large room, daily buffet breakfast, and a parking spot for under $100 per night. The four-star Mercure Porto Batalha is likewise clean, efficient, and affordable. A cab ride to almost anywhere in Porto runs less than $15, and refreshing Super Bock beers are under $2 in every cafe.

But here's the rub: You have to be fit to tackle Porto. The city is a veritable maze of tiny winding streets, most of which are heavily graded and cobblestoned. It's no wonder there are more shoe shops in Porto than Starbucks in New York -- hiking up those hills will break even the toughest soles. But wandering here is part of the fun; it's how I found my favorite restaurant. Ribeira's brand-new Giroflee fuses traditional Portuguese dishes with Asian flavors, and there's a funky art gallery on the ground floor. My tasty three-course dinner for two with a bottle of great local wine and glasses of port cost $80. Not bad, eh?

Dsc02210 

Prosciutto and melon appetizer at Giroflee.

Of course, checking out Porto's famous wines is a must. Find out where, after the jump.

Continue reading "Exploring Portugal: Porto " »

August 31, 2007

Exploring Portugal: Lisbon

Beatalisbon_perrinpost
My first day in Portugal, I explored Lisbon's Praca do Comercio, or Commerce Square.

by Beata Loyfman

Cti_logoToday is only the second day of my 10-day jaunt through Portugal and despite a lack of sleep, but thanks to lots of terrific coffee, I've already visited Lisbon's coolest spot: Castelo de Sao Jorge, an incredible ancient fortress on the highest hill in the city. Here are a few pointers to make the best of your time visiting the Castle:

Lisboncastle_perrinpost
A daredevil at the Castelo de Sao Jorge.

1. Wear comfortable shoes -- Don't cheat by taking a cab. Instead, lace up and hike the steep hills of Alfama, Lisbon's medieval neighborhood. You'll see local life far better than through the windows of a taxi. A welcome side effect is buns of steel.

2. Leave the vertigo at home -- If you fear heights (or are still hungover from the previous night's partying), do not attempt to climb any of the 11 soaring observation towers. The steps are steep, the pathways narrow, and the guardrails flimsy at best. Thrill-seekers, however, are encouraged.

Psyched to visit Lisbon, but don't know where to stay? Click here for the best hotel deal in the city.

Continue reading "Exploring Portugal: Lisbon " »

August 10, 2007

Jazz Beats in Berlin

Berlin_perrinpost
The Haus der Berliner Festpiele sets the stage for Berlin's hottest jazz, theater, and dance performers.

Photo: Burkhard Peter/Berliner Festpiele

by Beata Loyfman

Cti_logo_2 A few weeks back I wrote about Hamburg's "instrumental" role in launching the Beatles. Well, Berlin is doing some launching of its own. Since 1964, JazzFest Berlin has been a venue for progressive American and European jazz musicians. This year's five-day festival is from October 31 to November 4. Organized by the Berliner Festpiele, the event is sure to quench any jazz appetite, with established artists like Wayne Horvitz and Gebhard Ullmann jamming alongside experimentalists Hadouk Trio and Fat Kid Wednesdays.

Can't get to Berlin this fall? Not to worry, MaerzMusik brings contemporary sounds to the city from March 16 to March 25. And if you're into theater and dance, spielzeit'europa presents works from September through January. Die-hard theater fans will want to do Brecht's Schizophrenic Course Through Berlin any time of the year. The Gridskipper tour takes you to sites relevant to visionary playwright Bertolt Brecht.

So what do you get when you combine Berlin's happening art scene, great architecture, international populace, and groovy nightlife? An influx of American celebrities, of course!

Find out who said "Guten tag" after the jump.

Continue reading "Jazz Beats in Berlin" »

August 08, 2007

The Autobahn Is 75 (Years Old, Not MPH)

Autobahn_perrinpost
Day and night, Germany's pioneering superhighway system carries an enormous amount of traffic. Expect congestion more frequently than unfettered top-speed freedom.

Photo: Uwe Lein/the Associated Press

by Stephan Wilkinson

Ppost_logo The first stretch of Germany's legendary high-speed highway system, just 20 kilometers between Cologne and Bonn, opened on August 6, 1932, which makes the Autobahn more than 24 years older than the U.S. Interstate Highway System. Like the interstates, the Autobahn is one of the safest highway networks in the world, despite the fact that about half of its 7,700 miles have no speed limit. 

And I do mean no speed limit. The German company Ruf, which manufactures highly tuned supercars based on the Porsche 911, tests every Ruf on the Autobahn to assure that it will exceed 200 mph. And my friend Csaba Csere, the editor of Car and Driver, to this day vividly recalls a tire blowout in a modified Callaway Corvette on an Autobahn just after the car reached 195 mph. I've routinely done 150 and more on Autobahns . . . and been passed by Ferraris.

There's a stretch of Autobahn approaching Frankfurt from the east where you top a rise and only then can fully see the road ahead. Years ago, I remember it being as black with the marks of skidding tires as the touchdown zone of a JFK runway, for it was where morning commuter traffic backed up, and cars coming over the hill had to lock their brakes. The direct result: German manufacturers developed ABS, antilock braking systems for cars, and it's one indication of how and why the Autobahn system is an inextricable part of Germany's automotive industry.

In the late 1970s, when as a car writer I first visited the BMW factory in Munich, I remember one manager telling me, "In Japan, engineers go to work on the tube. Our engineers come to work on the Autobahn." The Autobahns indeed have a lot to do with the way German cars have long been built: Whether it's a 32-hp 1951 VW Beetle or a 604-hp Mercedes-Benz SL65 AMG, the car needs to be able to run for hours on end with the throttle pedal flat on the floor -- which is how many Germans drive on the Autobahn.

Here's how you should do it:

Continue reading "The Autobahn Is 75 (Years Old, Not MPH)" »

July 31, 2007

Scooter Tours in Europe

Romescooter_perrinpost
You'd be crazy to drive a scooter alongside these natives on Rome's
cobblestone streets, but guided scooter tours will take you through
the nearby countryside.
Photo: Marco Pesaresi, Contrasto, Redux Pictures

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Veloskil:

"We are taking a Mediterranean cruise with our teenagers. We were hoping to rent scooters at some ports and explore that way. Are there guided tours using scooters in Barcelona, Palermo, Naples, Civitavecchia, La Spezia, Marseille, or Villefranche?"

What a great idea, Veloskil! Scooters are an inexpensive, green, and hip way to explore foreign cities. Even better, you'll blend in with the locals. Your itinerary gives you a number of opportunities to sightsee on two wheels:

In Barcelona, Cooltra offers a number of scooter tours. Since their groups need no more than 4 people, your family can customize a tour to see exactly the sights you want at no extra cost. There are also scooter rental agencies in Palermo, Naples, and La Spezia, but they don't offer guided tours so you're best off booking with Andrea Grisdale of IC Bellagio, who can arrange for the scooters as well as an English-speaking tour guide. From Civitavecchia, Paolo Apolloni will take you to his hometown of Segni, outside Rome.

Just one piece of advice, Veloskil: Wear a helmet!

July 27, 2007

Tips for a Mediterranean Drive

Valdorcia_perrinpost
A picture-perfect scene in Italy's Val d'Orcia.
Photo: The Italian Government Tourist Board

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Robynve:

"My husband and I are going to Italy and France for ten days. We will fly into Pisa, drive to Nice, and fly home from Nice. We may also visit Florence. Could you recommend what to see in Tuscany along the route? Also, with the euro being so strong, do you have any ideas about reasonably priced hotels?"

Sounds like a fantastic trip, Robynve! Wendy and I put our heads together with Conde Nast Traveler contributing editor Ondine Cohane, who lives in Tuscany, and here are our suggestions:

Pisa is a touristy town, but the leaning tower is a must. Once you've taken the requisite photos of each of you holding up the tower, head east to Florence. Book tickets for the Uffizi Museum online ahead of time so that you don't have to wait in line. Ondine recommends lunch at Alla Vecchia Bettola, a local foodie institution, and dinner at Teatro del Sale, where you can eat while watching a classical concert or
performance art.

From there, it's not far to the heart of Tuscany, where Ondine and her husband, John, run a fantastic little hotel, La Bandita. It's an excellent base from which to explore the Val d'Orcia, including the hill towns of Pienza, Montepulciano, and Montalcino. And you MUST spend an afternoon in Siena, sipping an espresso in the Campo, gazing up at the Oreo-striped Duomo, and climbing the Torre del Mangia.

Continue reading "Tips for a Mediterranean Drive" »

July 13, 2007

Speeding in the UK: Don't Do It

Speedcamera_perrinpost_2
A speed camera -- common in the U.K. -- nails a lead-footed driver.
Photo: de.wikipedia.org

by Stephan Wilkinson

The Car Traveler on the Perrin PostQuestion from reader SuzR:

"We spent two weeks in May touring Wales, Scotland, and England in a rental car, and I just got a notice from the rental company saying we were caught by a speed camera doing 42 in a 30-mph zone. The rental company charged our credit card 23 pounds [$47] for supplying our information to the police. Will the U.K. police pursue this since we live in the U.S.? Will we have problems next time we visit the U.K. and try to rent a car?"

The short answer is that the cops don't have to pursue this in the U.S., and that no, you won't have problems next time you try to rent a car. But you will pay the fine. (Unless you want to go to England and fight it, which would be silly since speed cameras don't lie.)

Here's why...

Continue reading "Speeding in the UK: Don't Do It" »

June 29, 2007

Sail the Mediterranean in Style

Hollywood star Catherine Zeta Jones glams it up aboard the Louis Vuitton yacht during the 32nd America's Cup sailing competition in Valencia, Spain.
Catherine Zeta-Jones can't contain her fabulousness as she lounges in the Louis Vuitton yacht during the 32nd America's Cup sailing competition in Valencia, Spain.   

By Beata Loyfman

Looking to sail the Mediterranean in style? Try the Titan, a luxurious a 198-foot charter yacht. If you've been following the race for geographical supremacy currently raging on the WHERE'S WENDY? contest, you know that our intrepid leader Wendy Perrin has recently sailed to the Mediterranean shores of Valencia, in eastern Spain.

What you may not know is that Wendy's seaside neighbors were Hollywood royalty Catherine Zeta-Jones and Michael "Lucky Dog" Douglas. The pair joined Prince Albert of Monaco in a VVVIP yacht off Valencia's coast to watch the action of the 32nd annual America's Cup regatta. Hey Wendy, did Catherine invite you on board for a cup of really expensive tea?

If sailing is on your To Do list but you're not married to a celebrity and don't own a small but wealthy republic in the French Riviera, not to worry. We've got the perfect way to exercise your sea legs, after the jump.

Continue reading "Sail the Mediterranean in Style" »

June 27, 2007

Tipping in Morocco and the Canary Islands

Brook Wilkinson talks about tipping in Morocco and the Canary Islands.
After your guide and driver have successfully navigated you
through Djemaa el Fna Square in Marrakesh, how much should you tip them?
Photo: Melanie Acevedo,
Condé Nast Traveler

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader NancyF:

"My husband and I are booked on a transatlantic repositioning cruise in December. We will be taking shore excursions in Morocco and the Canary Islands. I need guidelines for tipping drivers and guides. Also, may tips be given in U.S. dollars?"

Great questions, Nancy. I always make sure to find out the tipping policies before I travel -- give too little and you'll be tagged a stingy American, too much and you risk offending your guides. For some accurate figures, I bounced your question over to Mary Jean Tully of Cruise Professionals, a cruise expert on Conde Nast Traveler's annual list of the world's best travel planners (not only do we like her, our readers rave about her too). Mary Jean is hosting an October cruise aboard the Crystal Symphony with these ports and has arranged private shore excursions for the 70 clients that she'll have on board, so she knew the answers to your questions right away. 

Tipping in both regions is accepted in U.S currency, and is based on the vehicle, not the number of passengers. In Morocco, you and your husband should tip your guide $50 and your driver $20-25. In the Canary Islands, guides expect $30 and drivers $20.

Happy sailing!

June 12, 2007

Barcelona's Sagrada Familia at Risk

Sagrada familia_perrinpost
The Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, Spain.
Photo: Peter Adams, Getty Images

by Brook Wilkinson

I fell in love with the Sagrada Familia on a college spring break trip to Barcelona. I returned a few years ago and was equally awed. So when I read in the New York Times yesterday that the church could be destroyed before it's even completed, I was heartbroken.

And wouldn't you know it, the potential threat is something I've written about on this blog: a new high-speed train from Madrid to Barcelona. One tunnel along the route is set to run under the Sagrada Familia, and some architects warn that this could cause the monument to crack, or even collapse. Digging could begin next spring, though I suspect that the public outcry will cause the Spanish government to rethink their plans.

I've always wanted to take the behind-the-scenes tour of the Sagrada Familia that I wrote about in Conde Nast Traveler's "Fabulous 50." Now I know that I better start saving my pennies . . . .

May 23, 2007

The Best Walking Tours in England

Cotswolds_perrinpost
A walking trip is a great way to explore the rolling hills and stone-and-thatch villages of England's Cotswolds region.
Photo: Country Walkers

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Pam B:

"Wendy, I am an avid traveler and read your articles every month. In your Worldwide Villa Rental Guide last year, you listed Suzanne Cohen as a reliable agent for Italy. We've taken your advice and have rented a villa through her for September. Meanwhile, I am contemplating a walking tour through the Cotswolds. I normally use Tre Laghi for tours, but they have none in England. I don't want to go with Butterfield & Robinson. Can you suggest another good outfitter?"

Sure can. Country Walkers has a 7-day trip in England's Cotswolds, over easy to moderate terrain. If you'd rather be on your own than with a group, travel guru Arthur Frommer recently recommended Footscape on his great new blog. This company in Dorset, England takes care of your accommodations, transports your luggage each day, and gives you detailed walking maps to get yourself from place to place. Happy hiking!

May 22, 2007

Help For Your Family's Summer Vacation

Londoneye_perrinpost
The London Eye ferris wheel is a great option for families sightseeing in London.
Photo: Keith Levit Photography, World of Stock/
Conde Nast Traveler

By Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Agnesting:

"I'm 5 weeks away from departing for a vacation to London and Paris. We are a party of 7 (4 adults and 3 teenagers) and had to make a last-minute change in our destination. Is there a travel agent you recommend who can do both countries on such a short notice?  It's the kids' first trip to Europe and we want to make it memorable and unique rather than canned . . . Help!"

Don't fear, Agnesting, we're here for you! I'd suggest that you contact Kay Merrill of Are We There Yet? in Larkspur, California. Wendy and I have crowned her a family travel specialist in  Conde Nast Traveler's annual list of the world's best travel specialists. She can definitely help you find the best hotels and activities for your group in England and France. Here are a few bits of advice from Kay:

Continue reading "Help For Your Family's Summer Vacation" »

May 04, 2007

An Affordable Way to See Europe

Giantscauseway

Ireland's Giant's Causeway is a must for anyone passing through the island. DreamTrip contestant ddhill13 captured this image of the rock formation.

By Tara Kyle

Two items have me pondering how to get around Europe this summer without blowing the bank. First: Our friends at Gadling remind us it's been 50 years since Arthur Frommer first published Europe on $5 a Day, the budget travel tome that launched countless trips. (A reflection of how times have changed: Frommer's is discontinuing the series this year -- after topping out at a $95 per diem.) And USA Today reports that abysmal exchange rates are discouraging American travel to Western Europe.

Fortunately, for the moderately fit, and moderately flush, a walking tours can actually be an affordable way to really take in a country.

Continue reading "An Affordable Way to See Europe" »

May 01, 2007

Interactive Vienna, Antwerp, Zurich and Amsterdam

Coolcapitals
The welcome screen at Cool Capitals, which lets you digitally explore European cities.

By Tara Kyle

I just discovered Cool Capitals, a trip-planning site with interactive guides to Amsterdam, Antwerp, Vienna, and Zurich (thanks to Gadling for the Cool Capitals tip). Once you select a destination from the departures board, Cool Capitals lets you explore options in areas such as art, shopping, architecture, and nightlife. There are tips in each section, and you can add sights and events to your "travel bucket" -- a planning resource for the next time your feet actually hit the pavement abroad.

Cool Capitals' design is maybe a little too snazzy for its own good -- I got a bit confused navigating back and forth between sections. And I'm assuming that the animated pedestrians, buses, and cars moving in circles within the maps are meant to convey the bustle of each city, but I couldn't shake a weird sensation that ants were crawling around my screen.

Continue reading "Interactive Vienna, Antwerp, Zurich and Amsterdam" »

April 19, 2007

High-Speed Rail Travel in Spain

Spain_train_perrinpost
A high-speed train in the Spanish countryside.
Photo: RailEurope

By Brook Wilkinson

I ducked out of the office early yesterday to attend a press conference on high-speed train routes in Europe, and I left itching to plan a trip to Spain. Why? Because by the end of this year, travelers will be able to hop on a train in Madrid and hop off in Barcelona, 373 miles away, less than 4 hours later -- and just 2.5 hours later, if you wait till late 2008 to make the trip. (Need suggestions for what to see in either city? Readers who still have their June 2006 issue of Conde Nast Traveler can refer to the "graphic narrative" we published on Barcelona, and anyone can read our September 2006 story on Madrid online.)

There could be a hitch, though. I tried to make that very same trip between Spain political and cultural capitals 7 years ago, but a train workers' strike foiled my plans and I had to buy a plane ticket instead -- and no amount of technology can ever stop the logistical-nightmare-inducing scourge of strikes in Europe.

April 07, 2007

Celebrating Easter Abroad

Bilby
He's less cuddly than a bunny, but the Aussies love their "Easter Bilby."
Photo: Queensland gov. EPA

By Tara Kyle

In the spirit of Easter, I thought I'd highlight a few of the stranger ways the holiday is being acknowledged around the world.

Mexico City: The middle and upper classes in landlocked Mexico City typically spend Easter fleeing for the coasts,  but this year the city hosted the grand opening of a fake beach, according to Worldhum.  The idea of a spit of sand alongside a noisy road junction sounds pretty bizarre, not to mention that Reuters reports the government spent $200k on it. But I felt more sympathetic when I read Mayor Marcelo Ebrard's justification: "There are those upset by the artificial beaches. Perhaps they can get to other beaches, but this was built for the majority, and it's free."

Australia: TreeHugger reminds us that in Australia it's time to "get hopping" for the "Easter Bilby." This little furball is sadly endangered, and since 1999 has been the subject of a passionate "Save the Bilby" campaign.

London:  Chocolatier Thornton's built an 860-pound chocolate billboard for Easter week, Jaunted reports, only to watch passersby devour it within three hours of its Tuesday opening.

What are some other Easter traditions you've encountered?

February 07, 2007

Travel w/ Kids to England & Wales

Roman Baths in Bath, England
Roman Baths in Bath, England

Photo: Peter Adams, Getty Images

By Wendy Perrin

"We are planning a trip to the U.K. in May with our 7-year-old son," writes reader SuzR. "Before I had kids, friends told me about staying in castles in Wales.  Can you offer any advice about finding castles that offer kid-friendly overnight accommodations and any other advice on traveling with children in England and Wales?"

I have not yet taken my little whirling dervishes to the U.K. or attempted any overnight castle stays with them (for which the castle people should be very grateful.  Indeed, if I were to take my boys to the Roman Baths above, they'd be splashing and swimming within seconds.)  So I can't speak from experience. But I know two people who arrange fabulous trips for families to England and Wales: Katey Hartwell, one of the England specialists on my list of the world's best travel planners, and Susan McDougal, the Wales specialist.

As for online advice, you'll find some good London tips at the Bootsnall blog Family Travel: See The World With Your Kids.

November 24, 2006

Cruise To Mediterranean Islands

By Wendy Perrin

Question from a reader:

"My wife and I have been searching for a cruise that visits the islands off the coast of Spain, France, and Italy. We've had no luck.  Is there a ship of any size that will do the trick?  Thanks."

Great question.  Alas, few conventional cruise lines include more than one such island (if any) in their itineraries, primarily because (1) their ships are too big (the island ports don't have the infrastructure to support a 2,000-passenger vessel's maintenance/supply needs) and (2) the cruise lines can sell more berths if they market bigger-name ports that more Americans have heard of (e.g., Portofino and Monte Carlo, as opposed to Ibiza and Elba).  But DON'T DESPAIR:  I've got a few ideas for you . . .

Continue reading "Cruise To Mediterranean Islands" »

September 18, 2006

Apartment in Barcelona

By Wendy Perrin

In my last post a reader asked for help with his upcoming honeymoon to the Pyrenees and Barcelona. I forwarded his question about renting an apartment with a good kitchen in Barcelona, near Las Ramblas and the Boqueria market, to Mary Vaira of El Sol Villas, a Spain specialist on my list of the best villa rental agents worldwide.  Mary's suggestions:

"We have a number of apartments that are modern, with updated kitchens, in both the Borne and Gothic areas of Barcelona, although most have two or three bedrooms.  A two-bedroom will run about $200 to $300 per night and up, and a three-night minimum stay is required.

Pedrera Apartment is a nice two-bedroom with a fully equipped kitchen. Catalunya Apartment is a three-bedroom owned by an American and is a 5- to 10-minute walk from the Boqueria. Old City Apartment 1 and Old City Apartment 2 are also three-bedrooms and more expensive.  If any of these interest you, please let me know and I can give you their exact pricing and availability."

Muchas gracias, Mary, for your feedback. I know how tough it is to find small, charming rental homes with modern, fully equipped kitchens in much of Europe.


September 18, 2006

Honeymoon: The Pyrenees & Barcelona

060918_barcelona
Barcelona's Santa Caterina market                   Photo: Lovento.com

By Wendy Perrin

Question from a reader:

"For our honeymoon my fiancee and I want to go to Spain.  I am an avid cyclist and she loves to cook. So we'd like to spend a couple of days riding some of the Tour de France routes in the Pyrenees, then head to Barcelona for a week.  Is it possible to hire a first-rate bicycle near any of the routes?  In Barcelona my fiancee wants to find accommodations with a full kitchen, hopefully near Las Ramblas where I hear there is a great food market.  She'd like to buy the local produce and cook it in the kitchen. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer."

I passed this question along to the best travel agent I know for Spain: Virginia Irurita of the Madrid-based travel agency Made For Spain.  Her response:

"The best area for biking Tour de France routes in the Pyrenees on the Spanish side is La Seu d'Urgell. The bikes available to rent are basic mountain bike