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Rome restaurants
Visitors who last came to Rome in the Dolce Vita years will be shocked by the demise of the ultracheap neighborhood trattoria. But there's good news, too: In terms of culinary competence and variety, the contemporary Roman dining scene is as good as it has ever been. Now, for every orthodox trattoria romana there is a new "mozzarella bar," or an Asian-Italian fusion restaurant, or a designer wine bar serving Roman "tapas."
For a quick snack, avoid Rome's uninspiring tramezzini (bar sandwiches, invariably made with white bread). Instead, most alimentari (grocery stores) will make up delicious panini from whatever's behind the deli counter. Or stock up on picnic provisions at an outdoor market such as Campo de' Fiori, San Cosimato, or Testaccio. Pizza is always a good fallback: In the last ten years, the doughier Neapolitan variety has made inroads, but thinner pizza romana is still the locals' first choice. Note that, with a few tourist-oriented exceptions, most pizzerias are open only in the evening. Also, few Romans turn up to dinner before 8 pm. And check that a restaurant is open before you make plans—days off and vacations are taken seriously here.
The "Old Arch" on the Gianicolo hill above Trastevere has established itself as a reference point for Roman gourmets who want to eat well without breaking the...more
Hats off to this new café-restaurant, which is attempting to bring quality catering to touristy Piazza Navona—noted until now both for the beauty...more
Rome's most luxurious wine bar occupies the former courtyard of the 16th-century Palazzo Medici Lante della Rovere, long since roofed over with a Deco-style...more
The original Roman wine bar, Cul de Sac may not look like much inside, but its great position (just around the corner from Piazza Navona), highly prized...more
Good centro storico trattorias are hard to find, and Gino's is no exception: It's tucked away in a tiny cul-de-sac just around the corner from the Camera dei...more
Zì Fenizia, Rome's only kosher takeaway pizza outlet, has changed its name and location. No longer in the Ghetto, it's now a short hop from the Trevi...more
A lively, young crowd packs Gina Eat&Drink for its all-day menu. Speck and Brie sandwiches, pasta e fagioli, and bresaola with shaved Parmigiano and...more
At Il Convivio, imposingly formal decor is matched by impeccable, equally formal service. The three dining rooms are always busy, with a well-heeled, elegant...more
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