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MAINE
From your rocking chair on the front porch of the Beach House Inn, gazing at placid Kennebunkport Beach, you try to put a finger on what's missing. Oh, yeah—it's the swarms of black flies, mosquitoes, and looky-loo tourists. August's hordes have gone home, and you're enjoying a drink before heading to dinner at the White Barn Inn, the Relais & Châteaux sister property to your homey inn. Guess what's on the menu? Lobster spring rolls, chilled pea soup with lobster ice cream, and homemade fettuccini with, ahem, lobster (yes, September is one of the most bountiful months for the crustacean). Tomorrow, you'll drive north to Acadia National Park, where the sea kayaking and hiking trails are wide-open again as park attendance drops. Which means you can enjoy the auburn-tinged leaves nearly all by yourself.
Beach House Inn
Tel: 207 967 3850
Doubles from $209 in September and October
White Barn Inn Restaurant
Tel: 207 967 2321
Acadia National Park
Tel: 207 288 3338
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