Etiquette 101: Russia

It's the biggest, baddest, most billionaire-heavy country in Europe—are you ready for it? How to flirt, drink, and bathe (yes, bathe) in the new Russia

Soviet-era immigrants in the United States are often shocked when they actually make it back to Putin's Russia: Everywhere are status symbols, glitzy sushi joints, and fortunes made and lost with each blip in the price of oil. If it's that hard for former citizens to adjust, just imagine what a kindly Midwestern businessman (or woman) goes through. Russia and Europe can feel like continents separated by a common lineage: Modern Moscow can feel like London but also Dubai, St. Petersburg is Paris with a little Mumbai thrown in, and the vast frontier can feel like the Far East (because part of it is). The disorientation has less to do with architecture than with the little tics of dress and behavior—an effusive toast, a brusque rebuke, an offhand remark, or an exotic spice that lets you know you're not in Denmark anymore. You can have a lot of fun—and do a lot of business—in Russia, provided you bring an open mind, a little backbone, and some patience for a culture, a government, and an economy that sometimes fly high but often lose their footing.

Part I: BUSINESS

Rules of the Business Meeting
"Trust but verify" is one Russian cliché that still rings true—and nowhere more so than in the business meeting. As a foreigner, your value as a colleague and partner is being constantly appraised, from the first firm handshake to the last vodka at the banya. Ilya Merenzon, a Russian-born businessman (and publisher of Russia! Magazine) who splits his time between Russia and the United States, trots out a common Russian expression: "You need to prove that you're not a camel," he says. Camel, in this case, means phony. Luckily, there are some simple ways to make a good first impression.

How to Be Taken Seriously
1. Look Good: Men and women in Russia carry around little sponges to repolish their shoes before entering the office. If you're a man, get a haircut; if you're a woman, get a manicure. A clean-cut appearance is the best place to start. Andrew Paulson, chairman of the media company SUP (which owns LiveJournal in Russia), says, "If you show up at a meeting and you're a little bit relaxed in your dress, there are many people who might assume that you're a driver."

2. Telegraph Your Status: Merenzon remembers meeting a deputy in the mayor's office in Chelyabinsk who told him, "I never start a meeting before seeing what car the person drives. If it's less than a BMW or a Mercedes. . . ." Well, you know. Preferably you'll be sporting at least one Italian label, but if your price range is more Men's Wearhouse than Armani, at the very least accessorize with a nice Hermès tie. Flashy accessories—watches and pens—also help. They will be duly noted.

3. Know Your Patronymics: Do enough research before meeting your contacts to learn not just their first and last names but their father's name, because you will be addressing them only by first name and patronymic (e.g., "Alexander Petrovich," rather than "Mr. Volkov"). This will always be included on their business cards and is the respected form of address. It might take a while to switch to just a first name.