AMALFI COAST AND CAPRI, ITALY
That wind blowing off the southwestern shores of Italy? It's the giant sigh of relief emanating from the residents of the Amalfi Coast and the island of Capri, who can finally sip Campari, stroll along the cliffs, and pilot their mahogany-hulled motorboats in peace, now that the August throngs are gone. Get in on the moment by hopping a hydrofoil from Naples to Capri, where sunbathers soak up the lingering September rays at the La Fontelina beach club. After a few nights at the Grand Hotel Quisisana, Hemingway's old haunt on Capri Town's main drag, head back to the mainland and rent a car for the cliff-hugging Amalfi Drive, one of the world's most spectacular roads. You won't have to contend with tourist-generated traffic jams—though the local Mario Andrettis speeding along those cliff edges might give you a fright. Your destination is Ravello and this month's classical-music festival, which includes performances by the Berlin Philharmonic. At night, rest your head at the Hotel Caruso, recently restored to the glamorous standards that once attracted Garbo, Bogart, and Jackie O as guests.

Grand Hotel Quisisana
Tel: 39 081 837 0788
info@quisi.com
Doubles from $442, including breakfast

Hotel Caruso
Tel: 39 089 858 801
info@hotelcaruso.net
Doubles from $970, including two meals daily

Ravello Festival
Tel: 39 089 858 422