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Sudan is a beautiful land of extremes. I lived through three months without a cloud in the sky. The 120-degree days baked the land into a dusty brown. Then the wet season exploded upon us with windstorms and torrential downpours, awakening dormant vegetation into a verdant palette. The Dinka tribe has lived a delicate balance between these extremes for generations. I saw this child pause among the thousands of food bags dropped by the World Food Program to temper the starvation from a bad harvest. Even as his thin body stands on the cracked earth amongst the unnatural bounty, a dark rain cell unleashes a potentially crop-saving downpour in the distance. There is so much hope in this picture, but with a sense of foreboding at the same time.

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HOPE AND FOREBODING IN SOUTHERN SUDAN
by Jason Cook, Arlington, MA

Jason's Dream Trip
Scuba-diving the South Pacific

My dream trip is truly dream-like. My wife and I visit a world with thousands of creatures all living together—no cages, no fences, no leashes. We bound among them, free from gravity. We're on a psychedelic safari, with a color spectrum designed by circus clowns. Residents look like oversized insects, eight-armed umbrellas, or giant carpets swooping overhead. Shattered relics of a brutal war now sprout multi-colored flowers. Pinch me; it must be a dream!

But this isn't some Willy Wonka fantasy. This alternate reality takes place beneath the waves of the Palau Archipelago. Some vacationers see tropical islands and dream of beach blanket basking. But my wife and my true infatuation lies in the coral canyons and deep blue sea. Our mutual passion for the ocean is one of the reasons we fell in love, and diving Palau has always tempted us, but thus far has been out of reach.

We've imagined swimming in a jellyfish lake, cruising with the mantas, and marveling at the chambered nautilus. We'd observe saltwater crocodiles and glimpse the rare dugong. A live-aboard dive boat would carry us to these far-flung fantasies. My wife and I would take classes in underwater photography, in order to capture the hidden world of the reef for our beach-bound friends.

Above water, we'd kayak through the idyllic rock islands, discover Micronesia's richest flora and fauna, and explore World War II fortifications. We'd spend time off the beaten path, meeting locals and learning about the culture and traditions of this magical country. We'd journey to the outer islands where the traditional body piercing and tattoos are still practiced ritually. Finally, we'd have to hire someone to occasionally pinch us to make sure it all wasn't a dream!

Jason's Travel Tips

• Everyone comes home with photos of their trip to show to their friends, but do you bring photos of your friends to show to those you meet on your trip? It is a great way to communicate with people, even if you don't speak their language. Choose pictures that tell something about you and the place you're from. If you're lucky, they'll share photos with you and you can have a whole conversation without speaking a word.

• Do you like making people smile? If so, bring gum, candy, or learn a few easy magic tricks. They won't take up any space in your luggage and are universally loved by both children and adults, no matter their religion or social class. Stickers work well also for the kids!

• Do you want fast food travel or a sit-down dinner travel experience? The difference is getting out of the car or bus, or better yet, traveling by foot or bicycle. It removes the physical and psychological barriers between you and the place you are visiting, making it easier to strike up conversation, exchange smiles, talk, look into strangers' eyes. The emphasis will become more a sense of exploration than a sense of destination.