A villa at the Txai Resort, Itacare, Brazil.
Photo: Txai Resort

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Frankvanveenendaal:

"For a family reunion, I am looking for a villa, bungalow, or B&B rental accommodating 16 to 18 people next summer (2009) in Salvador, Bahia, Brazil, at or close to the beach. Any suggestions?"

There aren't a whole lot of villas in Brazil, Frankvanveenendaal, but our South American experts came up with a few ideas for you. Salvador is a big city, so Augusto Simas of Travel Place in Rio de Janeiro recommends that you choose a smaller town along the coast. He likes the Txai Residences, four-bedroom villas at the Txai Resort, in the seaside village of Itacare (about a two-hour fly-and-drive from Salvador). By renting a resort-owned villa, you'll have access to the property's pools, restaurants, spa, and activities. Summer 2009 prices aren't yet available, but you can expect to pay around $2,500 per night for each villa -- and your group will need two.

Read on for more ideas . . .

Would you like a rooftop terrace with that Rome apartment?
Photo: Suzanne B. Cohen & Associates

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader CJK:

"Any suggestions for a Rome apartment rental for a family with kids? We have two boys, ages two and four, and cramming into a hotel room together is just not appealing. We'd prefer a little more (toddlerproof) space, a kitchen, a centrally located neighborhood, and a gentle price (sizable hotel suites/adjoining rooms are very expensive). We will be in Rome in April, for only three nights."

It's hard to find anything that's a bargain in Italy these days, but you're wise to look beyond hotel accommodations for your group. Even families with older kids have a hard time on the continent, because few hotels have adjoining rooms -- in many cases, the parents are left sleeping separately, one with each kid.

Villa expert Suzanne B. Cohen of Suzanne B. Cohen & Associates can help you out. She comes recommended via Conde Nast Traveler's annual list of the world's best villa rental agents, and has a number of apartments in Rome that will fit your family quite nicely. Check out our handy online villa worksheets, which will lead you through the rental process, then give Cohen a call.

How about having this view out your window for six weeks next spring?
Photo: Just France in Paris

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Keithrez:

"I recently lost my job and am going to take this opportunity to see and do all I have wanted. Do you have any advice regarding around-the-world business-class tickets and renting apartments for a period of time in other countries?"

Sounds like a great way to turn lemons into lemonade, Keithrez! I've recommended Airtreks for around-the-world tickets in the past, and they're great at business fares as well. Like this one: $4,620, including taxes, for Los Angeles, Taipei, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Colombo, Bangalore, Frankfurt, Rome, New York, Los Angeles. They'll either find a great deal for you based on the specials that are currently available, or you can tell them which cities you want to visit and they'll figure out how to get you there economically and efficiently. If you want to either use or earn frequent flier miles, take a look at the route maps of the airline you're most loyal to before you start planning your trip.

As for the apartment rentals...

The view from one of villa rental agent Annie Flogaus' Paris apartment rentals.
Photo: Just France

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Nad39:

"I seem to have misplaced your recommendations for an apartment rental agent in Paris. Would you be kind enough to give me that information?"

What you're looking for is Wendy Perrin's Worldwide Guide to Affordable Villa Vacations, which appeared in Conde Nast Traveler's June issue. For Paris, we'd recommend Annie Flogaus of Just France. She has a separate website expressly for apartments in the City of Light. They come in a wide range of prices, and most require at least a week's rental. Happy hunting!

You can rent Villa Maura, in Positano on the Amalfi Coast of Italy, through Mara Solomon of Homebase Abroad.
Photo: Homebase Abroad

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Paradisepat:

"I reviewed your June 2007 Villa Rental expert list and contacted the various websites, but I found virtually nothing for the Amalfi Coast. Do you know of a villa rental agent in that part of Italy?"

You're right, we didn't list an agent specifically for the Amalfi Coast, but Mara Solomon of Homebase Abroad and Sylvia Jones of Villas and Apartments Abroad both have some spectacular options there. In fact, the villa pictured on the opening spread of "Wendy Perrin's Worldwide Guide to Affordable Villa Vacations" is in Positano: Palazzo Santa Croce (you can read the article online, but you'll have to buy a copy of the June issue of Conde Nast Traveler to see the photo).

Mara has a number of other rentals available on the Amalfi Coast, ranging from 3 to 7 bedrooms. Sylvia's website includes properties in Sorrento, Positano, and on the islands of Capri and Ischia. Either way, I can assure you that you'll be in good hands.

Il Convento di Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, in Puglia, Italy.
Photo: Gentl & Hyers, Conde Nast Traveler

by Brook Wilkinson

Question from reader Marzetti:

"My mother-in-law is planning a trip next May or June to take her 5 children and spouses to visit their family in Southern Italy. Her family is mainly in Nova Siri, Rotondella, and Rocca Imperiale, in the arch of the boot. She wants to be able to host a couple of receptions for all the relatives. Do you know of any villa rentals in the area that would work for a party of 11-12 adults in 5 or 6 bedrooms, something in the mid to upper range, for one to two weeks?"

There aren't many villas in this part of Italy, so I posed your question to the Western Europe expert on Wendy's list of the world's best villa rental agents: Marina Gratsos of Carpe Diem Luxury Travel in London. Here's what Marina has in mind for you:

by Wendy Perrin

Question from reader JSHenry76:

"Just read your excellent article on villa rentals and am anxious to do one. We're thinking of renting in Florida next Christmas or February, and I was disappointed to see that the only rental agent listed for Florida is very expensive. Any suggestions for an agency with more affordable villas?  A villa on St. John is also a possibility.  Does the U.S. Virgin Islands specialist you recommend handle St. John as well as St. Thomas?"

If you want something reasonably priced, forget about renting over Christmas!  Prices are at their peak, and the few good-value properties are probably booked by now.

For an affordable rental in Florida, you might try ResortQuest or VRBO.  ResortQuest is not on our list because the only Florida rental agent who has met our exacting criteria is the expensive one you cited: William McClain of Villazzo.  VRBO stands for Vacation Rentals By Owner, which of course means you skip the middleman.

As for St. John, the U.S. Virgin Islands specialist we recommend, Diane Aamodt of McLaughlin Anderson, is our top choice for that island. The photo above is of Rivendell, a villa on St. John that Diane represents.

If you happen to be looking for a beachfront villa that's a good value for your dollar, you might also consider Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands.  Unlike the U.S. Virgins, Virgin Gorda has a large supply of villas located on the beach (the large supply is, of course, what makes them relatively affordable). For a Virgin Gorda rental, try Hunter Butler at Blue Escapes.  Happy villa hunting!

Charlie and friends he made during our villa stay in Jamaica in January. The students attend St. Mary's Prepatory School in Montpelier, St. James Parish.

by Wendy Perrin

Remember that trip to Jamaica I made with my family last winter?  You may recall that I rented a house, but I never did tell you that it was the best-value Caribbean villa I'd found after weeks of research. The purpose of the research, and of road-testing the villa, was to write the article that just came out in our June issue: Wendy Perrin's Worldwide Guide to Affordable Villa Vacations.  Want to learn more about the house, the staff, the beach-resort access that was included in the rate, and my family's experience of "the real Jamaica" that tourists rarely see?  We've put up a slide show too. Enjoy!

Doug (3) and Charlie (then 4) on the villa's pool terrace soon after waking up, January 11, 2007.

Helen Mirren's new pile, in Italy's Puglia region, is surrounded by fortified stone walls.
Photo: Reuters

By Beata Loyfman

All hail the Queen!
Dame Helen Mirren, perhaps inspired by her regal roles in The Queen and Elizabeth I, has purchased Masseria Matine, a 500-year-old castle in Puglia, Italy's southern heel. She must have read Conde Nast Traveler's 2006 Hot List issue, which featured under-the-radar Puglia. Savvy writer Ondine Cohane still sighs when recalling the region's "unforgettable back-alley no-menu restaurants" and beautiful beaches.

I bet Dame Helen will be aching for some Puglian pasta by the time she returns from her trip to Moscow, where she's making a documentary about her Russky roots. Wait a minute, is it possible that Dame Helen (born Ilyena Vasilievna Mironova) and I are related...? Wendy, did you meet any other Mironovs during your recent trip to Russia? 

Although the idea of owning an Italian castle may seem romantic, the reality is less rosy. Mirren and husband Taylor Hackford will have to invest tons of time and money into renovating the dilapidated palace before they can wander its grounds and pluck grapes off the nearby vineyard.

Luckily, Wendy Perrin has discovered a way to experience castle living without the headaches or monstrous expense. Conde Nast Traveler's annual Worldwide Villa Rental Guide names the agents who have made it past Wendy's rigorous application and interview process (look for this year's list in the June 2007 issue). Here are the Italy experts' (and our) favorite spots for a royal vacation:

Helen Mirren at the Academy Awards, February 25, 2007.
Photo: Jeff Vespa/style.com

The beach at Caneel Bay, St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands.
Photo: Caneel Bay Resort.

By Wendy Perrin

Question from reader Jmsangel:

"We are looking to get married in an intimate 3- to 5-star boutique resort on an island in the Caribbean.  The wedding attendance should be around 40, so we'd like to keep the room rate reasonable or have accommodations nearby for those on tighter budgets.  Do you have any suggestions?  The ceremony could be at the hotel or at another scenic spot on the island."

This seven-bedroom villa on the island of Brac off Croatia's coast sleeps 14.

By Wendy Perrin

Question from Conde Nast Traveler subscriber P.Divine:

"Can you suggest a good travel agent for a group of 10 adults planning to visit the Dalmation coast in September for one week?  We would like to rent a villa for the week, and will drive from Vienna."

May I come along?!  Seriously, that is one terrific-sounding trip, and I'm very jealous.  I've dreamed for a long time of driving through Slovenia and am dying to return to Croatia (I was in Dubrovnik, Hvar, and Split back in '98; I drove there from Sarajevo, so holler if you need any Bosnia driving advice.)

I suggest you contact Charla Cusinato at HomesAway, which is expanding into Croatia and is very careful about vetting properties there.  I like HomesAway because each of its villas comes with a "local host"--an English-speaking resident of the area who will introduce you to the local community and troubleshoot for you--and because its "house books" (the binder you find at the house upon arrival or are given in advance by the rental agent) are loaded with invaluable insider information about the region.  I have great trust in the company's professionalism and customer service because Maija Palkienen, Charla's colleague whom I recommended in my list of the best villa rental agents last year, has done a superlative job for Conde Nast Traveler readers. Bon voyage, and let me know how it goes.

Before your trip, if you would like to keep up with politics and analysis of other news developments in the Balkans, I recommend surfing the Croatia-based Neretva River blog.  You can also find beautiful photography and some fascinating insight into the region at this blog of an American UNDP worker in Albania.  Among the contradictions the writer cites in her Top 10 Things to Know About Life in Albania: "I've drank the freshest water I've ever drank from a mountain stream just 100km from the dirtiest smog I've ever inhaled."

Vote for my blog by clicking here.

View of the 1,000-year-old Pantheon from the Piazza della Rotonda in Rome.
Photo: Imagestate, Jupiter Images

Am I correct in assuming the reason you want an apartment is that it's more affordable than a hotel? From what I know of the Italian home-rental scene, my guess is that any sufficiently wired apartment in the historical center of Rome will have many more rooms than you need or will want to pay for. Also, if there are Internet-access problems, there will be no staff to help you out. 

If I were in your shoes, I'd choose a small, affordable hotel (as I'm sure you know, such hotels charge lower rates for single-occupancy rooms than for doubles) that is equipped with both DSL and WiFi and is also close to a cybercafe.

St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican, Rome
Photo: Photos.com, Jupiter Images

By Wendy Perrin

"I'm trying to rent an apartment for one person--me, a single woman--in Rome at the end of February," writes reader Jedesiree. "I know Rome fairly well and know I want to stay in the Pigna, Perione, or Ponta neighborhoods (not Trastevere or Prati). Also need an Internet connection. I contacted Rome rentals listed online and so far have found only one apartment."

I'm not surprised. The villa rental agents I know (who rent cottages and apartments too) focus on accommodations for four or more, since most travelers who contact them want to rent for a group. Nonetheless, I e-mailed the amazing Andrea Grisdale of IC Bellagio, one of the Italy specialists on my list of the world's best villa rental agents. She has 2 two-bedrooms and 1 one-bedroom available the week starting February 24. The one-bedroom is close to the Vatican and is small but charming and comfortable; the cost per week is 870 euros.

Kate Winslet swaps her house in England for one in Los Angeles and meets Jack Black in the movie "The Holiday."

By Wendy Perrin

Question from reader Nikko:

"I have spent the last 25 years traveling as if there were no tomorrow. Along the way I've managed to accumulate a motley bunch of vacation homes (like cheap souvenirs) in some hot and not-so-hot locales. I would like to put some of them to use. Is there such a thing as a villa swap?  If so, can you please list some of these companies? 
                                     Thank you, Expatriotically Homeless"

Dear Expatriotically:
     The best-known company for house swapping is HomeExchange. Have you seen The Holiday, the movie that came out last month starring Cameron Diaz and Kate Winslet?  Their characters use HomeExchange to swap houses. (Or so I'm told by HomeExchange's PR rep; the only movies I have time to see are on planes.)

I assume the house swap in the movie works out well because, according to Contactmusic.com, Cameron Diaz has now invited her co-star to exchange homes for real.

Two other house-exchange organizations to consider: Homelink and Intervac. Good luck!  And let me know how it goes, since one of my beats here at Conde Nast Traveler is villas. In fact, if you're interested in seeing my audio slideshow on renting a villa, click here.

Charlie and Doug "helping" Melvin the gardener at our rental villa

By Wendy Perrin

Sixteen years ago today (January 16, 1991), I was supposed to fly to Vienna for a vacation in Eastern Europe.  That morning the U.S. began bombing targets in Iraq and Kuwait, marking the start of the Persian Gulf War. All flights from JFK to Europe were cancelled, including my Pan Am flight to Vienna. My then-boyfriend and I had already carved out 12 days of vacation time and needed to substitute a new destination. Planes were still operating to the Caribbean, but we weren't lie-on-the-beach types, so we quickly sought a Caribbean island that was not merely a tourist fabrication but was, rather, a real country with a true foreign culture to explore.  Jamaica seemed to fit the bill, so we flew there the next day. We rented a car at the MoBay Airport and spent the next 12 days criss-crossing the surprisingly large and varied island, seeing the lush green jungles and rivers, the mountainous interior, and every coastline. (The undeveloped east coast south of Port Antonio, with its dramatic cliffs, crashing waves, and hidden waterfalls, was my favorite) . . . .

Setting for a friend's wedding on the north shore of Kauai, Nov. 2006

By Wendy Perrin

Question from reader wfd:

"Our son and future wife are looking for a site for a small, family-only beach wedding in April.  They have talked about the Hawaiian island of Maui, but none of us have been there. Any better ideas or specific locales to suggest?"

I have no earthly idea. So I asked my friend Jamie Nelson, a seasoned and savvy traveler who just got married on the Hawaiian island of Kauai last month. Her advice:

"Maui is a terrific choice. In fact, I was the maid of honor in my best friend's wedding last March on a very scenic beach in Maui near Makena. . . . 

By Wendy Perrin

In my last post a reader asked for help with his upcoming honeymoon to the Pyrenees and Barcelona. I forwarded his question about renting an apartment with a good kitchen in Barcelona, near Las Ramblas and the Boqueria market, to Mary Vaira of El Sol Villas, a Spain specialist on my list of the best villa rental agents worldwide.  Mary's suggestions:

"We have a number of apartments that are modern, with updated kitchens, in both the Borne and Gothic areas of Barcelona, although most have two or three bedrooms.  A two-bedroom will run about $200 to $300 per night and up, and a three-night minimum stay is required.

Pedrera Apartment is a nice two-bedroom with a fully equipped kitchen. Catalunya Apartment is a three-bedroom owned by an American and is a 5- to 10-minute walk from the Boqueria. Old City Apartment 1 and Old City Apartment 2 are also three-bedrooms and more expensive.  If any of these interest you, please let me know and I can give you their exact pricing and availability."

Muchas gracias, Mary, for your feedback. I know how tough it is to find small, charming rental homes with modern, fully equipped kitchens in much of Europe.

By Wendy Perrin

This question came in from Conde Nast Traveler subscriber Kathy Sakko:

"Thank you for your great Villa Rental Guide (June '06).  Our next travel destination was not included in your Rolodex, but I wonder if you might have some referrals or tips anyway.  We are going to Cape Town, South Africa, in January.  Is there a company that could find us the perfect luxury villa?"

When my team and I were evaluating villa rental agents in order to produce a list of the best, we found precious few who knew South Africa well.  Indeed, the villa-rental market in that country seems quite limited.  We did, however, uncover several wonderful agents who represent properties worldwide, including some in or near Cape Town.  In order from least expensive to most expensive, they are:

Maxine Harrison of Elysian Holidays
Ian Holmes of Private World Villas
Marina Gratsos of Carpe Diem Luxury Travel