Arts + Culture

Asia Undercover

by Christopher R. Cox, Deborah Dunn, and Colin Hinshelwood

Kampot, Cambodia

With its faded French colonial buildings set along the banks of a broad, brackish river, this quiet coastal town seems a backwater lifted straight from a Conrad novel. Until the late nineteenth century, it was Cambodia's primary seaport; at the turn of the twentieth century, the French laid out a proper town. Today, Kampot's faded grandeur and unaffected ambience attract travelers looking for a semblance of old Indochine. The windswept ruins of Bokor, set atop the 3,000-foot escarpment that looms like a green wave above the town, are the chief diversion.

Where to stay: The Rikitikitavi hotel and restaurant has comfortable, simply furnished rooms with all the mod cons, including free Wi-Fi.

When to go: The weather's best from November through March.

How to go: Buses take more than five hours to make the bruising 100-mile trip from Phnom Penh; splurge for a private taxi.

Tel: 855 12 235102
Doubles, $35, including breakfast

Next: Undeveloped Vietnam >

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Information may have changed since date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.



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