Food + Wine

Summer Seafood

by Jane and Michael Stern


Middendorf's is a wood-paneled eating hall an hour northwest of New Orleans. Situated off Highway 55's access road among ramshackle bait shops and crab stands, it pretty much defies the economics of good location. Still, for decades, pilgrims have come for thin ribbons of fried catfish, brightly spiced Manchac crabs, silky shrimp rémoulade, and breathtaking broiled shrimp bathed in peppery barbecue sauce. The shrimp arrive lined up and ready to eat in a hot metal plate—don't worry, there's enough of that good sauce that you will use plenty of French bread to mop up the last of it long after the shrimp are done. On the side come hush puppies dotted with green and white onions, and for dessert ("I'm so full, but…), how about peach bread pudding?

Highway 55
Manchac, Louisiana
Tel: 985 386 6666
Open for lunch and dinner (10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.); closed Monday and Tuesday

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Information may have changed since date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.



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