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Sicily
Long the domain of fusty grande-dame hotels and package tourists covering well-trod itineraries, the Italian island is experiencing a welcome revival, thanks to a new generation of enterprising hoteliers and the emergence of off-the-beaten-path destinations. Start your trip in the northwest near Trapani, an area of vineyards (some of Italy's best new vintages are now being produced in Sicily), Baroque villages, and cuisine with a North African zing. Then head across the island to Syracuse, arguably Sicily's most beautiful city, with its dilapidated but revitalized mix of Greek ruins and an antique port town. Caol Ishka is a perfect base, a ten-room property with chilled-out contemporary interiors inside an old farm. Take side trips to the village of Noto and the province's capital of Ragusa (the restaurant Duomo there is a required pilgrimage for any foodie). The nearby Vendicari Nature Reserve is a wild stretch of coast that offers a glimpse of what the island used to look like before it became a cheap beach getaway. End your trip in the sexy Aeolian Islands, a relaxed antidote to crowded counterparts like Capri and Porto Cervo. Our favorite is Salina, where you spend your days exploring the small villages by moped and swimming in secluded coves, and where the new Capofaro Malvasia and Resort, pictured, epitomizes unpretentious glamour.
Caol Ishka
Tel: 39 0931 69057
Duomo Ristorante
Tel: 39 0932 651265
Capofaro Malvasia & Resort
Tel: 39 090 984 4330
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