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Copenhagen restaurants
Copenhagen's rarefied aesthetic sensibilities and its constant itch for the new make it Scandinavia's most creative test kitchen. Traditional Danish haute cuisine, heavily influenced by French classicism, was replaced in the 1990s by a heady, often messy embrace of fusion. Torben Olsen led the charge with a series of central-city bistros (starting with Café Ketchup) that defined a new kind of culinary hybrid: Merging café and restaurant and updating Nordic comfort food with global accents, his contemporary Danish brasserie was intended as an all-day (and into-the-night) hangout. The model was so successful that a cadre of Olsen's disciples, saddled with the kiddie-desperado nickname "the Olsen Gang," went on to open their own network of kitchens. More recently, a patriotic focus on Nordic sourcing, a sudden fashion for pared-down brasseries, and a rediscovery of the city's classic smørrebrød kitchens and pastry shops have taken hold. Despite all this busy eating, none of the statuesque natives seem to have gained a pound.
Single-handedly upending Copenhagen's formal, Francophile dining scene, Café Ketchup imposed a revolutionary template when it opened in 2001. One of...more
After seriously contemplating the Nordic root vegetable at Noma, chef Mads Refslund is foraging farther afield to pull together three, five, and seven-course...more
Smørrebrød translates as "open-face sandwich," but once you have piled shrimp on top of crayfish and crowned it with caviar, it hardly deserves such...more
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